Minitrix FM switcher question

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Does anyone have any idea why the number boards are asymmetrical? Was this a thing that actually happened in the prototype?

[wcfn100]

Because maybe they aren't number boards. 




Jason

[Chris333]

Aren't the number boards on the sides up front above the radiator grills?

[wcfn100]

Aren't the number boards on the sides up front above the radiator grills?

Yeah, but the asymmetrical comment makes me think he's talking about the openings on the rear of the cab because I don't see how it would relate to the one's on the side.

Jason

[Point353]

Aren't the number boards on the sides up front above the radiator grills?

More or less.

[Mark5]

A little different on the NKP units:

http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/detail.php?ID=82452

(incorrect link removed - thanks George!)

Mark

[nickelplate759]

A little different on the NKP units:

http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/detail.php?ID=82452

http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/detail.php?ID=18506

Mark

NKP 132 was a different, earlier prototype - an H10-44.   The photo is mislabled.    NKP 140 (N&W 2140) was indeed a late-model H12-44

[Mark5]

Guess I need to be a bit less hasty.

[thomasjmdavis]

Well, NKP 140 may be the H12-44, but my copy of the Trix model has numberboards matching those on NKP 132- which is to say above and level to the front of the radiator, not all the way to the front of the nose.  In any case, not at all like the PRR numberboards.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Because maybe they aren't number boards. 




Jason

So the blank holes are supposed to represent an SP light package? That just makes it worse.

[tehachapifan]

So the blank holes are supposed to represent an SP light package? That just makes it worse.

Yeah, they are pretty rough representations to say the least but, despite their shortcomings, I guess I kind of appreciate the nod to the SP. One of the problems with them, aside from the total lack of any type of actual light housing, is the openings on the hood end are too low. I had to blank those out on my model and install new, higher ones as can be seen in the pic (still have to fabricate a square UED light)...



Also raised was the headlight and sand-fill hatches on the hood end, plus an new (taller) door from a BLMA set was installed.

[Joetrain59]

How well do those old locos run?  Though, I'd like an ALCo high hood engine.
 Joe D

[tehachapifan]

Mine actually ran fairly nice, although it took a somewhat high starting voltage to begin moving in DC and didn't do very well with slow speed creep. I've since re-motored mine and also switched to NWSL wheels. I plan on dropping a Zimo decoder in it at some point too.

[nkalanaga]

Not like a modern flywheel-equipped loco, but very well for their age.  Mine does quite well as a mine switcher, and is stock except for NWSL wheelsets and KD 1025 couplers.  40+ years of breaking in haven't hurt it a bit.  All it needs is clean track, and it runs fines, although starts tend to be a little "jackrabbity".

I would think it would run even better on DCC, especially if your decoder will allow for a higher voltage in speed step 1, to give the motor a nudge, then drop back on 2, to the minimum it will run smoothly on.

Yes, those are KD couplers - they're from the mid 70s, before KD and MT split.

[Joetrain59]

What's the chance of one of these available on the bay? Spookshows review is that's it's really not a bad runner. I have a Faulhaber motor with nothing to do. Might be a good fit for it?

Joe D