Weekend Update 5/19/13

[bbussey]

Among the many projects in progress ... I've been expanding on Skibbe's pioneering a few years ago of milling one-part hard-wax cavity molds and making resin castings.  Mike used the method to make Fox truck sideframes.  I'm experimenting with heavyweight passenger car sides.  I milled New Haven diner sides designed to fit the MTL parlor.  DKS was kind enough to run some test shots:





I calculated the resin shrink factor correctly, as the resin sides fit perfectly between the parlor corner posts.  There are a couple of minor tooling errors chalked up to the learning curve, but not noticeable enough to re-mill.  This opens up additional possibilities regarding esoteric heavyweights that never would be tooled in plastic.

[wazzou]

Awesome Bryan!  I'm not certain how you and a few others manage to find enough time in the day.

[pjm20]

I wouldn't mind seeing some Pennsy sides worked into production.

[Dave V]

After prepping the Middle Division portion of the layout a few weeks ago, it was time to assemble a shipping crate for Enola Yard.  Note that I had some clearance issues with a few structures.

[DKS]

 Developed a track plan for a new layout (which will replace the Nn3 project). It's now an urban industrial layout:



There's a lively discussion in the layout engineering thread about building it as a dual-era layout, which would have a 40s era setting when viewed from one side, and a 70s era setting when viewed from the other.

[screeh]

Excellent and inspiring work all 'round, as always - thanks to all for sharing.

Well I finally have something to show this week.
The power car for the Dinner Train is ready for prep and paint.
[...]
The CRS20 kitbash is done and ready for prep and paint. 
[...]
 I also started another project.

I'd say this all counts as far more than "something"!
I like your use of putty to smooth out the WS&F that Peter specified for the ultradomes, I'll have to try that with mine.
Looking forward to seeing the generator car and CRS-20 once they're painted - no pressure, though

[HuskerN]

a couple new models:

Pete 379 tractor:


MAC 53' flatbed (very similar to my 48' version):



HuskerN
www.nscaleaddiction.blogspot.com
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/NScaleAddict

[bbussey]

Awesome Bryan!  I'm not certain how you and a few others manage to find enough time in the day.

There isn't, sadly.  The diner sides took seven hours to mill, but considerably longer to design and prep.  Been working on and off on this for at least three years.

[C855B]

I've been putting together a railcam. Bench testing:

[nkalanaga]

Craig:  Fastening roof on:  If nothing else works, epoxy or ACC a brass bar to the inside to keep it straight.  That should make things a little easier.  If there's no room for that, you could also screw it on.  Glue a plastic block to each end, drill and tap holes in each corner,  and use screws through the floor into that block.  Flathead screws countersunk into the floor on either side of the coupler wouldn't show, and shouldn't get in the way of the battery.  In theory, you could use the coupler screw to do the job, by drilling a clearance hole in the floor, but then you'd have to remove the coupler to change the battery.

[up1950s]

Craig:  Fastening roof on:  If nothing else works, epoxy or ACC a brass bar to the inside to keep it straight.  That should make things a little easier.  If there's no room for that, you could also screw it on.  Glue a plastic block to each end, drill and tap holes in each corner,  and use screws through the floor into that block.  Flathead screws countersunk into the floor on either side of the coupler wouldn't show, and shouldn't get in the way of the battery.  In theory, you could use the coupler screw to do the job, by drilling a clearance hole in the floor, but then you'd have to remove the coupler to change the battery.

Try and keep the weight of any method down on the floor . Maybe plastic tubes glued at the roof corners pointing down . On the underside of the tubes glue in the head and maybe 3/16 long of the shank of a steel nail . On the floor embed 4  neo magnets about the same diameter as the head of the nails . Set this up so there is 1/8th space between the nail heads and the magnets when the roof is fully seated , this way the roof can be removed without the need of TNT .

[craigolio1]

I like the brass bar idea.  It's simple, won't take much time, and should work as the roof does snap into place.  It's just not flat right now.  The other suggestions are good too.  I like the screws from the bottom.  That will come in handy elsewhere.

On the Ultradome, I don't really like the finish on the resin.  The putty made it much better.  It's a good thing there were no surface details or I couldn't have used it.  Still, it will turn out to be a good model.  Now that I know someone else is building one, I'll share some things I did in hopes it helps you too. 

My models came with styrene center sills glued onto the bottom but I found they were too large for the Rapido trucks I planned to use.  Also the truck bolsters were too close to the end and would have prevented the truck near the steps from turning.  Reference photos proved the prototype has them closer to the middle of the space.  I carefully undercut  them and pried the sills off and then sanded the bolsters away.   I measured the Rapido sill and build a new one from styrene
 measuring .08"h x.125"w..  I located the truck centers 11.5 scale ft in from the end of the car.  This puts the truck in almost a perfect position based on photos, but more importantly, the same distance from the ends as the Rapido passenger cars so they will behave together in curves.  Finally, on this sill I used a .03' washer to raise the car just a little. This part is molded on the Rapido cars as well and gives the trucks room to swivel and also brings the floor to just the right level.  I used couplers harvested from some Micro Trains freight trucks but a 1015 would work the same.  Now when coupled the cars look just right.  I'll post a photo when I can, the on above is just the car resting on the bolster it came with.

Thanks for the encouragement on the painting of the power car and the CRS20.  That will likely take place in Sept.  I have a few different projects awaiting paint but no time to do it.  I'm training for an Ironman triathlon and the program is getting really intense so somethings going to have to give here.  Serious train stuff will have to be put off until after my race in August.

Craig

[Ntrainz1]

lowered FVM FMC 5357 boxcar (BLMA trucks) + z couplers.


Bob.

[CodyO]

Bryan love the car sides hope to see more from you!!

[BCR751]

Speaking of steam generator cars, here's one I built a few years ago.  The sides and floor/underframe are scratch-built from styrene and the roof and ends are from an Atlas 40-footer.  I don't remember where I got the trucks.