Author Topic: C&O 0-10-0 switcher  (Read 1792 times)

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mmagliaro

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #15 on: November 07, 2019, 05:33:50 PM »
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Peteski,
Yes, sometimes there is a tiny spot weld that holds the pinion on the motor shaft on Faulhaber and Maxon motors.  I usually just buzz that off with a thin Dremel disk.  But you are right, you do have to be careful and it's a little tricky because there isn't a lot of room.

As for getting the gearheads off, yes, I've encountered some like that --- ones that are so tight I think they must have them welded in place, LOL.   I got them off with two sets of Vise Grips (yes, I know... kind of ham fisted, but it works).   I clamp the roundy part of the Vise Grip jaws around the motor case, and do the same on the gearhead case, and then twist in opposite directions.  I admit, I worried that I had to clamp them on so tight that I'd crush the cases before I could get them tight enough to hold their grip while turning, but it did work and nothing got damaged.

CRL

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2019, 07:12:34 PM »
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Vise Grips & N-Scale. Who’d a thunk?

metalworkertom

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #17 on: November 07, 2019, 07:20:30 PM »
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I bought several of them in the past.  The motor is 13mm X 21mm.
But I was unable to unscrew the gearhead from the motor (and I tried really hard. If you have some trick method to do this, I'm all ears.  Whatever thy used to lock the thread (looks like epoxy, not tread locker) :)
I ended up chucking the motor in my lathe, and using a cutoff tool to separate the gearhead.

I also encountered 2 different ways the pinion gear is mounted on the motor shaft.  One way is press-fit so it can be removed with a gear puller (but it is on quite tight). The other way is looser fit on the shaft but the end of the shaft is welded to the spur gear.  That one has to be drilled or ground out. That one was a pain to deal with.

I had to use 2 pair if pliers on a 10mm motor and gear head last night. It was hard to move all the way to the end of the threads.

mmagliaro

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2019, 07:28:16 PM »
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I just repeated my "experimental method" on a 10mm one I had here.   Well... it sort-a worked.   The motor is fine.
The gearhead... not so much.  The problem is that many of the Maxon gearheads are plastic, so even if you don't crush or deform the case, you can push some of the plastic inward like a small "dimple" with the jaw of the Vise Grip if you're not careful.  That's what happened, causing a bad tooth on the inner wall of the gearhead.  The gears jam slightly at that spot every time around.

What's really needed is a sort of strap/clamp thing, like an oil filter wrench.  It would strap around the case tightly, but exert pressure everywhere, not just on some "teeth" like a Vise Grip.

But in any event, the motor is fine and the gearhead was a 16:1 so I'm not too broken hearted about it.  If it were a 4:1... sadness.

metalworkertom

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #19 on: November 07, 2019, 07:39:55 PM »
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I just repeated my "experimental method" on a 10mm one I had here.   Well... it sort-a worked.   The motor is fine.
The gearhead... not so much.  The problem is that many of the Maxon gearheads are plastic, so even if you don't crush or deform the case, you can push some of the plastic inward like a small "dimple" with the jaw of the Vise Grip if you're not careful.  That's what happened, causing a bad tooth on the inner wall of the gearhead.  The gears jam slightly at that spot every time around.

What's really needed is a sort of strap/clamp thing, like an oil filter wrench.  It would strap around the case tightly, but exert pressure everywhere, not just on some "teeth" like a Vise Grip.

But in any event, the motor is fine and the gearhead was a 16:1 so I'm not too broken hearted about it.  If it were a 4:1... sadness.

Ive used the clamp portion of a flaring tool to hold things like this in the past. Might have to build a tool with 2 if them.

peteski

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #20 on: November 07, 2019, 08:15:57 PM »
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Peteski,
Yes, sometimes there is a tiny spot weld that holds the pinion on the motor shaft on Faulhaber and Maxon motors.  I usually just buzz that off with a thin Dremel disk.  But you are right, you do have to be careful and it's a little tricky because there isn't a lot of room.

As for getting the gearheads off, yes, I've encountered some like that --- ones that are so tight I think they must have them welded in place, LOL.   I got them off with two sets of Vise Grips (yes, I know... kind of ham fisted, but it works).   I clamp the roundy part of the Vise Grip jaws around the motor case, and do the same on the gearhead case, and then twist in opposite directions.  I admit, I worried that I had to clamp them on so tight that I'd crush the cases before I could get them tight enough to hold their grip while turning, but it did work and nothing got damaged.

I'm not talking about the tiny weld on the side of the shaft.  The pinion gear I dealt with was welded on the top of the gear. The pinion and shaft were neatly melted together (not like a spot weld - this was melted metal). If I ever run into that version again I'll take a before and after photo.

And I have tried to hold the motor and gearhead in vice grips, first through rubber roofing material (not to mar them) and if that didn't work, directly by the jaws. They wouldn't budge! Vise grips were tight, yet they started slipping, gouging the motor. Looks like their threads are epoxied together (you can see some epoxy oozed out where the motor and gearhead meet.
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Kentuckian

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #21 on: November 07, 2019, 08:27:52 PM »
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Thank you all so much. So much goodness here! A RW member contacted me off line to provide a stock motor gratis so I could finish the wheel grinding. If when I complete this project it will certainly be a team effort.

A couple of questions about the Maxon motor. What is the shaft length? How would one go about mounting it?

Thanks again, everyone.
« Last Edit: November 07, 2019, 09:47:26 PM by Kentuckian »
Modeling the C&O in Kentucky.

“Nature does not know extinction; all it knows is transformation. ... Everything science has taught me-and continues to teach me-strengthens my belief in the continuity of our spiritual existence after death. Nothing disappears without a trace.” Wernher von Braun

Point353

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #22 on: November 07, 2019, 08:56:44 PM »
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What's really needed is a sort of strap/clamp thing, like an oil filter wrench.  It would strap around the case tightly, but exert pressure everywhere, not just on some "teeth" like a Vise Grip.


Albert in N

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #23 on: November 07, 2019, 09:53:48 PM »
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  :)  From my experience, all Mini Trix steamers ran fast.  This decapod was in the factory yellow and green box and had the original rapido coupler on the tender.  I doubt it was ever used.  Last month, I acquired it as part of an N train collection estate sale.  Unlike the Con-Cor Rivarrossi steamers, this Trix decapod is mint.  It runs smoothly at five or six volts but this is not enough for the tiny headlight bulb to light up.  At ten volts, there is an acceptable headlight, but the train is running at warp speed.  Yes, it will keep up with my Kato diesels.

« Last Edit: November 07, 2019, 10:07:04 PM by Albert in N »

mmagliaro

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #24 on: November 08, 2019, 12:15:01 AM »
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Thank you all so much. So much goodness here! A RW member contacted me off line to provide a stock motor gratis so I could finish the wheel grinding. If when I complete this project it will certainly be a team effort.

A couple of questions about the Maxon motor. What is the shaft length? How would one go about mounting it?

Thanks again, everyone.

For these Maxon motors that are designed to take gearheads, the output shafts are SHORT... about 0.1", so you have to plan on sleeving them with something to get the shaft diameter up to 1.5mm and get a big more length on them before setting the worm on.

nkalanaga

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #25 on: November 08, 2019, 12:36:37 AM »
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NorthWest Short Line MIGHT have such sleeves, but I haven't looked for them.  Since they're back in business it wouldn't hurt to check with them.
N Kalanaga
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Cajonpassfan

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #26 on: November 08, 2019, 12:38:49 AM »
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The Rivarossi USRA light shell will fit the TRIX chassis.  The steam pipes and cylinders even line up properly.  That might be a starting point.  I never tried the RR USRA heavies, but, I would not doubt that they  might fit, as well.

In fact, you could make a USRA  light decapod out of this thing.  I can  not remember for sure, but I seem to recall that I got the idea from Richie Dost.

 I had one, but sold it on FeePay.

What’s a “USRA light decapod” ? You mean a Russian decapod? But those were much smaller, shorter, lighter, with much smaller wheels and wheelbase. Maybe a Russian decapod on steroids...😜
Otto K.

daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #27 on: November 08, 2019, 05:52:56 AM »
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NorthWest Short Line MIGHT have such sleeves, but I haven't looked for them.  Since they're back in business it wouldn't hurt to check with them.

If they ever ship their backlog of orders. I have had one since march that is still pending.
'In my great and unmatched wisdom'

Lemosteam

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #28 on: November 08, 2019, 07:52:06 AM »
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@Kentuckian ,

Many years ago I did this with a n old lifelike 5 poler which can run very slow and are easy to find (let me know if you want one):

Entire album:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsjxX2gde


Hansel

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Re: C&O 0-10-0 switcher
« Reply #29 on: November 08, 2019, 10:58:31 AM »
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Is that a Pit?

What are you using for a boiler shell? Obvi the K4 Trix thing is out...  Will an old Atlas Riv 080 boiler work?

I had a 2-10-0 A million years ago.  I've been looking for an excuse to buy another one...

Watching with interest...