Minitrix FM switcher question

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I am thinking of using a Bachmann NW2 just because it runs better than it looks. I always liked the FM designs so this is more a fun project for me.

[Joetrain59]

I wonder if the Trix FM shell would fit the Kato NW2 mechanism?  Though we all know, it's not the best design. Has anyone improved the running on the Kato unit?  If so, please start another thread, so as to not hijack this one.
 Joe D

[peteski]

I wonder if the Trix FM shell would fit the Kato NW2 mechanism?  Though we all know, it's not the best design. Has anyone improved the running on the Kato unit?  If so, please start another thread, so as to not hijack this one.
 Joe D

Um, the only problem I been aware of in that design was a splitting gear which made the drive-train slip.  It is a typical Kato design with low-friction trucks and brass strip pickup contacts. I did not realize there were other problems. Oh, I think it uses fine-pitch gears which are prone to getting jammed if debris get into the works.  If there are other running problems, I have not read about them.

[u18b]

I wonder if the Trix FM shell would fit the Kato NW2 mechanism?  Though we all know, it's not the best design. Has anyone improved the running on the Kato unit?  If so, please start another thread, so as to not hijack this one.
 Joe D

I have.  I've written about it other places- and it wouldn't be hijacking if it is making a good mechanism for your FM loco.

I submitted an article to N-Scale Mag about 4 or 5 years ago, but they haven't published it yet.  I guess it's too boring.

Anyway.... the loco has TWO problems- that go TOGETHER and thus must be solved together.

1.  The large white drive gear in the transmission slips- loss of traction.   Kato press fit this gear on.  Why they didn't key it (shaft flat on one side with matching gear shape) is beyond me.   They know there is a problem.    I brought it up at a show-- and the Kato rep told me to hit the shaft with a tool (like a screwdriver) and flatten it.  This didn't sound like a good idea to me (shaft could bend slightly, interference with bearings etc).   I roughed up the shaft and used locktight on that gear.  But only after solving #2.

2.  The smaller problem that contributes to noise is the transmission shaft gets shifted to one side (same shaft, same gear.   The slipping is a problem).  This puts a small bind on everything.

So you must CENTER the shaft.

Just hold the locomotive in your hand and tilt both trucks inward toward the fuel tank at the same time. You can FEEL the shaft moving as you press one direction or the other.   You can manually center everything that way.  Then be careful when you handle the loco so you don't shift the shaft again.

Then carefully disassemble and do #1 above.   You could probably carefully wash the gear and shaft with a toothbrush and soap and water and then add micro drops of superglue to the white gear on the transmission shaft.  Clean off any excess since bearings go near that spot.

My NW2 runs great now.

[Iain]

I'm the one that used the LL mech.  This was prior to the Kato (and later Bachmann) NW2s.  It was a lot of work to thin down the frame, but then tossed some tungsten and a decoder over top (plenty of room in the shell) and it was a great runner.

I could use another shell, I'd like to do the one that is at the NCTM as I got a cab ride back when it was in revenue service.

[Missaberoad]

I'm the one that used the LL mech.  This was prior to the Kato (and later Bachmann) NW2s.  It was a lot of work to thin down the frame, but then tossed some tungsten and a decoder over top (plenty of room in the shell) and it was a great runner.

I could use another shell, I'd like to do the one that is at the NCTM as I got a cab ride back when it was in revenue service.

Beaufort & Morehead 1860 is a phase ii unit and would be best represented with a South Boulder Modelworks shell on a VO1000 mechanism...

https://www.shapeways.com/product/QH7XJV3TD/n-scale-fm-h-12-44?optionId=43340812&li=marketplace

[nkalanaga]

I have also ordered a Bachmann NW2, just to see what happens.  If my FM runs better, great.  If not, the BN had NW2s, so it won't be wasted, although I already have three Katos, and no use for BN switchers...

[Joetrain59]

I got several Trix FM shells from a fellow modeler, not on TRW. I see trix has the taller handrail stanchions by the cab, right over front of battery boxes(?)!  The exhaust ports on top of the shell are just 2 holes. Were there details there? Though Spookshow's site does not show any on the UP model posted. I've got GMM stanchions coming this week. Need to go dig out my Kato NW2.
 Joe D

[tehachapifan]

I got several Trix FM shells from a fellow modeler, not on TRW. I see trix has the taller handrail stanchions by the cab, right over front of battery boxes(?)!  The exhaust ports on top of the shell are just 2 holes. Were there details there? Though Spookshow's site does not show any on the UP model posted. I've got GMM stanchions coming this week. Need to go dig out my Kato NW2.
 Joe D

Well, this picture is of the SP unit I'm modeling and it shows how the tall stanchion is positioned. You can also sort of see the exhaust stacks, which I plan on making from brass tubing or similar (there could be variances between units)...

http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/h12-44_photos/2381_sp-h12-44-bob_dengler.jpg

[Joetrain59]

Trix has the stanchions right over the louvers   A little brass tubing sounds like a good idea. Geez, those are thin handrails, even for a prototype, lol.
 Joe D

[nkalanaga]

I put spark arrestors on my stacks, assuming  that the original didn't have tall stacks, for clearance reasons.

From the pictures in the "Second Diesel Spotter's Guide", some FMs of them apparently didn't have tall stacks, as nothing is visible from ground level.  Others have round stacks, yet others have a metal plate, on supports, with no stack visible under it.  And, one picture shows a unit with spark arrestors, but no round stack, similar to my model.

[randgust]

Trix has the stanchions right over the louvers   A little brass tubing sounds like a good idea. Geez, those are thin handrails, even for a prototype, lol.
 Joe D

That's why I did John Sing's ATSF unit with .010 soldered brass wire.  Can still do that.

[crappie]

   i used  a cor-cur - kato  chassis from the 80's  the shell fit miner sanding inside of shell. slipfit runs  on code 55

[Dave Schneider]

I have a bunch of shells and 3 or 4 mechanisms that I am willing to sell if anyone wants a project using one of these. Send me a PM if interested.

Best wishes,
Dave

[nickelplate759]

So, I want to make a mechanically/electrically modern N-scale engine out of one of these beasts, I see several possibilities.  "Modern N-Scale", for me means:
1. runs on Atlas or similar Code 55 track
2. can accommodate DCC
3. Headlights (both-ends)
Bonus points for sound, but maybe not.

Possible starting points are:
1. the original Minitrix mechanism
2. Lifelike/Walthers SW1200
3. Kato NW2
4. Bachmann NW2


The Minitrix mechanism is probably more work than it's worth - between a new motor and new NWSL wheels it's at least $60 in parts before I even think about DCC.   The others won't fit without narrowing their chassis.   I don't have a mill, so I'm assuming that I can do this with a mill file or some similar tool.   I've no idea how practical that will be.

I already have an SW1200 mechanisim - so that's a point in it's favor.   I also have the Kato mechanism that Con-Cor commission for the old Rivarossi SW, but it's not all that great, and acts like it really wants to be a slot-car, not a switch engine.

Does any one have experience updating the putting a new chassis under one of these that they could share?