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It's a hair under 1/4" (5 mm) and it'll be fine when laminated with 4" of foam. It's how I built the Colorado Midland and I've never had warpage. Dimensional is 1x2 (except 1x3 in the L-girders for the peninsula and the yard section). I think a tight 1x2 grid and the 5 mm plywood will do just fine considering it'll be supported by strong brackets. All of the scenery will be lightweight foam and Sculptamold/hydrocal mix and foam rubber rocks. At no point would any segment of this plywood span more than 2' between joists, and I plan to primarily use 18" joist centers.Recall that here in Colorado we have virtually no humidity changes to cause expansion/contraction and the basement is fully climate controlled so the temperature never changes.To be honest I was tempted to forgo the plywood altogether and just mount the foam on the 1x2s but I want to mount frog juicers and turntable controls underneath, and that's easier to do on plywood.
Since your covering it with 4" foam I agree the 1/4" will be fine. Though I`m still not a big fan of dimension lumber and lots of foam, Lightweight Plywood bench work spine is great but does require a lot woodworking skill so I understand why your using dimensional.
I’ve started to test fit parts on the Schnabel car kit. One side started, I’ll try and start the second side today. (Attachment Link)
I have a bunch of early IM PFE and SFRD reefers that came assembled but weigh only a little over 5oz. or about 16 grams, too light to run in train on my mountainous railroad. I've yet to figure out a way to get inside them to add weight as they are glued together tight. Anyone here managed to get inside these without damaging them?Otto K.
NS black instead of CR blue ED ?
Maybe it's PC black?
Otto K: Are the roof hatches separate parts on your reefers? If they are, you could try prying them off, drill a hole if needed, and pour weight in from the top. Glue the hatches back on and the holes are hidden.