T-Trak The N scale Pennsy Juniata Division 2.0 - T-TRAK!

[Stolen Moment]

I'm very much not a Ttrak rules lawyer, but can't you just move everything on the module top, the two "main" tracks and all the scenery, back a couple of inches?  The module front would stick out from the rest of the layout, but that'll happen with any of the proposed modifications, wouldn't it?

[arbomambo]

Not a bad idea... Well, let me get the thing built first and then I'll see. What's hard to visualize is that at the far end there where the girders are, the track will be a road overpass. So whatever I do I'll have to have that road cut-out. Unless I start the bump-out to the right of the overpass.

Adding some real estate in the front of the module has been done plenty of times… and probably best done by Craig Laing on his Prince, WV triple module.

[Dave V]

I'm very much not a Ttrak rules lawyer, but can't you just move everything on the module top, the two "main" tracks and all the scenery, back a couple of inches?  The module front would stick out from the rest of the layout, but that'll happen with any of the proposed modifications, wouldn't it?

Yeah, but as you can see I'm already pressed for depth.

It's cool guys, I have a plan.

[chessie system fan]

I'm a hands-on guy... @chessie system fan , LOL, Anyrail would be vastly more trouble for me than grabbing my miter box and saw.

Fair enough.   

For the record, should anyone else not want to do any cutting, it is possible to use stock Kato pieces here. The curve is 20101 and the little pieces are a 20070 (S45) piece plus two S38 pieces.



it's also possible to use the wider 20111 curve plus three S38 pieces.

[Dave V]

Does that still maintain a 33 mm track center?

Also, I have a logo for the modules...

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[chessie system fan]

Yes.  In my example, the piece on the far right is a double track piece used to confirm the correct track spacing.

[PiperguyUMD]

Does that still maintain a 33 mm track center?

Also, I have a logo for the modules...

(Attachment Link)

Nice! Is this something that you'll attach to your modules? I'd thought about doing some WM flavored station type signs for mine, but the first iteration didn't pop like I'd hoped. Interested to see what you come up with.

[Dave V]

I also plan to add PRR style station signs.

What I’ll do is print these on sticker paper and cut them out with an Xacto knife.

I can also add this to coffee mugs and such.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Adding some real estate in the front of the module has been done plenty of times… and probably best done by Craig Laing on his Prince, WV triple module.

Bruce, do you have contact info for Craig Laing? I'm working on an article for a magazine and want to talk about those modules in it.

[arbomambo]

Bruce, do you have contact info for Craig Laing? I'm working on an article for a magazine and want to talk about those modules in it.

Yes, Contact me privately

[Dave V]

Fair enough.   

For the record, should anyone else not want to do any cutting, it is possible to use stock Kato pieces here. The curve is 20101 and the little pieces are a 20070 (S45) piece plus two S38 pieces.



it's also possible to use the wider 20111 curve plus three S38 pieces.

So my rig isn't even 33 mm track spacing...it's a bit more than that. So I was going to order the pieces you listed, but realized that curve is 9.75" radius. I don't know how often I'll be using that siding, but 9.75" might be too tight for me.

[apudelek]

So my rig isn't even 33 mm track spacing...it's a bit more than that. So I was going to order the pieces you listed, but realized that curve is 9.75" radius. I don't know how often I'll be using that siding, but 9.75" might be too tight for me.

Dave, what if you trimmed the diverging end of the #6 back to the molded nail hole underneath the turnout and connected a broader curve to the siding?  I think that's where Mike Fifer cut his turnouts to make a #6 single crossover and I think the concept is similar.  Here's the link:

You might have to modify the curved piece by slicing the roadbed several times to allow it to flex and conform to the 33 track spacing, but it might work.  I understand the potential expense of cutting up a Kato #6 as a significant counter point...

[chessie system fan]

Dave, the 20111 curve fits as well along with three S38 pieces. That's a little wider radius.

[wm3798]

Not sure if you've resolved this issue yet, but as @arbomambo points out, what hangs out toward the aisle doesn't count against you.  I added about 2" to the front of mine to get the flood wall in front of the Cumberland station.  Without it and a bit of the creek, the scene would be less immediately familiar.



Just keep the adjustment screws back where they should be in case you find yourself on a "standard" table situation to line up the bearing points with the other kids.  I used bolts that can be screwed down through the scenery from above with an Allen Wrench.

The yellow circles indicate the accessible heads, and the arrow points to an Allen Wrench deployed in the operation of adjustment.


Lee

[Dave V]

I ordered some R315 15-degree curves (that's 12 3/4" radius) that'll keep me within a few mm of 33, such that no one should notice.

@wm3798 , yep, once I move back east and I don't have to worry about shipping these modules across the country, I'll probably add two inches or so to the front. But that's about three years away.