An N-Possible journal

[Sokramiketes]

The Rapido Dash 8-40CM was an undiscovered gem for me.  It runs beautifully out of the box (second run, no traction tires), is slow, is powerful.  So, the Sweet Grass needed one when they were out buying used Dash 8 models. 

Front coupler is a medium in a 1015 style box with thick lid, to clear plow.  Rear is short coupler in same box. 

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[crrcoal]

Anyone done a Bowser N5 variant or a Bachmann NE caboose yet?

[GM50 4164]

I'm attempting to convert the trainworx adapters to NP. I'm currently touring with the medium URX. The adapter is upside down, held together with a screw screwed in from up top. I used a long, thin flat head to remove the screw. Some of the side material from the box was removed to allow lateral movement.

Has anyone else converted these to NP yet? If so, what technique did you use?

[GaryHinshaw]

I have not tried to convert one of these adapters specifically, but I have converted a number of the TWX quad hoppers.  The later runs of those cars were body mounts with a very similar design to the adapter you posted.   I chose to go with a scale box because I didn't want to deal with the (perplexing) screw in the top of the stock box.  I posted the details here (scroll down a little bit), and I think they would work on the adapter as well.

However, if you're able to remove the adapter from the car to access the screw (not possible on the quad hoppers), and if the the coupler height is ok, then the URS conversion seems like a fine option.  Are you having issues with it?

[John]

I've been meaning to post this for a while: Harz Sondericker (one of the gang that took the cross-country journey on the VIA Canadian to Vancouver back in September) found these reusable toothpicks () on Amazon and it turns out they make excellent uncoupling picks:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08QCRB5JX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[Canadian link, but there must be a US counterpart.]  I can't imagine getting one of these anywhere near my gums, but they're great for uncoupling.

Those look like TSA would confiscate them ..

[GM50 4164]

  Are you having issues with it?

I was having issues and I believe it was becase there wasn't enough room in between the ceiling and bottom of the box. I sanded away a little of the ceiling, the raised area you completely removed on yours, to allow for it to move freely.  What did you use to remove the raised area on your cars and how are you securing the  0.08" rod into the hole well enough to allow the drilling of a new hole not to dislodge the glued rod?

[wmcbride]

The Rapido Dash 8-40CM was an undiscovered gem for me.  It runs beautifully out of the box (second run, no traction tires), is slow, is powerful.  So, the Sweet Grass needed one when they were out buying used Dash 8 models. 

Front coupler is a medium in a 1015 style box with thick lid, to clear plow.  Rear is short coupler in same box. 

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for doing these. I have 2 to do and appreciate the guidance.

I remember Rapido had done a recall of sorts on the second run  to send them back to the factory to repair. That made me leery of buying any second-run units. I'm glad yours run well.

[GaryHinshaw]

I was having issues and I believe it was becase there wasn't enough room in between the ceiling and bottom of the box. I sanded away a little of the ceiling, the raised area you completely removed on yours, to allow for it to move freely.  What did you use to remove the raised area on your cars and how are you securing the  0.08" rod into the hole well enough to allow the drilling of a new hole not to dislodge the glued rod?

I realize now that I have one of these conversions on a rapid discharge hopper.  I agree that a slightly enlarged pocket works fine with these kits (as long as the coupler height is ok - the rapid discharge hopper still needs work in that department).  I used a #17 narrow chisel blade, finished off with a flat-end file, to remove the stock material on the right-side part:



To enlarge the hole, I used a tapered pilot bit twisted by hand, and checked frequently to see if the .080" rod would fit.  You want the hole to be very slightly undersize, then hit the hole and the rod with some Bondene or similar and twist the rod in place.  It will be just soft enough to force the fit.  Dab a bit more glue around the joint and let it set for a bit before trimming the rod flush.  So far that has worked on half a dozen hoppers I've done, but in one case I did recently, I went a bit too far with the hole and the fit was loose.  In that case I cut a strip of .020" thick styrene and glued it to the top of the centre sill before gluing the rod.   That worked very well too, and you may want to consider doing that in any case:



Once it is painted and weathered it will be hard to tell there was a boo-boo.  (Those metal weights are a much bigger distraction!)

[sizemore]

Anyone done a Bowser N5 variant or a Bachmann NE caboose yet?

I tried it a few months ago so details are fuzzy. The Bachmann cabeese can take the NP-UR but require trimming the body clip to allow coupler swing. This option ends up lacking the coupler pocket which sticks out on the prototype.

The NP-SB coupler requires milling out the old coupler box and drilling a new screw hole to allow the box/pocket to extend out beyond the walkway sill. Both options are a hair low on the height gauge, it can be shimmed at the bolsters, but due to the design of the bolster it requires offset shim sizes. I ended up printing a .4mm washer, then I discovered the lip on one end/bolster and just sanded the washer down until it looked level. I didn't like how the caboose ended up looking like a 4x4, so went with NP-SC. Still experimenting for the best option.

The S.

[chessie system fan]

And don't forget that the Bachmann caboose has 36" wheels when it should have 33" wheels. That won't affect a boxing glove, but I'm sure that's a big deal for the NP couplers.

[jpwisc]

Now the one I’ve been dreading… TrainWorx 52’6” gondolas… because they are assembled to hide the coupler screw.
I ripped the existing box off
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Shaved the lip off the top of a SBX-201 box and glued it in place around the existing screw. I’ll try another method tomorrow, but this could work.
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It’s a fuzz low, but I can live with it. I’d rather not raise the car up and higher.
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[turbowhiz]

Now the one I’ve been dreading… TrainWorx 52’6” gondolas… because they are assembled to hide the coupler screw.
I ripped the existing box off
(Attachment Link)
Shaved the lip off the top of a SBX-201 box and glued it in place around the existing screw. I’ll try another method tomorrow, but this could work.
(Attachment Link)
It’s a fuzz low, but I can live with it. I’d rather not raise the car up and higher.
(Attachment Link)

Just don’t install the box top… file off the interface on the top of the pivot post. That’s how I did mine, the height is correct. I did go to the trouble of accessing the screws, but it was difficult. I ended up tapping the bolster holes and running a screw in to pop the body off. Just prying off the boxes like you did is the better approach…

[BCR 570]

After attempting a pair of initial conversions, I thought I would try converting my ballast train and use it to test how well my operators fare with the couplers.  Tonight I attempted a conversion of one of my Atlas Hart ballast cars using a pair of parts gifted to me by Gary.  Unfortunately one of the draft gear parts broke so I could only convert one end tonight, but the conversion turned out well and mates perfectly with my Hinshaw-approved gauge:










I believe this is a short shank draft gear in an NP box with no shimming, using the hole I had previously for the MT 905s.

My local hobby shop has received my order for a dozen sets which I will pick up next week, and I can then get to work converting the rest of the train.


Tim

[Sokramiketes]

Thanks for doing these. I have 2 to do and appreciate the guidance.

I remember Rapido had done a recall of sorts on the second run  to send them back to the factory to repair. That made me leery of buying any second-run units. I'm glad yours run well.

Interesting.  I picked up mine from Lombard Hobbies on sale for like $85 each, which seems like a steal.  Maybe it was related to the problems. 

I should note I also filed a bit of the plastic upright behind the coupler to make sure no spring interferance occured. 

[BCR 570]

Thanks to a replacement part from Gary, I have successfully installed a coupler at the other end of the ballast car.  The couplers really make a difference on smaller cars.

Tim