Brass loco throws traction tire... Thoughts?

[packers#1]

Dave, why can't you cut the tire so that it can be opened, place some kind of glue or epoxy in the tread well, snake the tire on, and hold it steady while the glue sets?

[Dave V]

Dave, why can't you cut the tire so that it can be opened, place some kind of glue or epoxy in the tread well, snake the tire on, and hold it steady while the glue sets?

This has crossed my mind, actually...  But the joint may cause a wobble.  I think Victor's procedure is my best bet.

[Lemosteam]

Since the tire stretches on, cutting it will leave a gap and the thickness of the tire will be greater possibly lifting that side.  i suppose you could fill that with a blob of BFS...

[peteski]

I never had any experience with this loco but I'm applying "Peteski logic" here. I think that Victor might remember that from the A-forum. 

If the other crank pins are threaded and they unscrew, the odds are good that the center crank pin (with the eccentric) also unscrews.  Yes, the eccentric is soldered to the crank pin, but the entire assembly might unscrew.

But don't just trust my word (I don't want you to damage your model).  Look at the back side of the center wheel (where the crank pin hole is. If you can see threads in that hole then my theory should apply. If the hole isn't threaded then ignore what I just said earlier. and unsolder the eccentric.

[Dave V]

I never had any experience with this loco but I'm applying "Peteski logic" here. I think that Victor might remember that from the A-forum. 

If the other crank pins are threaded and they unscrew, the odds are good that the center crank pin (with the eccentric) also unscrews.  Yes, the eccentric is soldered to the crank pin, but the entire assembly might unscrew.

But don't just trust my word (I don't want you to damage your model).  Look at the back side of the center wheel (where the crank pin hole is. If you can see threads in that hole then my theory should apply. If the hole isn't threaded then ignore what I just said earlier. and unsolder the eccentric.

That was actually my thought too...  except that it's nigh impossible to see the backside of the wheel without disassembling the gear and bearing-block assembly...  There's a gear cover that bows downward between the center drivers and all but obscures the backside of the wheel.

[packers#1]

This has crossed my mind, actually...  But the joint may cause a wobble.  I think Victor's procedure is my best bet.

Perhaps there would be a way to heat the tire slightly to make it weld back together? I'm not familiar with what they're made from, but it's a thought at least. I do concede, however, that Victor knows muchhhhhhhhhhhh more about this subject than I do.

[victor miranda]

well...  quite often the cranks are screwed in.
and quite often they come loose. and when you tighten them
they are in the wrong place.

you might try this:

heat the crank and let it cool a bit...
try to get heat into the thread area really.
and see if you can get the main crank loose.
use the eccentric as a handle...  be nice to it.

if you can get it loose, you will have to disassemble the main driver
so that you can roll it while you unscrew the main crank

replace the traction tire and reassemble.
use red loctite to hold the main crank.
stop when you get the eccentric in the proper position.


finish reassembling the loco.

I have to tell you I have not been able to get main cranks loose.
... if it didn't come that way.
why some hold tight, I do not know.

un soldering is hard the first time.
If you can solder, it is not hard at all.
It is less effort than unscrewing etc.

victor
 

[up1950s]

If you could disco the first and last screw on pins , then disco the main rod from the cross head as well as the excentric rod from there . Maybe you can lasso the new tire over those two rods , slide it to the center of the geared driver , then make sure the center driver crank is as far rearward as can be , maybe you then can get the new driver over and past the rear rod . From there it is like putting on a condom .

I doubt the disco can be done , but it is something to look into .

[peteski]

I doubt the disco can be done , but it is something to look into .

Didn't that music fad come to pass in the early 80s? 

[Dave V]

Good news/questionable news...

At 0530 while getting ready for work I took the K4s and plopped her on the head end of a string of heavyweights.  She has snot on two drivers, BTW.  Well, she pulled like old times but then stalled on a turnout.  I didn't have time to troubleshoot the stall, so I hope it's not directly tied to sacrificing another driver.  I'm cautiously optimistic at this point that I have my old K4 back.

[victor miranda]

frustrating ain't it?

yeah you most likely put snot on your single best pick-up.
the tender is set to pick-up off all wheels and  the engine has
one side as a pickup.  I can imagine that a cleaning under the tender
or tune-up may be needed.

check the tender pick-ups one or two may have a bit-o-lint?

I have two other guy's loco here at miranda's workshop
and I am finding them a struggle to attend. 
I will work on your loco if needed, just not in the near term.

victor

[Dave V]

Victor, thanks for the offer.  I will continue to tinker with this engine.  After all, it's been through a lot already and it has very little collector value.

I'll put up a pic soon with her in her new, proper lettering and toned-down paint.  She looks like a working K4 and not a museum piece with crooked lettering.

The snot is an entirely reversible process, so that means I can be a bit more daring.

[nstars]

Dave,

I know Hans has finished a text for the N Scale Steam Addendum about K4's which also does describe how to replace the traction tires on the PSC K4's. He has done several of them. He also has suggestions for replacement tires. However, I don't want to spoil the N Scale Steam Addendum, but maybe you could drop him a line.

Marc

[victor miranda]

!!!
 brass in the n-trak steam addendum?

wow  I thought they didn't do that.

[Dave V]

Dave,

I know Hans has finished a text for the N Scale Steam Addendum about K4's which also does describe how to replace the traction tires on the PSC K4's. He has done several of them. He also has suggestions for replacement tires. However, I don't want to spoil the N Scale Steam Addendum, but maybe you could drop him a line.

Marc

Wow!  Which year?  Mine's the 2007 one...  I did an H10 kitbash in there.  But sadly, I wasn't able to find the article you referenced.

My K4s is actually running well now after some tweaking, but the Clover House decals I'd started putting on did not handle the manhandling well because I'd not yet sealed them with Dullcote.  So, pics will have to wait until replacement decals come.