An N-Possible journal

[turbowhiz]

Was there ever a guide for converting these flat cars? I can tell the long shank would fit best and that the spring needs room cleared out, but I'm not quite sure how best to get at it with the tools I have (typical set of Dremel tips.)

They're a fairly straightforward 301-URS conversion. You can use a 201 as well, but based on the prototype pictures I studied the 301 is more appropriate.

The box lid/stirrups press fit in as an assembly, just gently pry them off.

Don't remove the truck, odds are the truck pin will break! (Same applies to the new Gondola too!). Pop the wheelset out for more room, and just use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut a slot for clearance... Be careful not to cut deeper then the bottom of the integrated box of course. I painted it in for cosmetics in this photo but its evident where it gets cut.. Cut up the edge of the box just a hint for maximum lateral travel and remove the URS retainer extension entirely.

Picture of the cuts, from another post with respect to an approach to repairing the broken truck pin: (its cut up the box a little too far in this example, don't have to work up quite as far as I did here)

[peaks]

Production version demonstration; They automatically couple as well as MTL. But they don't slink, which is ideal for slow speed ops if that's your thing.

Pretty amazing, thank you!

[peaks]

Andrew has a youtube channel for his couplers. Here is one of the videos showing the capabilities of the coupler, although the coupler in the video is a pre-production prototype. There are others as well and they show how well they do function in real world situations.

Thank you, for some weird reason I haven't watched that video.

[OrangeAnon]

Excelent, thank you. I don't know why I didn't think of a cutoff wheel; I was looking at all the other grinding bits instead and wondering what angle to approach from 

Here's another simple install for the index, in an Athearn ACF 4600 covered hopper. Short shank universal, much like the other Athearns in this thread it only requires trimming out the back wall of the integrated box. The bolster will pop off if you need more room to get at it.

[GaryHinshaw]

Tim Horton stopped by today to work on some N-Possible conversions.  The first task was to tune up his first conversion, a Micro-Trains PS-1 40' boxcar.  This used a short shank with a scale box plus hat screwed into the existing outer hole of the floor:



The height matches the gauge perfectly if you don't lower the ride height.  There is margin to lower the car if you remove the hat.

Next up was to convert the Rapido RDC to N-Possibles.  Like Andrew, we used a short shank in the upcoming Kato box with a thick lid; the conversion was dead simple:



And while it shouldn't be pulling a box car, the car spacing comes out quite nice with two short shanks:

[BCR 570]

Thanks to Gary for sharing with me his methods for assembling and installing these couplers.  I am still in the evaluation phase, having converted two cars to assess coupling and uncoupling.  We worked on those two cars to improve the mountings and they now perform well.  I then assembled two pairs of loco boxes with short shank couplers for my RDC cars as suggested by Andrew.  Here are a few additional photos of the conversion:










A definite improvement in appearance!  I think that my next step will be to convert a work train for testing with visiting operators.  I want to see that visitors have no issues with uncoupling before committing to a fleet conversion.


Tim

[turbowhiz]

A definite improvement in appearance!  I think that my next step will be to convert a work train for testing with visiting operators.  I want to see that visitors have no issues with uncoupling before committing to a fleet conversion.


Tim

Did Gary set you up with a "titanium toothpick" uncoupling tool? That has been my new go-to, if the couplers are properly setup it works wonderfully. There are links earlier in this thread.

[GaryHinshaw]

^ Yes indeed, Tim has his own set now, and we agree that it seems to be the best uncoupling tool yet (also the most lethal...).

Intermountain ACF 4650 hopper.  A sentimental favourite.  I only have a small fleet of these cars since they are mostly aging out of service these days, but I've had these particular cars for close to 20 years now and I'm finally getting around to putting them in regular service.



The conversion is very straightforward: scale box with a short shank screwed into the floor:



With BLMA/Atlas 100T trucks the coupler height and ride height are good:



That BN car will require a serious fade coat, and the SP and SSW cars will get a bit of everything, weathering-wise.

[Mark5]

Did Gary set you up with a "titanium toothpick" uncoupling tool? That has been my new go-to, if the couplers are properly setup it works wonderfully. There are links earlier in this thread.

Hello, I went through the first 6 or 7 pages of this thread without finding said link before giving up.

Can someone please add the link here (clearly labeled please)? https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=59868.msg825089#msg825089

Thanks! 

[GaryHinshaw]

Great point!  I added the link to the index in the OP.

[cnw780]

Would you also mind sharing a picture of a converted covered hopper from the end?  I am curious how far the screws you are using stick up.

~Tim

[GaryHinshaw]

Sure, here is a shot of the Cotton Belt hopper A end:


 
For reference, the screw is a 3.5 mm M1.2 screw.  You could probably also use a 3 mm screw here just as well.  I am pleasantly surprised with how robust these covered hopper installations are.  I've had no problems with either stripped threads in thin plastic, nor with box twist.

[ednadolski]

I should update the video with the "Titanium Toothpick" uncoupling tool Gary mentioned in this thread, it works better then the skewer/pin demonstrated and is my go-to uncoupling tool now.

/>

It looks to me from the vid that it works by (1) trying to poke (from above) the point of the pick into the slight gap between the 'tip' of one coupler's knuckle and the corresponding 'pocket' of the other coupler, and then (2) push slightly downwards while also tipping the pick slightly to the side (perpendicular to the track centerline).   This forces both couplers to open up so that they then can pop apart.

Seems it should be easier to do if the layout is not too high - a more side-level view might make it a little trickier to poke the point of the pick into exactly the right spot.  It's also easier to see if the couplers are painted a lighter color.

Ed

[Jimbo]

It looks to me from the vid that it works by (1) trying to poke (from above) the point of the pick into the slight gap between the 'tip' of one coupler's knuckle and the corresponding 'pocket' of the other coupler, and then (2) push slightly downwards while also tipping the pick slightly to the side (perpendicular to the track centerline).   This forces both couplers to open up so that they then can pop apart.

Seems it should be easier to do if the layout is not too high - a more side-level view might make it a little trickier to poke the point of the pick into exactly the right spot.  It's also easier to see if the couplers are painted a lighter color.

Ed

I finally figured out uncoupling; you’re right - poking between the couplers seems to pop them open.

One other thing to add… if you tape your pick to a penlight, it’s a LOT easier to see what you’re doing!!

-Jim

[Sokramiketes]

We've been trained to insert and twist for MTL uncoupling.  So it does take a bit of transition to realize it's just an insert and pop. 

After that it's like learning to whistle.  The first noise is hard, then it comes naturally!