An N-Possible journal

[wmcbride]

I don't know who would do it, but I wonder if someone [I sound like my dad] might eventually make a guide (with links), like we have for sound installations, for NP coupler installations so a lazy person like me could see what I need for a particular car...

[Missaberoad]

I don't know who would do it, but I wonder if someone [I sound like my dad] might eventually make a guide (with links), like we have for sound installations, for NP coupler installations so a lazy person like me could see what I need for a particular car...

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=59868.msg825079#msg825079

Closer then you think 

[Jimbo]

I don't know who would do it, but I wonder if someone [I sound like my dad] might eventually make a guide (with links), like we have for sound installations, for NP coupler installations so a lazy person like me could see what I need for a particular car...

Umm….  isn’t that exactly what this thread is?   

[Jimbo]

Trainworx Rio Grande Caboose with short shank.  This is my first time using the retrofit kit.

For the caboose it's a fairly straightforward conversion, you will have to cut some of the box away behind the screw hole though to allow the coupler to swing freely. It appears the coupler is slightly short compared to the gauge and normal MTL washers won't fit the truck bolster without modifications. I do have a second caboose and I may try the second with a scalebox conversion to see if it provides any difference.

Are you sure that your height gauge isn’t bottoming out?  I noticed that you’re checking height with it resting on what appears to be Atlas c55 track.

It might be a good idea to check again, but using c80 track, which is what the gauge was designed for.  Your height may not be off after all…

Jim

[vermonter_railfan]

Are you sure that your height gauge isn’t bottoming out?  I noticed that you’re checking height with it resting on what appears to be Atlas c55 track.

It might be a good idea to check again, but using c80 track, which is what the gauge was designed for.  Your height may not be off after all…

Jim

Good call, never honestly thought of that to be honest. It does appear that it did change the height slightly but still slightly lower.

[turbowhiz]

Great call to make some more room here on the URS install! When you do that, also remove the extension post from the retainer shank (so its just like the SBX shank).

I will note that's positively not a N-Possible spring installed! Its easy enough to confuse them possibly with the one that was originally in this car, especially if they're rolling around on your bench in the middle of conversion. Its not even fully mounted since its so short... With a bad spring like that, you're going to have problems... at the very least, automatic coupling performance will suffer, but it might not stay coupled properly either.

Other springs might superficially look the same as the NP spring, but they are definitely not the same. There is no other coupler that shares the same spring spec as mine.

[GaryHinshaw]

Good.  In a case like this you'll have no problem with reliability.  If the height mismatch bothers you (as it would to me) the easiest solution is a ~0.2 mm truck washer.  This will raise the ride height slightly, but you probably won't even notice it.  The alternative of raising the coupler (in a retro-fit like this) usually requires a lot more work.  I'm guessing your TWX gon is bang on for height now.

I will note that's positively not a N-Possible spring installed!

100%.  Change out that spring.

Umm….  isn’t that exactly what this thread is?   

LOL.  That is certainly the intention.  But it takes a village; I am entirely focussed on modern crap so I'm relying on the group here to fill out the roster.  I'll do my best to keep the index up to date.  Please also note the blog pages on Andrew's N-Possible site:

https://www.n-possible.com/installation-guides
https://www.n-possible.com/doing-the-n-possible

[vermonter_railfan]

Other springs might superficially look the same as the NP spring, but they are definitely not the same. There is no other coupler that shares the same spring spec as mine.

That's exactly what happened, already went ahead and swapped that spring out while I was doing the opposite end.
Thanks!

[vermonter_railfan]

Good.  In a case like this you'll have no problem with reliability.  If the height mismatch bothers you (as it would to me) the easiest solution is a ~0.2 mm truck washer.  This will raise the ride height slightly, but you probably won't even notice it.  The alternative of raising the coupler (in a retro-fit like this) usually requires a lot more work.  I'm guessing your TWX gon is bang on for height now.

Yeah, I'm not too worried about reliability in that sense, especially once it's coupled to the gondolas like you said. This will be a unit train that I will only ever be running and not using for any operations so as long as they all match within reason, I'm good with it.

Here's the gon and caboose together.

[BCR 570]

The phase 2 units couple just fine with two shorts; They even still do crazy 9 3/4 corners too. Now that is with the forthcoming locomotive type boxes, they have more lateral motion then the SBX scalebox parts.

These boxes are coming soon; They're better suited to certain install scenarios vs the SBX scale box parts.

I met with Gary this morning and he has kindly provided some loco type boxes so that Michael (Dayliner) and I can convert our new Rapido RDCs to NPs.  I have a few questions about your installation:

1. Did you use the thin or thick lid for your conversions?
2. Did you use the existing Rapido screw or substitute another?
3. Was it necessary to remove the body shell to complete the conversion?


Thank you,

Tim

[turbowhiz]

1.

I met with Gary this morning and he has kindly provided some loco type boxes so that Michael (Dayliner) and I can convert our new Rapido RDCs to NPs.  I have a few questions about your installation:

1. Did you use the thin or thick lid for your conversions?
2. Did you use the existing Rapido screw or substitute another?
3. Was it necessary to remove the body shell to complete the conversion?


Thank you,

Tim

1. Thick lid
2. The existing factory screw is perfect
3. No shell removal required; just unscrew the old coupler box assembly, and replace them with the NP box assembly.


As a side note, for shell removal, you do need to remove both couplers.

[GaryHinshaw]

I've been meaning to post this for a while: Harz Sondericker (one of the gang that took the cross-country journey on the VIA Canadian to Vancouver back in September) found these reusable toothpicks () on Amazon and it turns out they make excellent uncoupling picks:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08QCRB5JX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[Canadian link, but there must be a US counterpart.]  I can't imagine getting one of these anywhere near my gums, but they're great for uncoupling.

[BCR 570]

1. Thick lid
2. The existing factory screw is perfect
3. No shell removal required; just unscrew the old coupler box assembly, and replace them with the NP box assembly.


As a side note, for shell removal, you do need to remove both couplers.

Thank you for the prompt reply!

Tim

[BCR 570]

I've been meaning to post this for a while: Harz Sondericker (one of the gang that took the cross-country journey on the VIA Canadian to Vancouver back in September) found these reusable toothpicks () on Amazon and it turns out they make excellent uncoupling picks:

Ordered!

Tim

[C855B]

I've been meaning to post this for a while: Harz Sondericker (one of the gang that took the cross-country journey on the VIA Canadian to Vancouver back in September) found these reusable toothpicks () on Amazon and it turns out they make excellent uncoupling picks:

[Canadian link, but there must be a US counterpart.]  I can't imagine getting one of these anywhere near my gums, but they're great for uncoupling.

Here they are on eBay: [redacted]