Brass loco throws traction tire... Thoughts?

[Dave V]

Actually, for a photo shoot for GMR, you don't need to get the tire replaced, just don't shoot that side of the loco if it is obvious. Y'o'u might need a helper to get the train around the layout, but the 0-5-0 might be enough. Don't obsess.

I have an obscene amount of money invested in this loco.  Sure, of course, it doesn't need to run for the photo shoot...  But it will need to run when I want to pull my heavyweights.

[Dave V]

The parts or for the PSC K4. Isn't the PSC K4 the only brass K4?

Could well be.  Never thought about it, actually!

[Dave V]

Bullfrog snot is not the answer.

I'm ready to remove the pin that holds on all the rods and put on a traction tire (I have some around) but there's not obvious way to remove it.  The first and third drivers have screws, but the center driver has no hex nut, screw, or anything else, and man, it's wedged in there.  AUGH!!!

[superturbine]

Ill exchange you my k4 traction driver for 35.00 and aend it with the castings if you find no other solution

[Dave V]

Ill exchange you my k4 traction driver for 35.00 and aend it with the castings if you find no other solution

I've had a number of offers for traction drivers and such...  My problem right now is that I can't remove the valve gear.  There must be some magic holding the pin into the driver; I'm worried I'm going to mangle it if I manhandle it too much.

Right now I'll take any suggestion that gets the rods off the center driver...  I have some traction tires.

[victor miranda]

on brass locos the eccentric crank is soldered to the main crank

[Mark.S+10]

I use Kato GS-4 or Con-Cor Hudson traction tires to replace worn out Arnold 4-6-2 tires.  The Arnold has nearly 80" scale drivers.  The Kato tires have to stretch a bit to fit but don't come off.  The Con-Cor’s fit better and are a little thicker, but they will occasionally throw.  Of course you will have to loosen the crankshaft to get them on.

Have fun, Mark

[Dave V]

on brass locos the eccentric crank is soldered to the main crank

This is what I'm after.  I have traction tires, though thanks for all of the offers/suggestions.  I need to get the pin out.  So Victor, as you have had firsthand experience with this very loco, is the pin then soldered into the wheel?  If so, that's an exceedingly crappy design, and in which case I'll have to keep failing with the Bullfrog Snot.

The snot is too thick to fill in the groove evenly.

Could a traction tire be cut and applied using ACC, or is that temping fate?

[GaryHinshaw]

Crazy idea: how about filling the groove up to the tread with a slow-setting epoxy putty (slow setting so you have plenty of time to work it smooth and clean it).  Then you can apply BFS in a thin layer.  Not as god as replacing it, but you don't have much to lose.

[Dave V]

Good call on the epoxy...  So for now, while I watch the game, I'm letting a coat of snot dry on two drivers...  One in the groove (but it's not enough to fill) and one on the driver directly behind to try to make up for the loss of traction.

[victor miranda]

the eccentric crank is the part soldered.
apply heat to the eccentric crank and pull it off.

when I do them , I use rosin flux and heat and try to avoid adding solder.

when you want to reassemble, it is best to get the crank in place first
and add rosin flux and then a little  solder to fill if there are any gaps.

it is not hard,  you just need to know there are no options.
30 watts of iron is plenty.  get it hot and do what must be done
without doubt.

I find getting the eccentric crank off harder than replacing it.

victor

[Dave V]

So, Victor, how does one re-solder the pin without locking the eccentric crank in place?

[superturbine]

The crank will be locked in place.  Do not apple solder to the crank / rod connection.  This is a very simple desolder job.

[Dave V]

Heh, I'm having trouble picturing all of this...  The eccentric crank is soldered to the drive rod pin (?), but the side rod is also attached.  At what point do I apply the soldering iron, in from behind the wheel, or on the pin between the drive rod and eccentric crank?

Thanks for your help so far, BTW...  And sorry for my obvious density regarding this subject.  I'm a very visual guy and I'm having trouble picturing this.

[victor miranda]

this will seem a little long...

the side rod and the connecting rod are riding on the main crank.
oil them before you start if you are worried.
( I have never soldered anything to them while working on the eccentric)

the eccentric crank is soldered to the end of the main crank.
so heat the eccentric, it will get loose, try to get it off...
put some rosin on the outside of the eccentric not on the main-crank side.

I heat the eccentric from the outside and use a flat screwdriver on the backside.
most times it will slide off.  the co-ordination of keeping the iron on while lifting
with the screwdriver does not get the desired result.
just do it again. I am often able to get it off after two tries.

think; heat eccentric and then lift.
the reason putting it back is easy because you can use the iron to push it into place.

victor