An N-Possible journal

[GaryHinshaw]

I've spent ~75% of my hobby time over the past several months converting to Andrew's fantastic N-Possible couplers.  As I have alluded to elsewhere, I am now fully convinced that wholesale conversion is the right path for my circumstances.   My intention here is to document some of my conversions, which I will attempt to index with a running update of this post.  If you would like to post your own tips or approach to a specific conversion, feel free to do so and I will try to add it to the index as the thread grows.

I'll start with a general overview of how I prepare the parts and assemble a scale box.  As progress and time permits, I'll keep amending this thread.  I hope you find it useful.
-gfh

P.S. I am presently focussed on reliability and quantity.  I have made no attempt to paint or weather the parts yet, nor have I made a serious effort to add the air lines that Andrew provides.  I would especially welcome examples of how to weather the couplers.

P.S.^2 Ed K has copied these posts over to the N-Possible web site.  Nice job Ed!

General tools and tips:
* Tools
* Shank and box assembly
* Andrew's assembly demonstration video
* Andrew's product glossary
Drawings:
* Short, medium, and long shank couplers (dimensions in mm)
* Scale box (sbx) drawings and specifications (dimensions in mm)
* Isometric drawing of universal retrofit in a 1015-style box
* Isometric drawings of forthcoming boxes: LBX, TBX, SBM, SBL
Auto racks:
* Athearn articulated Auto-Max (truck-mount version) (sbx/ss/a)
* Athearn articulated Auto-Max (body-mount version) (urs/ss/a)
* Scale Trains Multi-Max (sbx/ss/b)
Box cars:
* Athearn FMC 50' combination-door box car (urs/ms/b)
* Athearn FMC 50' plug-door box car (urs/ss/b)
* Atlas 1932 ARA box car (sbx/ss/a)
* Atlas Evans double plug door box car (sbl/ls/a)
* Atlas NSC 50' plug door box car (sbx/ss/b) (urs/ss/a)
* Atlas Greenbrier 62' plate F box car (urs/ms/a)
* Aurora Miniatures Greenbrier 62' plate F box car (sbx/ls/a)
* BLMA/Atlas 62' BX-166, BX-177 insulated box cars (urs/ms/b)
* Broadway Limited USRA/NYC steel box car (urs/ss/b)  (see also)
* Deluxe Innovations 1944 AAR riveted 40' box car (sbx/ss/a)
* Eastern Seaboard Models USRE Class X72 Boxcar (urs/ss/a)
* ExactRail Trinity 52' plate F box car (e.g. FBOX) (sbx/ss/a)
* Fox Valley 40' wagon top car (sbx/ss/a)
* Micro Trains PS-1 40' box car (sbx/ss/a)
* Micro Trains NSC 62' plate F box car (sbx/ms/b)
* NARC/PWRS NSC 5092 combination-door box car (urs/ss/a)
* NARC/PWRS NSC 5092 combination-door box car (sbx/ss/a)
* Rapido PC&F B-100-40 box car (urs/ss/b)
* Red Caboose X29 box car (sbx/ss/a), see also (cbx/ss/c)
* Scale Trains Trinity 62' plate F box car (urs/ss/a)
* Wheels of Time 70-ton insulated box car (all styles) (urs/ss/b)
Cabooses:
* Bowser N-5 caboose (sbx-nl/ss/a)
* Centralia Car Shops / Intermountain ATSF CE-1 Way Car (sbx/ss/b)
* Micro Trains wood caboose (kbx-nl/ss/b)
* Prairie Shadows PSC caboose (urs/ls/b)
* Trainworx Rio Grande caboose (urs/ss/b) (comment)
Coil steel cars:
* Atlas 42' NSC coil steel car (urs/ms/a)
Covered hoppers:
* Athearn ACF 4600 hopper (urs/ss/b)
* Atlas Trinity PD 3230 hopper (urs/ss/c)
* Atlas ACF Pressureaide hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Atlas ACF 5700/5800 hoppers (sbx/ss/a)
* BLMA/Atlas Trinity PD 5660 hopper (sbx/ss/b)
* Fox Valley 3000 ft 2-bay hopper (urs/ss/a)
* Intermountain 4550 cylindrical hopper (sbx/ss/a)  (see also)
* Intermountain ACF 4650 hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Intermountain Trinity 3281 2-bay hopper (sbx/ms/a)
* Intermountain Trinity 5161 3-bay hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Kato ACF 2-bay hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Micro Trains ACF 3-bay covered hopper (sbx/ms/a)
* NARC/PWRS NSC 5431 3-bay hopper (urs/ss/a)
* Rapido Procor 5820 4-bay hopper (urs/ms/a)
* Scale Trains P-S 5820 hopper (sbx/ms/a)
* Scale Trains carbon black hopper (urs/ss/a)
Flat cars:
* Atlas 89' ACF flat (urs/ls/a)#
* Athearn F89F flat (urs/ls/a)#
* ESM GSC well car (tbx/ss/b)
* GHQ 53’ AAR flat (sbx/ss/a)
* Micro Trains 61' bulkhead flat (sbx/ss/a)
* Micro Trains 60' flat (urs/ls/b)
* Microtrains DODX 68' 40000 and 41000 series flats (urs/ls/a)
* Rapido NSC 73' centerbeam flat (murs/ms/b)
* Rapido NSC 73' centerbeam flat (cbx/ms/b)
Gondolas:
* Athearn 52' gondola (urs/ss/b)
* Athearn (ex MDC) high side Thrall gondola (sbx/ss/a)
* BLMA/Atlas ACF gondola (urs/ss/a)
* ExactRail 3564 gondola (sbx/ss/a)
* Micro Trains 52'6" Greenville 2494 mill gondola (urs/ms/a)
* Otter Valley NSC scrap gondola (kbx/ms/a)
* Trainworx GS drop gondola (sbx/ss/a)
* Trainworx 52'6" gondola (sbx/ms/b)
Open hoppers:
* Atlas Offset 2 bay hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Atlas Hart ballast hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Bluford Shops 2 Bay Hopper (urs/ss/a)
* Kato Coalporters (sbx/ss/b)
* Tangent quad hopper (urs/ss/a)
* Trainwox quad hopper (truck-mount version) (sbx/ss/a)
* Trainwox quad hopper (body-mount version) (sbx/ss/b)
* Walthers/Atlas ballast hopper (sbx/ss/a)
* Walthers Greenville 100T aggregates hopper (sbx/ms/b)  see also (sbx/ss/b)    see also (sbm/ms/a)
Reefers:
* Athearn 57' FGE Reefer (urs/ls/b)
* BLMA/Atlas Trinity 70' reefer (urs/ms/a)
* Scale Trains Trinity 82' reefer (urs/ms/a)
Tank cars:
* Athearn 13K acid tanker (urs/ss/b)
* Athearn 30K ethanol tanker (body mounts) (urs/ss/a)
* Athearn 33K LPG tanker (body-mounts, all styles) (urs/ss/a)
Well cars:
* Atlas 40' and 53' standalone well cars (urs/ss/b)
* ESM GSC well car (tbx/ss/b)
* Micro Trains 48' Husky Stack well car (urs/ls/b) see also (tbx/ss/a)
Custom cars:
* samusi01 3d printed flat car with 1015 box (urs/ms/a) (includes GSH90, RSH90, JSH90, Thrall 42000, AMF 42000, and many many more)

Diesels:
* Atlas Alco S-2 (sbx/ms/a)
* Atlas GP40 (cbx/ss/a)
* Bachmann 70 tonner (urs/ss/a)
* Intermountain FTs (sbx/ss/a)
* Kato SD40-2 (lbx-thin/ss/c)
* Kato SD70M (lbx-thin/ss/a)
* Kato SD70ACe (tbx/ss/a)
* Kato SD9043MAC (tbx/ss/a)
* Rapido RDC (sbx/ss/a);  Rapido RDC (kbx/ss/a)
* Rapido Dash 8-40CM front: (lbx-thick/ms/a) rear: (lbx-thick/ss/a)
* Rapido SW-1 (urs/ss/b)

Steam:
* Bachmann Alco 2-6-0 (urs/cbx/ss/b)
* Bachmann 2-8-0 pilot (msbx/ms/b)
* BLI Mikado - pilot only (msbx/ss/b)
* Kato GS-4 (sbx/ss/a)
* Key Imports (Samhongsa) NYC L-4B Mohawk (pilot - sbx/ss/a, tender - sbx/ms/a)
* MRC/Model Power 4-4-0 American (front/murs/ss/b)(rear/sbx-nl/ss/a)

Uncoupling tool:
Here is a link to our favourite uncoupling tool: a reusable toothpick (of all things):




Legend (x/y/z):
* x.  urs=retro-fit, sbx = scale box short, sbm = scale box medium, sbl = scale box long, tbx = loco box (no lid), lbx = loco box (thin & thick lids);  msbx = modified scale box, sbx-nl =  scale box, no lid, murs=modified retro-fit, cbx = custom box,
* y.  ss = short shank, ms = medium shank, ls = long shank
* z. degree of difficulty: a=easy, no cutting required,  b=average, minor cutting required,  c=hard, modifications required


# Subject to revision

[GaryHinshaw]

To start with, I'll outline how I prepare the coupler parts for a scale box installation.

1. The basic parts - Shown below are the basic parts of a short shank coupler.  From top to bottom: the centering spring, the knuckle, and the retainer.



I trim the print supports on the head and shaft with an x-acto blade, and I file the support side of each pivot ring with a triangle file.  I swab the parts with a Micro-brush dipped in IPA to clean the filing residue.

2. Apply the spring to the knuckle - Using tweezers, I slip the centering spring onto the boss at the back of the knuckle part.  Make sure the spring is perpendicular to the shaft axis.



Fine-point, curved-tipped tweezers are very useful for gripping the spring during this step.



3. Add the retainer- Press the retainer boss into the other end of the retaining spring.  The split shank parts will typically be widely separated at this point.



4. Eliminate the torsion in the centering spring - It is important that the two shank halves stay aligned when the spring is relaxed.  I "massage" one one of the spring around the boss to eliminate any residual torsion in the spring.  The goal is that the two shank halves stay in line when they're placed on your work mat.



I test this by dropping the assembled coupler onto the mat from about an inch high.  If the parts stay aligned when dropped, you're good.

5. Place the assembled coupler in the box floor - Now put the assembled coupler onto the box floor and take care to center the spring in the splitter so the shank lies in line with the centerline of the box.



6. Snap the box lid in place - The box lid snaps onto the floor of the box, making a tidy integral assembly.



7. (Optional) The hat press fits over the box lid - for cases where you might need the extra thickness and width.



Here is a typical installation of a scale box on a covered hopper.  I'll document specific installs later on.

[learmoia]

I'm about to jump too with 350+ pair..
I need to get a count of lengths appropriate for my fleet and I hope to get the order to Turbo by Monday.. (which is a Canadian Holiday I learned yesterday)

I plan to dig into my 3d Design roots and 3D printing for drop in Tank Car and Covered Hopper instillations as well....

If my ideas pan out, I'd be open to doing both NPossible and MTL boxes.

~Ian

[Jimbo]

Gary, this is great!

I sincerely appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge on these installations as well as tricks and techniques to simplify assembly.

I know that you have been the “beta tester” for @turbowhiz … would the two of you be willing to have him post your installations on his website, for the overall benefit of the N-Possible community who may not necessarily be on The Railwire?

Sincerely,

Jim

[GaryHinshaw]

Definitely.  But I'll leave it to Andrew and his webmaster, Ed, to decide what material is best for that purpose.  Paging @turbowhiz and @Ed Kapuscinski .

[ednadolski]

Here is a typical installation of a scale box on a covered hopper.

Looks like in that one, you had to shave away the integral plastic pocket.   When you document those, could you pls. mention what tools/methods you prefer for that?

Ed

[GaryHinshaw]

^Absolutely Ed.  One of the main reasons for this thread is to document these specific little tips for my future self.

Tools of the trade.  The most useful tools I have found for working with these couplers are shown below.



From L to R:
* Magnifying light (very important for me!!).
* Magnetic screwdriver set.  Mine is the Ifixit Minnow kit.
* M1.2 or 00-90 wafer-head screws.  4 mm is a good length.  Extensive discussion starting here.
* IPA and a micro-brush for cleaning filed parts.  Use appropriate ventilation when filing parts.
* Fine-point, curved-tipped tweezers.  Super useful for almost every step of the process.
* X-acto blades.
* #61 drill (0.039") for drilling pilot holes in plastic.
* Sharp awl for marking/starting holes.
* A selection of small files and other tweezers/cutters.
* A parts tray for organizing small parts.

An essential tool is a modified MTL-1055 gauge.  The scale box with a hat is a drop in place replacement:



Use this on every install to check height and centering performance:

[nickelplate759]

Very helpful!  No tap?  I realize that most steel screws can be self-tapping in soft plastic, but what about metal underframes?

[learmoia]

Hey Gary.. one question.. So I don't have to bug turbo.

On the SBX kits (couplers with a scale box).. Do the boxes get longer with coupler length?

~Ian

[Missaberoad]

Hey Gary.. one question.. So I don't have to bug turbo.

On the SBX kits (couplers with a scale box).. Do the boxes get longer with coupler length?

~Ian

No they are the same boxes. Only change is the drawbar length.

Gary, thank you for documenting your conversation and journey.
I moved house this summer which put a temporary halt to my model railroad endeavors. Placed an order for screws, Time to dig out that box I got from Andrew this spring! 

[GaryHinshaw]

@nickelplate759  - Not yet.  All of the installations I have done to date have been in plastic.  But there are some hoppers and gons in the future that will require tapping into metal. 

@learmoia - No, the scale box is the same for all shank lengths.  See below.

3 Plate F boxcars.  The first examples are all very straightforward: an ExactRail Trinity 52' Plate F car, an MTL NSC 62' Plate F car, and an Aurora Miniatures Greenbrier 62' Plate F car:



The ExactRail example starts with their 2nd generation body-mount version.  I prefer to use the scale box wherever possible; in this case it is straightforward to pry off the existing box leaving a pad and 3 holes behind:



The scale box with a short shank drops in place.  An M1.2 or 00-90 screw will fit nicely in the center hole with no need for tapping:



Note that there is a washer around the truck post.  I think the body-mount cars shipped with this washer, but I'm not sure that was universally true.  In any case, it is ~0.25 mm thick and it is needed to get the correct coupler height, and to match the ride height of the other Plate F cars (as seen in the lead photo).  The cars will run without it if you prefer, but the couplers will be slightly low.

The MTL car is very straightforward: the scale box with a hat and a medium length shank works well.  To make clearance for the centering spring, I had to snip the stirrup piece in two and I had to carve a small wedge of material from the back of the box recess (visible under the spring in the following shot):



The Aurora conversion is also very straightforward.  The existing box is easy to remove (the stock couplers don't work worth a d@mn).  A scale box with a long shank is a drop in place replacement:



In some cases I ended up adding a hat to get a better coupler height.  I'm not sure why the slight variability...  Also, if you don't use the hat, make sure that the lip of the box lid does not interfere with the crossover platform.  This can cause the box to not be level, but the lip is easily trimmed if need be.

[A note on the Aurora trucks: the bolster hole is too small: I reamed it with a 7/64" drill bit.  I also replaced the wheels as the stock ones had a narrow gauge.  I replace almost all of my wheels anyway.]

[learmoia]

Thanks Gary..

So I'm thinking all of my mediums and longs should be ordered as USX (adapter plates for 1015/1016 couplers.)

Then I can mix-match things as I do installs, and develop extended draft gear boxes as needed.

~Ian

[GaryHinshaw]

I would split your purchasing decision into two parts: 1) your selection of shank lengths and 2) your selection of scale boxes vs retro-fit shims.  I went 50/30/20% on S/M/L shank lengths, and 50/50% on scale boxes vs. retro-fit shims.  My length selection has worked out well, but I probably should have gone closer to 60/40 on scale boxes vs. retro-fits.  (I really like the scale box design.)  YMMV.

[Jesse6669]

Gary, don't suppose you have a Z scale car you can do a test installation on?

[delamaize]

Man, These couplers, and the simplicity of install are tempting......
Do I really want to convert everything I have though.