Weekend Update 5/19/13

[up1950s]

[skytop35]

Finished up a new head end car. It's a NYC outside door express box car modified from a Micro-Trains troop sleeper. I have castings available for those interested. See my web site at Skytopmodels.com

[craigolio1]

Well I finally have something to show this week.

The power car for the Dinner Train is ready for prep and paint.  It's prototype was built from a CN/VIA steam generator. This model was actually done a long time ago, but I realized once complete, and sitting in the consist, it was too tall. 
  I had used a pair of Intermountain Modified AAR boxcars as a starting point. 
So, I started from scratch with two regular 40 footers and it looks much better now. The roof has a slight bow in it and tends to pop off, so I think I may use a couple of magnets inside to hold it on.
 It needs to be accessible as there will be a decoder or batteries inside to turn the marker lights on and off. 
Any thoughts on a more simple idea that magnets?








The CRS20 kitbash is done and ready for prep and paint.  I only added a few details since the last photo so it basically looks the same.








    I also started another project.  For the longest time I've wanted to build a model of the Rocky Mountaineer as she was in the first couple of years of service... about 1992. 
I detailed the B36-7 a while back and have had decals made for the loco and consist. 
This week the Rapido Daynighter cars arrived at the store so I have that part of the consist ready. 
I needed an ex-VIA/CN baggage dorm car which Laser Horizons cut for me based on a drawing.  Those sides will be grafted onto a Rapido coach. 
Finally, I needed an Ultra-dome or two, which was going to be a problem until a friend of mine did them using a 3D printer.
 Here are the first shots.  I have added a layer of Bondo spot putty to the sides and sanded them to make them nice and smooth.  The top windows are solid. 
Due to the thin window frames, there would have been no strength there.  The prototype has tinted windows anyway so once painted black they will look good enough until a more accurate model comes a long.

I did two cars.  One with the long back porch and one with the short.





Thanks for looking, Craig

[eric220]

Well, as I said last week, I drove this:



And here's the promised proof:



On the model railroad, my dad's been in town, and we've put in some work.  We got the C&H refinery wired up, all of the frogs on the mainline powered, and cork down on the beginning of the passenger terminal throat.

[Hornwrecker]

More damn trees planted.

[Bart1701]

With the opening of the new Star Trek film this week, I had to post this photo - even though it has been posted before.

Live long and prosper!

[kelticsylk]

Been working on raising all that styrofoam roadbed. Gone about 23 feet so far. Photo was taken before I got the eastbound supports installed through Horseshoe Curve. Have to go back to Gallitzin and raise the westbound roadbed before I continue down the hill...

[craigolio1]

Been working on raising all that styrofoam roadbed. Gone about 23 feet so far. Photo was taken before I got the eastbound supports installed through Horseshoe Curve. Have to go back to Gallitzin and raise the westbound roadbed before I continue down the hill...

I like the foam splined roadbed.  Will it be quiet?  I made road bed out of styrafoam once, but it was the white bead kind.  It was very noisy.

Craig

[mark dance]

Most of the hobby time this week went into preparing for, conducting, and recovering from an Ops session.  What (very) little modelling time there was went into water scenes in the Kootenay and Slocan River areas.





Have a great weekend!

md

[packers#1]

With the opening of the new Star Trek film this week, I had to post this photo - even though it has been posted before.

Live long and prosper!

I just got home from watching that movie; AMAZING!!!

[nkalanaga]

Craig:  Pushbutton switch under one of the vents?  I assume you used brass tube, so could stick a brass rod through the vent to work the switch.  Put a piece of wooden dowel on the end for a handle and it should work nicely.

Second thought:  Slide or mini toggle switch in the battery(?) box.  Cut the bottom out and mount the switch upside down, sticking through the floor.  Mounted at the right height the lever wouldn't show, but could still be easily moved with a fingernail or small object.

[craigolio1]

Craig:  Pushbutton switch under one of the vents?  I assume you used brass tube, so could stick a brass rod through the vent to work the switch.  Put a piece of wooden dowel on the end for a handle and it should work nicely.

Second thought:  Slide or mini toggle switch in the battery(?) box.  Cut the bottom out and mount the switch upside down, sticking through the floor.  Mounted at the right height the lever wouldn't show, but could still be easily moved with a fingernail or small object.

Those are excellent ideas!  Both are options I had not considered.  Any ideas for holding the roof on?  It has a slight bow.  That's why I mentioned magnets.  I figured I could glue a magnet to the car roof, and some metal to the ends.  I'm still figuring on that one.  I think I might be over thinking it.  I could also just make a styrene rectangle and glue it to the roof so it creates a friction fit when it slides in.  That would likely be easier.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

Craig

[NARmike]

Craig; how about a small hook on each end of the floor (inside) and one on each end of the roof (inside) and elastic bands between them... unorthodox, but it would allow you easy access to the innards and keep the roof flat too! 

[RWCJr]

Craig, have you tried using a hair dryer on the roof? Have straightened many warped pieces of styrene using the hair dryer along with gentle pressure (usually rubber bands). I use MicroScales Liquid Tape for the removable roof sections on my structures. Robert

[craigolio1]

Mike and Robert, thanks for the great ideas!  I'll give the hair drier a go, if that doesn't work, the rubber bands sound like a neat idea.

Craig