An N-Possible journal

[James Costello]

Athearn 57' FGE Reefer - URS Long with supplied Athearn trucks (sound unit so the trucks are wired). Integrated coupler pocket like the BLMA car that got some delicate surgery to expand the coupler pocket. The coupler post is further back on these cars, so the long shank is necessary to clear the cushioned coupler box.

[James Costello]

These 89' flats are works in progress / proof of concept and I've realised I didn't take enough photos of the modified underframe after the Dremel work, so I'll make some tweaks and post more photos then. I had already taken the dremel to the Atlas underframe to help the wheelset clearances, and both these require extensive work to expand the coupler box.

1) Atlas 89' ACF flat - URS Long conversion in existing coupler box. Currently sits too low, so I'll try and raise with a washer and play around with trucks if needed (existing Atlas utilized).



2) Athearn F89F - URS Long conversion in existing coupler box. Currently sits too high, but as you can see, it rides high too. I'll review truck and wheelset clearances, trying filing down the mounting and/or other truck options with the lowered bolster.

[MILWcoastdiv]

Rapido center beam - using Gary's splitter plate design but added a full box with no side notches.  Gary's design is on Tinkercad so it was easy to make the box based on his design.  Will have to paint to match the dozen that I have on order when they arrive.

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[GaryHinshaw]

Nice posts guys.  I have updated the index on p.1 to include these entries.  Let me know if any of the info needs to be corrected.  @James Costello I have had those three boxcars/reefers on my to-do list for a while; I will try your technique on them.  In the meantime I have some of my own documentation to catch up on, starting with:

Atlas 40' and 53' standalone well car
The bolster cover and coupler box lid on this car is a contiguous piece, and the bolster fits very tightly in the under-frame, so it's difficult to remove without damaging it.  Since the coupler box needs additional clearance, I decided to cut the piece in two.  I first used a chisel blade to cut the piece in place a few scale feet outboard of the bolster.  (Don't worry, the metal frame under the part is quite sturdy.)  This will release the coupler box, which I then cut the back off of with the same chisel blade.   I also filed the inside top of the box a little bit to provide extra clearance for the centring spring:



(The skinny pieces in the middle^ can be discarded.)  Sadly, you'll need to mill a bit of metal off the frame to clear the centring spring, but it's fairly straightforward with a Dremel:



Remove enough material so that the URS shim sits flat.  A short shank works well for this car:





The same technique will work with the 40' well cars too.  I replaced the stock 33" wheels with 36" wheels.  I can't really tell which size is correct, but the coupler height is perfect with 36" wheels, so I'm sticking with them.

[thumpernickle]

Has anyone tried installing these in KATO F7s? Any tips for someone who wants to install them in KATO EMD F7s and Alco PAs?

[GaryHinshaw]

^ I don't have any Kato F7s or PAs but I am (eventually) planning to convert an E8, which I suspect is similar.  This will likely best be done with the Kato box that Andrew is soon to release, so maybe worth a wait and see.

NARC NSC 5431 covered hopper
This is my first ever NARC car purchase and I am very impressed with it.  The design and assembly quality are both excellent, as is the painting and lettering.  (I'm probably in a minority here, but I really like the bare-bones simplicity of this CP scheme.)



The conversion is a very straightforward URS retro-fit with a short shank coupler (a medium shank would not be out of place either):



I had to boost the car by about 0.25 mm to get the coupler height correct.  Here is a shot of the car being pushed by one of David Finley's ( @Westcoast_Trains )  beautifully weathered MRL ACEs:

[garethashenden]

The biggest problem with at least the F7s is that even on the most recent models the rear coupler is truck mounted.

[Jimbo]

The biggest problem with at least the F7s is that even on the most recent models the rear coupler is truck mounted.

So is the E8.  So I’m curious about how @GaryHinshaw approaches this…

Thanks to everyone for sharing knowledge!

Jim

[turbowhiz]

Has anyone tried installing these in KATO F7s? Any tips for someone who wants to install them in KATO EMD F7s and Alco PAs?

F units merit a special case couplers; the overall length of the complete assembly needs to be shorter in order to fit and still have a prototypical coupled distance. Since the launch line is setup around 1:1 replacements of traditional MTL couplers, none of the present options are ideal for that application.

The good news is that mechanically my design will accommodate a much shorter overall length than existing designs, so this is very achievable.

The not so good news is that no matter what it’s not going to be a drop in install. The Kato pilot coupler is also problematic… the shell cutout is not prototypically correct, so its likely going to need some enlarging like the MTL conversion kits did. Never less the distinct generational differences on those models too...

Its on high on the backlog.

^ I don't have any Kato F7s or PAs but I am (eventually) planning to convert an E8, which I suspect is similar.  This will likely best be done with the Kato box that Andrew is soon to release, so maybe worth a wait and see.

The E units aren't like the F units. There is a lot more room to work with. The pilot coupler doesn't have the same problem, at least with the examples I have. You can relatively easily chop off the truck mount coupler and mount a locomotive type box (coming very soon) directly screwed into the chassis.

[turbowhiz]

Micro Trains newly released 52'6" Greenville 2494 Mill Gondola

These are a very straightforward medium shank universal retrofit conversion (201-URS). Although its slightly clearance limited on the back, I didn't find any need to mill anything, and there is still lots of lateral motion.

Completely remove the retainer post extension for this install.

The coupler box lids are tightly pressed in; I used a small screwdriver in the coupler slot itself to get them apart.

I didn't every pull the trucks, I just removed the axle. [Warning, based on other's experience and like the 60' flats, the truck pins are super fragile and will likely break if you attempt to remove the truck!]


Completely remove the retainer post extension for this install

[vermonter_railfan]

Here is Rapido's new RDC with Npossible installed. Not sure if it's technically the correct coupler for RDCs but it does look way better than the stock MTLs.

I used the Scalebox Universal Retrofit for this test. Initially I used a short shank and personally I think it looks the best. But I'm not sure if you'd be able to coupler a pair together with the plow installed.





Secondly here is a medium shank to compare length.

[turbowhiz]

Here is Rapido's new RDC with Npossible installed. Not sure if it's technically the correct coupler for RDCs but it does look way better than the stock MTLs.

I used the Scalebox Universal Retrofit for this test. Initially I used a short shank and personally I think it looks the best. But I'm not sure if you'd be able to coupler a pair together with the plow installed.

The phase 2 units couple just fine with two shorts; They even still do crazy 9 3/4 corners too. Now that is with the forthcoming locomotive type boxes, they have more lateral motion then the SBX scalebox parts.


These boxes are coming soon; They're better suited to certain install scenarios vs the SBX scale box parts.

[BCR 570]

The phase 2 units couple just fine with two shorts; They even still do crazy 9 3/4 corners too. Now that is with the forthcoming locomotive type boxes, they have more lateral motion then the SBX scalebox parts.

So I should hold off converting mine until the new loco boxes are released?  What will the SKU be?  These are definitely a candidate fore early conversion as they will run by themselves.


Tim

[vermonter_railfan]

Trainworx Rio Grande Caboose with short shank.  This is my first time using the retrofit kit.

For the caboose it's a fairly straightforward conversion, you will have to cut some of the box away behind the screw hole though to allow the coupler to swing freely. It appears the coupler is slightly short compared to the gauge and normal MTL washers won't fit the truck bolster without modifications. I do have a second caboose and I may try the second with a scalebox conversion to see if it provides any difference.

[vermonter_railfan]

Trainworx GS Drop Gondola

Little bit of a follow up to the Trainworx Caboose because it's now time for the Trainworx GS Gondola. Used the Scalebox and short shank for this conversion. I did have to drill a new 00-99 screw hole about halfway between the molded one and the edge of the car. Otherwise fairly easy conversion.