T-Trak The N scale Pennsy Juniata Division 2.0 - T-TRAK!

[Dave V]

I like the way this is looking, but unfortunately the geometry is incorrect. By using the Kato 481 mm curves, I can maintain the 33 mm spacing with the siding out front (which would go to the edge of the module I'm building). But, the R481 isn't designed for use with the #6 turnouts, so the joints end up not lining up for the passing siding.

Trying to avoid Kato #4s like the plague.

So... If I go this route, I'm going to have to perform some Unitrack surgery. @fifer has lots of great videos out there on how to do this.

Still pondering.

[Point353]

[Dave V]

Yep, familiar with that one... It's clever, but I'm already stretching the limits of realism with the Unitrack in the first place. I think I'm better off trimming an existing piece...the grade-crossing-like center piece would look out of place where they'd need to go.

[delamaize]

I like the way this is looking, but unfortunately the geometry is incorrect. By using the Kato 481 mm curves, I can maintain the 33 mm spacing with the siding out front (which would go to the edge of the module I'm building). But, the R481 isn't designed for use with the #6 turnouts, so the joints end up not lining up for the passing siding.

Trying to avoid Kato #4s like the plague.

So... If I go this route, I'm going to have to perform some Unitrack surgery. @fifer has lots of great videos out there on how to do this.

Still pondering.

I have had luck in the past with disassembling a strait section of unitrack,like 3 or 4 ties from the end, removing a tie width from the removed section, Sliding it back onto the rails, and trimming back the rail themselves. If it was me, I'd just start chopping.

[Chris333]

Simple DKS stuff, get out the razor saw.

[chessie system fan]

Before going to that much trouble, why not play around in Anyrail and see if any of the smaller pieces will fit that space? There are so many lengths available that I bet you can make a combination that works. 

[Dave V]

I'm a hands-on guy... @chessie system fan , LOL, Anyrail would be vastly more trouble for me than grabbing my miter box and saw.

The track on the left is now precisely the correct length:



Easy peasy.

Editor's note: You may notice two cuts across the roadbed instead of just the necessary one. This is part of my "measure once, cut multiple times" laboratory protocol.

[davefoxx]

Editor's note: You may notice two cuts across the roadbed instead of just the necessary one. This is part of my "measure once, cut multiple times" laboratory protocol.

Nothing a little ballast won’t hide.

DFF

[dem34]

If you make your own module, you could probably get away with keeping the feet located in their intended dimensions but just extend the box in the foreground. I had some older test modules that did that.

[Dave V]

If you make your own module, you could probably get away with keeping the feet located in their intended dimensions but just extend the box in the foreground. I had some older test modules that did that.

Whatever future staging yard modules I build, I plan to do that.

But in this case I have the module kits already on hand at the usual depth. The addition of the siding at the front is an after-afterthought.

But, you're right... Maybe I can just add some additional frontage to the benchwork kit...  <thinking>

[Ed Kapuscinski]

A properly sized length of 2x3 would be a ghetto but easy way to do it.

[Dave V]

A properly sized length of 2x3 would be a ghetto but easy way to do it.

Not a bad idea... Well, let me get the thing built first and then I'll see. What's hard to visualize is that at the far end there where the girders are, the track will be a road overpass. So whatever I do I'll have to have that road cut-out. Unless I start the bump-out to the right of the overpass.

[Point353]

Nothing a little ballast won’t hide.

DFF

Looks like a job for grout.

[packers#1]

A properly sized length of 2x3 would be a ghetto but easy way to do it.

Says the man who built a layout on nothing but foam 

This is actually how I’d do it as well. Just pop a few wood screws through and you’d be fine. You could even have it on both sides of the road underpass to model the retaining walls further as well.

[Dave V]

So here's my plan. I'm gonna have to pack these to move back east in about 3 years, so I'm gonna try to keep them standard sizes for now.

When I set this stuff back up back east I can extend the scenery up front relatively easy.  Because...eventually I'll want to include the eastbound station platforms too, and those wouldn't quite fit on the standard module even without the front siding.

So, close to the edge for now, and then extended scenery another date. The only thing I need to figure out is dealing with the turnout for the H&BTM. If I cut it off, it'll be very hard to extend again at a later date. At least the diverging route will be dummy (I'll glue the mech for the straight route and maybe even solder the points).