Intermountain SD40-2

[C855B]

I had a rough time believing the 0.500" myself, so I tried multiple times with the same result, +/- .002" or so. No reason to not trust my caliper, it's spot-on for everything else I do. I can't tell you offhand which version it is - "early", maybe?* - but the road number is UP 3242, if that's any help with ID'ing it. I'll look at it again and check my non-Dash-2 SD40s when back at the layout building tomorrow.

* - Found the jewel box. Confirmed as "early".

[PeyRil]

C855B, Are you taking your measurements on the radiator grills? I used the flat area just below the back of the grills at the corner on the end of the hood. I figured using the corner area would yield the most accurate reading, ie. not allowing the shell walls to flex inward as I took a measurement. Also used the area under the dynamic brake blister, as my mic could reach around the blister and land flat on the doors. Looking at the latches/hinge detail, they seem to stick out a scale inch or so. So could we even subtract their amount from the overall width? (.006 x 2 = .012) Which would give me .455 at the corner. 6 feet works out to be .450.

But, really to me its split'n hairs talking about worring about a few inches wide, thin, tall......  Now greater than 6-8 inches, that starts to be fairly noticable to some people's eyes. But only right next to something else for comparison, say a different make of a given model.

[C855B]

You were thinking what I was thinking. I measured over the doors from the back, so it should correspond to what you had below the DB blister. Since the calipers have a large flat, I wouldn't be able to measure under the DB without removing the body from the chassis, resulting in the obvious variable.

I was digging through boxes and successfully found my SD40s acquired 20 years ago. (DCC ready? I don't think so. ) I'll take them over to the layout building workbench tomorrow and see what they yield, and also re-measure the -2.

[cjm413]

I don't know about that.  There's some variations that Kato hasn't done.  And then there's the sound thing. 

FWIW, the IM SD45-2 hood is about 1/32" narrower than the Kato SD40-2, which is probably an indication of what you'll get with the SD40-2.   Personally I don't think the difference is noticeable.

(I really need to get some calipers.  It's too inconvenient to keep borrowing the ones from work.)

The biggest problem I have with the Kato hood width is that it precludes kitbashes that would otherwise allow the use of existing Atlas hood components, e.g. Kato SD40(-2) to SD38(-2) without dynamic brakes by using engine room and radiator sections of an Atlas GP38(-2) long hood without dynamic brakes, Kato U30C to U23C using Atlas U23B long hood (plus a "free" U30B shell with the leftover parts), etc.

[C855B]

OOOoooookaaaaay...

I measured again. Still 0.500" +/- a couple of thousandths:



Measuring behind the doors was 0.475". The 1990's SD40 was 0.495" over the doors. I think we're all in the ballpark, although I'm slightly surprised the doors have that much relief to them considering they're flush on the 1:1 version. Modeler's license, I guess.

[tehachapifan]

By my observation, EMD doors are not flush with the hood. It appears to me that the dimensions of the outermost part of the door are slightly larger than the opening and the door overlaps the opening. This makes the door stick out the thickness of the sheet metal used. I'm assuming this is part of the latching/closing system.

[jagged ben]

Okay, well I think if we're measuring the doors then that explains the discrepancy.   I would have measured the hood minus any relief objects.  Scale thickness on the doors might make them practically invisible on the model, especially under a layer of paint.   

[mu26aeh]

If I get to the point where I'm getting calipers and such out, my wife will probably have me committed to the insane asylum. 

[peteski]

If I get to the point where I'm getting calipers and such out, my wife will probably have me committed to the insane asylum. 

Why? I use my ($19 Harbor Freight) digital calipers all the time (not just to be anal). It comes in very handy for all sorts of modeling tasks. Honestly, in N scale you really need one to do any decent modeling.

[cnw mike]

Well, at least this makes me feel a bit better about my Katos, they're really not that far off. So maybe i won't rush to sell them all on ebay before the market crashes.

I second calipers, picked up a cheap pair that does metric, decimal and fractional inches. Can't imagine how I ever got along without them before!

[Mark5]

Heads up - these are in stock now at MBK.

Mark

[davefoxx]

Heads up - these are in stock now at MBK.

Mark

Oh, sh!t!  After much fanfare and delay, here we go!  Love 'em or hate 'em?

DFF

[Chris333]

The MBK photos don't look bad.

[mu26aeh]

I'm hoping to get my phone call tomorrow, maybe, please 

[cnw mike]

Yes, they look nice. Only real step down visually from the Kato is the wheels, but I suppose that's easier to fix than it is to add grabs, etc. to the Kato.