New brass EP-2 clinic- part 2

[u18b]

Nice, but a lot of work!  How many more models do you have to paint like that? 

Probably about 5 or 6.

Actually, this procedure on the walkway was not that bad. 

The next hurdle will be the red on the sand boxes.

[wcfn100]

When you run out of paint schemes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/35mm-Dupe-Slide-Milwaukee-Road-EP2-Bipolar-Locomotive-E-5-Deer-Lodge-MT-1958-/371827778495?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276

Jason

[u18b]

Man, I am glad 2016 is over.

Have had some health issues (minor) and a wedding.
And my work is a marathon from about Sept till New Year.

So all of that is over.

I typically get most of my modeling done from Jan till about May or so.

So I hate that nothing has been done on this project lately, but I'm hoping for some progress in the weeks to come.

By the way, yes, I have my eye on doing one of the rebuilt ones like in that photo.

In studying photos, I found that they are not all identical.
So I have picked the one I would probably attempt.

Since I'm posting, I'll mention that recently I picked up some of that masking fluid we talked about above.
Basically, it looks like latex paint.  So I can see that you paint it on.
Let it dry.
Then airbrush right over it.

Then peel it off.

I can already see that this will help some seams.

Also, remember how much trouble I had protecting the area that is cut out in front of the cab door?
Well, I think I'll use some of this mask next time.

[peteski]

Ron,
since you mentioned masking problems I also like to mention another masking product I have in my arsenal: Parafilm M. Masking is not its primary intended use, but couple of decades ago some modeler decided to use it for masking and the idea stuck (or more accurately didn't stick as Parafilm M is very low tack).  At some point even Testors started repackaging it in small quantities as a hobby product. I'm not sure if they still do.  It comes very handy for all sorts of masking tasks.

I get mine in larger quantities for much better price than what Testors charged for it.  Actually I don't even remember the last place I purchased if from - friend gave me a large spool of it for free few years ago and I haven't even made a small dent in it yet.



Of course (just like with everything else) there are lots of helpful video tutorials on Youtube

[u18b]

Ready to finish up this next one.

The masking and painting of the red on the sandboxes was a challenge because of the grabirons.

So......

I cut some curved refuse from the Avery label sheet.



Then laid it on some Tamiya tape.



Then used an Xacto knife to follow the master curves to cut the tape.




Then trimmed and applied to the model.
If you're wondering why not use the Avery label refuse, it's because it is not sticky enough.




OK.  Almost ready for painting.

[u18b]

Then, following the suggestion of this discussion, I used some masking liquid.
Can't remember if I bought it at Michael's or Hobby Lobby.



It is pretty thin.   It is sort of a blend between Elmer's white glue and latex paint.
I coated the areas I wanted to remain orange.   This was REALLY helpful in protecting those orange cones on the corners of the walkway (they are flag holders).




It dries in only a few minutes.  It was also very helpful in masking the cracks between tape pieces, as well as the edge of the grabiron.




After airbrushing red and removing the masking, it turned out pretty well.






Ready for decals.

[u18b]

Started applying the custom made decals.   These curves were created to match the Avery labels.




Walkways are finished and clear coated.    Now I can assemble the chassis again.




Now for the nose.  Custom curved, warning message and number boards.  Man it is nice to not have to apply the numbers and letters one piece at a time.  Just one decal and I'm done.



Custom curves on the noses are done.  Now I can add the standard straight MicroScale black 1&2 inch stripes.   These are sturdier than the custom decals.
I have a LOT of pinstriping to do now.




The builder's plates came out pretty well.   I like them.

This is the one with the class and serial number.



And I really like the GE plate.

[u18b]

All for now.

I'll post more shots when I get more decal work done.

[sd45elect2000]

I think I'll paint mine black...

Randy

[u18b]

I think I'll paint mine black...

Randy

LOL.    I'm not sure but I might agree with you.

I thought that the Railroad Fair scheme was a challenge..... but this is much harder.

At least, it's all this wonderful detail that must be worked around that makes it a tough job.

Words cannot express how glad I am to be at this point.
It's all downhill from here.

[SandyEggoJake]

Ron, Nice work.  Continue to be impressed every time I stop in for a peek.

Quick Q: For your builder plates - they look great - is that black ink on brass?  Or a two color decal of some sort? 

(as an aside, I've been considering designing a fret of N scale photoetched builders plates and engine number, but wondering about best ways to paint and also considering alternative)

[CNR5529]

Ron, always impressed with your level of craftsmanship!

(as an aside, I've been considering designing a fret of N scale photoetched builders plates and engine number, but wondering about best ways to paint and also considering alternative)

If you were able to get the etching fine enough that the lettering stood out clearly, you could apply a wash of paint over the entire surface and gently polish/expose the top layer of metal with fine sandpaper. I would be very interested in seeing the results of such a test!

[peteski]

Ron, Nice work.  Continue to be impressed every time I stop in for a peek.

Quick Q: For your builder plates - they look great - is that blank ink on brass?  Or a two color decal of some sort? 

(as an aside, I've been considering designing a fret of N scale photoetched builders plates and engine number, but wondering about best ways to paint and also considering alternative)

I can answer this since I printed them for Ron. What you see there is a resolution limits of the Alps printer (that is how they were printed, using black and metallic gold inks).

Ron, you did wonderful job on these. Having the grab irons already installed makes this type of a paint job *REALLY* difficult. I don't envy you one bit! 

Jake, etched brass builder's plates would be really nice detail item. I see them used on many brass models. They are usually half-etched, then simply painted black, then they are ran over fine-grit sandpaper to remove the paint from the lettering areas.  I've done something similar with my home-etched Peterbilt logos.  They were painted with red paint then ran over sandpaper. Since these were supposed to represent chromed logos, I then sanded them with few more finer grits and then polished them.

[u18b]

Ron, Nice work.  Continue to be impressed every time I stop in for a peek.

Quick Q: For your builder plates - they look great - is that blank ink on brass?  Or a two color decal of some sort? 

(as an aside, I've been considering designing a fret of N scale photoetched builders plates and engine number, but wondering about best ways to paint and also considering alternative)

As Peteski said, it is two color Alps.  Metallic gold ink and black.   We did it two ways.  One way was one decal.
The other was two separate decals-- and that's what you see here.  I first mounted black boxes.   I then mounted the gold decal on top.

[SandyEggoJake]

Thx.  Great use of the Alps' ability to print metallics.  (Nice work guys).

And yes, @peteski , my initial thought would be to half etch the plate, and allow the modeler to paint (or chemically blacken) then polish the relief.  Such is what I've done in larger scales from my HO days. 

That will work ok of a loco number, but not so much a builders plate.  It would only give you something similar to the alps but at far more cost. 

But let's not drift this great thread!