The New Northern Central

[DKS]

Dunno, just seems more complicated than it needs to be

[davefoxx]

^ This.  If you're using shelf brackets, you don't need the L-girders.  You could just put an open framework of 1"x2"s over the shelf brackets with lauan plywood and foam on top.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[Philip H]

I'm still stuck at "Ed's building actual benchwork by himself . . . " 

[DKS]

^ This.  If you're using shelf brackets, you don't need the L-girders.  You could just put an open framework of 1"x2"s over the shelf brackets with lauan plywood and foam on top.

This is (almost) exactly what I did for the White River IV. Only difference, I skipped the lauan and went straight to 2" thick foam.

[davefoxx]

This is (almost) exactly what I did for the White River IV. Only difference, I skipped the lauan and went straight to 2" thick foam.

Exactly, @DKS!  The lauan was there to mount switch machines, and it appears that Ed's using 1" foam.

DFF

[wazzou]

^^^

That was my exact suggestion but it was poo pooed as being too much, but is a hell of a lot less complicated than what has been presented by the OP.

[Dave V]

^ This.  If you're using shelf brackets, you don't need the L-girders.  You could just put an open framework of 1"x2"s over the shelf brackets with lauan plywood and foam on top.

Hope this helps,
DFF

Exactly how the HOn3 RGS First District is built!

[CRL]

This is (almost) exactly what I did for the White River IV. Only difference, I skipped the lauan and went straight to 2" thick foam.

Yep... this is all you need with the shelf brackets. Also, don’t use 1x2 laid flat as a stringer. You’re inviting sag that way. Keep the stringers on edge.

This, by the way, is what it looks like without the top.

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[Ed Kapuscinski]

This is (almost) exactly what I did for the White River IV. Only difference, I skipped the lauan and went straight to 2" thick foam.

There are a bunch of reasons that doesn't work.

First, remember, the track is going on 3/4" "cookie cutter" subroadbed that is raised off of the deck. That rules out a flat top. Second, with 1x2s on edge, their edges will not extend past the width of the brackets themselves, which, again, makes attaching risers difficult.

With the L girder approach adjusting and attaching those risers will be easy. The 1x2 stringer along the whole thing is really just there to prevent some foam sag and to allow me to easily piece pieces together.

I haven't seen a good argument for why my approach won't work and while the other suggested ones, while initially attractive, will actually work in my scenario.

[davefoxx]

If the 3/4" cookie-cutter subroadbed is plywood, then your risers can be secured to the 1"x2" open framework.  Your joists can go wherever you need them to attach risers and do not need to be only 16" on center.  And, who says the 1"x2" open framework cannot extend past the front of the shelf brackets?  You just need to build in some blocking to screw the framework to the shelf brackets.  Easy peasy.

We're just trying to reduce the amount of STUPIDLY-EXPENSIVE lumber you will need.

DFF

[LKOrailroad]

I have to agree with CRL. Stringers laid flat will sag over time making their initial installation pointless.

The shelf brackets probably have alternating offset holes drilled for fasteners. That doesn't work for a 3/4" piece of wood. Perhaps create upside down T beams by gluing a length of 1 by whatever to the stringer. Now you have the best of both worlds - board strength and easy fastening.

Or you could double up the stringers that are atop brackets. Two stringers glued and clamped overnight before being placed. Homemade LVL so to speak. I did that in the instances where I couldn't get the bracket to stringer alignment that was needed to use the factory drilled holes.



My roadbed is cookie cutter on risers also. The risers rest on top of 3/4" stringers (crossmembers). Uses only a small amount of wood, a handful of easy-to-drive #6 screws, and is easily disassembled when I want to remove the cookie cutter roadbed. Risers are simply glued onto the roadbed so they stay in the right place when the cookie cutter is taken off. Otherwise, gravity does all the work.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

My roadbed is cookie cutter on risers also. The risers rest on top of 3/4" stringers (crossmembers). Uses only a small amount of wood, a handful of easy-to-drive #6 screws, and is easily disassembled when I want to remove the cookie cutter roadbed. Risers are simply glued onto the roadbed so they stay in the right place when the cookie cutter is taken off. Otherwise, gravity does all the work.

That hardboard "clip" is slick.

Anyway, I knocked together a quick proof of concept yesterday. I like it. Ignore the plywood strips. I didn't have a 1x2 handy for the photo. Since @DKS has been such a hater, I especially enjoyed forcing him to watch 



But knowing that dimensionally this all works for me, I got the rest of the brackets up, which meant that I could then move the giant pile o'crap out of the middle of the room and get it against the wall as it's supposed to be.

[LKOrailroad]

With all due respect, within a short time the 1x2 soft wood will be less than useless installed that way. For the sake of long term flatness please reconsider.

If you are hell bent on using a single longitudinal support, how about a piece of 1/2" black iron pipe? A bit unconventional I admit but consider this: the OD is close enough (0.840" rasp out 0.090"), dirt cheap at big box stores (10' usually less than $15), and most importantly won't sag over time with the bracket spacing you are using.

[Scottl]

Iron pipe is an interesting idea but surely wood is cheaper than that.   What about a metal stud as a longitudinal member under the track?  Lighter, easy to cut, and I think quite strong.

[Scottl]

Thinking outside the box, what about the metal corner beads they use for drywall?  Put those on either side of a longitudinal member and it would give some stiffness.  Lots of shapes that might have more or less strength but all are relatively inexpensive and easy to handle with tin snips.