Weekend Update 6/24/12

[pwnj]

+100 DKS 

[MichaelWinicki]

Very nice David!

What do you use for "rust"?

[Philip H]

@DKS - um, dude if you still need to "finish it" then your standards and everyone else's are still not in alignment. Of course, after the various WR&Ns and the James RIver BRanch . . I suppose I shouldn't be surprised . . .

[DKS]

Very nice David!

What do you use for "rust"?

Thanks, all. For rust I use a lot of different things, depending on the age and type of rust, usually by applying commercial patinas, such as Rustall, Dr. Ben's Realistic Rust, Dr. Ben's Weathered Rust and a couple of others, usually over a base coat of Floquil Weathered Black or Roof Brown. I'll also use powdered chalks, sometimes using unorthodox techniques, such as dipping a model in Rustall and then sprinkling on powdered chalk while still wet. I've also used Tom Mann's sea salt technique on occasion as well. But then, for ultimate realism I'll use real rust--some of the pieces of junk are made from scraps of old rusted tin cans.

@DKS - um, dude if you still need to "finish it" then your standards and everyone else's are still not in alignment. Of course, after the various WR&Ns and the James RIver BRanch . . I suppose I shouldn't be surprised . . .

Being as it's intended to be a diorama, then it well and truly needs to be 100% done, and it's not there yet. For example, in the last shot you'll notice the road pavement is unfinished, and the landscaping around it is just dirt--not even weeds.

[Packer]

DKS, that's looks great, even unfinished. Roads with sudden drops off are pretty common here in florida, i suppose New Jersey might be better, lol

I picked up an almost finished project loco. It's a custom-painted and detailed P2K SD7 I had bought off of ebay.

This is the picture used in the listing:


The good: It has a DSR15 decoder, the beacon has a 1.5v bulb (not controlled by the decoder yet), and the paint work is really good (will look better after a glosscoat to hide the decal film)

The bad: It was missing a door, missing windows, air tanks were floating around in the box, runs really noisy, mechanism is dirty

I fixed the missing door by using a door from my busted up BN GP18. The seperation line on the GP18 door and the SD7 line up perfectly, and the colors are almost spot on. I just had to glue it shut. The airtanks were re-attached by drilling out the hole for it in the frame, and then CAing it. As for the glazing, I tried the ones from P2K GP9s and atlas SD24s and they both were too large. AMB doesn't make a glazing set for the P2K SD7/9, so I'm trying to hunt a set down. The windows and a speed recorder would finish this SD7 off.

As for the GP5, still trying get the bodywork on that nose right, then it's a couple of bucks on parts and I'm done with it. The Fs are at a standstill until I pick up more detail parts.

[JSL]

Looks good Ed. What are you using for the earth / dirt?

[seusscaboose]

Been making some progress on the NCR shelf:

i like

[seusscaboose]

Looks good Ed. What are you using for the earth / dirt?

If I know Ed, it is grout...  takes a little practice... but the results look pretty good so far

[jereising]

The bridge by request - here's the original as seen a week ago from behind:



And the layout side - note the height of the plastic and that it is two pieces (split in the middle):



Here's the first change - the plastic is now one piece and extends lower and not quite so high on top:



And after a trip to the paint shop:



There's more to come.  I've had this project in mind for quite a while now; it's time!

[rogergperkins]

Mr. Reising, what kind of plastic is the clear material you show?  Thanks.
I need to add a 6 foot barrier to one edge of a peninsula on my layout.  I have started with 2' x 3" x 1/4" bass wood, but am open to a clear material.
Thanks.

[skytop35]

Finished a new sleeper for my Pioneer Limited.

[seusscaboose]

Mr. Reising, what kind of plastic is the clear material you show?  Thanks.
I need to add a 6 foot barrier to one edge of a peninsula on my layout.  I have started with 2' x 3" x 1/4" bass wood, but am open to a clear material.
Thanks.

plexiglass / clear plastic at your local hardware store (big box variety or local mom and pop)...  they will custom cut it for you as well...

[Philip H]

@Bill Denton - W.O.W.

 

[BCR 570]

After a very hectic last few months, things are starting to slow down at work as the school year draws to a close, and I will now be getting some modelling time back.  Some of that has been spent on assembly and testing of the new boxcar from Briggs Models, which are seen here during a test run up and down the helix:




I also acquired a pair of vertical diesel fuel storage tanks from IMEX for the mechanical shop tracks at Chetwynd.  I had previously acquired a pair of cast resin tanks from Period Miniatures which were the correct height, but were two feet short in diameter.  As a result they looked too narrow.  The IMEX tanks are the correct height and diameter (21 ' high x 12' wide).  The plastic ladders are a little heavy and will need to be replaced with something etched, but these tanks will serve nicely until something better comes along.  Here are the new tanks sitting in place on the layout at Chetwynd, together with my cardboard mock-ups for the mechanical shop and fuel pumphouse:

 


During the past few weeks I have also been experimenting with painting and weathering track.  I have now commenced painting of the track sections for the mainline.  The first step was to spray them with a light gray primer coat:




The next step is to stain the ties with a wash of Raw Umber and paint thinner:




The third step, which I hope to undertake this afternoon, will be painting the rails Roof Brown.  Additional photographs and comments will be posted in the thread titled Painting and Weathering Track.  I am also in the process of cleaning up the layout in preparation for hosting the North Shore Modellers Group this coming Wednesday evening.


Tim

[jereising]

Mr. Reising, what kind of plastic is the clear material you show?  Thanks.
I need to add a 6 foot barrier to one edge of a peninsula on my layout.  I have started with 2' x 3" x 1/4" bass wood, but am open to a clear material.
Thanks.

MR?  But seriously...ohhhkay...

Mr. Perkins, that's Lexan, I believe.  Got it at Lowes, and because I needed 61" it cost a lung.  They did cut it for me, and that's when they found out their cutter wasn't at all accurate - had a good half inch of slop in it, totally unacceptable.  But thanks to a patient employee, we got it worked out.  It should be worth it!