Weekend Update 5/13/18

[MK]

First things first, though...  Gotta mount the wall brackets.  These guys can hold 500 lb apiece...mounted into the studs with 2 1/2" #14 machine screws.

I hope you mean sheet metal screws!    Machine screws going into wood won't hold much.

[Dave V]

I hope you mean sheet metal screws!    Machine screws going into wood won't hold much.

Oops, yes, that’s exactly what I meant.   

[brokemoto]

I'm making an NP trailer car out of a Bachmann doodlebug.  I cut off the cab, swapped the ends, and spliced a couple of roof pieces together.  Next is to shorten the chassis.

It appears that there is a cab and pilot on one end of that trailer car.  Did NP put controls into the trailer car and run it with the powered car in push/pull?

That is a nice start to it and it does look much like the NP car.



Here is my trailer car bashed from butting two passenger ends together and putting the whole business onto a MP corrugated car chassis.



[I hate technology.  It will not let me pull the photograph from my gallery and post it here.]

[bnsfdash8]

I've been working on NS 2589, just a plain jane SD70M.

[jpwisc]

I’ve started to test fit parts on the Schnabel car kit. One side started, I’ll try and start the second side today.
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[CodyO]

Sh!t got real today...



First things first, though...  Gotta mount the wall brackets.  These guys can hold 500 lb apiece...mounted into the studs with 2 1/2" #14 machine sheet metal screws.



Looking toward the Ophir townsite...

Is that 1/4" or 1/2" Ply for the top?

If its 1/4" I would suggest you go up to 1/2"

Whats your plan for the dimensional lumber?

[fcnrwy23]

Keep us posted; will be interested to see how it turns out.  Looks like a Shapeways shell as opposed to the Briggs resin kit?

By the way, correct manufacturer's model designation is Dash 8-40CM (quite different from the U.S. version).

Not likely - electrical cabinet behind cab indicates a CN unit (BCOL units didn't have that feature).

Tim

Yes it is a Shapeways print.   The Briggs model is unavailable, and would have come supplied with metal etchings for grilles, handrails, etc...
This Kit did come with Dofasco sideframes.  I would assume that the Atlas Alco trucks would fit?  I don't have a pair of them on-hand to test with the Dash8-40C chassis.  So, I am going with the Atlas "Rockwell" trucks for now.

Yes, the manufacturer's designation is Dash 8-40CM.  But, I will for simplicity be using the "-8 " nomenclature.  Which is what many railroads decided to use, which followed the pattern of the Dash-7 line.

"Paint it BC Rail"
This unit will go into the FCL (Ford City Leasing) fleet and so will be painted into a "prototypical"-like paint scheme, but will be lettered, "FCLX".  I had not the chance to examine the shell fully to see what particular railway may have used it.  After, priming I was going to look at this more closely.   I was leaning toward  either BC Rail or QNS&L (Quebec North Shore & Labrador) like paint schemes.  But, looking at it now.  The "electrical cabinet" pegs it as a "CN" unit.  Since, BC and QNS&L units DID NOT have these..

Been Down this Road before...
I have made a Dash8-40CM/C40-8M before.   Circa 1994 Photo cropped from Kodak Slide film.

Kato U30C chassis covered with a Bachmann Dash8-40CW shell + styrene...


C39-8
Just an hour after my first post yesterday in the day's mail, cometh the Shapeways C39-8..



The "Cab" is IS printed with the body, so the shell is one piece.  In order to get the shell to mate with my Atlas C40-8 Sill.  I just had to modify it, with enlarging two cutouts and removing a few tabs.  The handrailing placement on the Conductor's Side (side in photo) has NO Step-Up behind the cab.  I will have to decide if modifying this feature is worth the effort.  I can easily cutout the Sill portion.  But, it is splicing-in the correct handrails, that is the problem.   This kit also comes with a 'Veneer" of the different doors configuration with the handrail change.  This problem to make it fit, I would have to remove this portion of the Sill as the veneer is the same thickness as of the section it is replacing...

For both the C39-8 and the C40-8M, I have already ordered some parts from Atlas.  The proper fuel tanks, with the "Air Tanks" located at each end from their Dash8-40B line.


I will be taking some of the information in this post and starting a NEW ONE on 3D Printing, So it is easier for others to find.   It will be under the "C40-8M and friends..." Banner..
And it will be located in the Weathering, Detailing and Scratchbuilding forum.

Jerry G.

[coosvalley]

I have looked at the other RailWire categories, but have found nothing dedicated to 3D printing. 

 

[fcnrwy23]

Ok I stand corrected!!   

The new post will be in the......  Weathering, Detailing and Scratchbuilding forum... 

 Hey!  All I know is... Is that A LEAST, I'M HAVING FUN!!! 


Jerry G.

[Dave V]

Is that 1/4" or 1/2" Ply for the top?

If its 1/4" I would suggest you go up to 1/2"

Whats your plan for the dimensional lumber?

It's a hair under 1/4" (5 mm) and it'll be fine when laminated with 4" of foam.  It's how I built the Colorado Midland and I've never had warpage.  Dimensional is 1x2 (except 1x3 in the L-girders for the peninsula and the yard section).  I think a tight 1x2 grid and the 5 mm plywood will do just fine considering it'll be supported by strong brackets.  All of the scenery will be lightweight foam and Sculptamold/hydrocal mix and foam rubber rocks.  At no point would any segment of this plywood span more than 2' between joists, and I plan to primarily use 18" joist centers.

Recall that here in Colorado we have virtually no humidity changes to cause expansion/contraction and the basement is fully climate controlled so the temperature never changes.

To be honest I was tempted to forgo the plywood altogether and just mount the foam on the 1x2s but I want to mount frog juicers and turntable controls underneath, and that's easier to do on plywood.

[coosvalley]

Ok I stand corrected!!   

The new post will be in the......  Weathering, Detailing and Scratchbuilding forum... 

 Hey!  All I know is... Is that A LEAST, I'M HAVING FUN!!! 


Jerry G.

Haha, I knew there was at least one or two threads about 3D printing!

My only advice is spend plenty of time sanding, and then sand some more..

[Scott Lupia]

Very nice, Scott! Out of curiosity, you not using the MT steps??
Otto K.

The steps are part of the Keystone Details frame.

Scott

[Cajonpassfan]

The steps are part of the Keystone Details frame.

Scott

Got it, thanks!
Otto

[Cajonpassfan]

I have a bunch of early IM PFE and SFRD reefers that came assembled but weigh only a little over 5oz. or about 16 grams, too light to run in train on my mountainous railroad. I've yet to figure out a way to get inside them to add weight as they are glued together tight. Lemosteam was nice enough to sell me some useful coated lead balls that can be glued under the floor, see below, and they bring the weight to about 20g or .7oz. This is much better, but still not optimal...
Anyone here managed to get inside these without damaging them?
Otto K.

[coosvalley]

This week I dabbled in HO-..It's hard to get a photo to show it, but it's painted metallic dark green..Both of these 44 tonners have been in my collection for 30 years: