Author Topic: Island Modelworks SW1001s  (Read 10542 times)

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Iain

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #45 on: September 21, 2008, 08:21:28 PM »
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Are not the trucks for the Atlas MP15 the standard Atlas fair?  I thought they were interchangeable with the ones in, say, a GP30?

If this is the case, the LL trucks will drop right in.  I've been meaning to buy a MP15 mechanism to play with this idea.
Thanks much,
Mairi Dulaney, RHCE
Member, Free Software Foundation and Norfolk Southern Historical Society

http://jdulaney.com

victor miranda

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #46 on: September 21, 2008, 10:47:45 PM »
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ummm

the mp-15 has the worng kind of truck for the sw1001.

the Atlas mp15 has a standard Atlas truck in it.

my test of the LL truck is that it does not mate with the mp-15 chassis.
I will not mind being told what I did wrong however...




Iain

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #47 on: September 21, 2008, 11:35:10 PM »
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I have put the LL SW truck into both the Atlas GP38 and B23-7.  I have not yet tried the MP15 due to lack of funds to purchase one.
Thanks much,
Mairi Dulaney, RHCE
Member, Free Software Foundation and Norfolk Southern Historical Society

http://jdulaney.com

Chris333

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #48 on: September 21, 2008, 11:51:26 PM »
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I once put a Atlas GP truck into a LL SW frame. If the MP and GP trucks are the same it should work.

victor miranda

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #49 on: September 26, 2008, 12:19:31 AM »
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I figured I give yall a progress report.

in my copious free time I made this.


It needs to have the flywheels added and I have to do a little tune up work
on shaft alignments.

Right now it does run. ... and about the same as a ll switcher...

victor
 

Chris333

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #50 on: September 26, 2008, 03:26:56 AM »
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Victor,  Cool stuff!

How do you keep downward pressure on the bearing blocks?

I have in the past made brackets like your styrene ones, but out of brass and they extend hight up so I can fold the tabs on to the bearing to hold it.

I'm sure you have a tight fit, but couldn't they work their way up and lose contact with the worm gear?

SirTainly

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #51 on: September 26, 2008, 05:03:19 AM »
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Wow..slick chassis Victor.

Got my shell yesterday, but the steps are a bit warped :(

Iain

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #52 on: September 26, 2008, 08:11:05 AM »
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I think I've got a way to repower my new DS4-4-660.
Thanks much,
Mairi Dulaney, RHCE
Member, Free Software Foundation and Norfolk Southern Historical Society

http://jdulaney.com

Ed Kapuscinski

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #53 on: September 26, 2008, 10:07:32 AM »
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That's right along the lines of my own thinking, but done by someone with much better skill.

My only concern there is if the PC board will clear the sills.


victor miranda

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #54 on: September 26, 2008, 11:18:36 AM »
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Hi Chris,

I love it. you hit on the one operational problem I had when I first set the chassis to running.

If you look closely under your blue arrow (how did you do that ?)
you will see a ph-bnz tab.
That is wedged between the block and the slot/post

Once I have a little more confidence that I have the parts in the right places,
I plan to glue a plate over the top.

Hi Ed,
Your concern for the sill dimension is one I share...
however at some point the loco does have a sill
and this chassis is about low as the trucks allow.

There are some options, and most are very problematic.
so lets mate the two and see what it looks like.
After that we can explore those options.

SirTainly,
I can install a warp,
I dunno how to remove 'em....

Iain,
lets watch Ed jump,
I'll sell you this one.... 

now where is the evil grin emoticon?

victor

Ed Kapuscinski

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #55 on: September 26, 2008, 11:23:56 AM »
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I'll clean up the shells and bring them to Timonium to check out.

You know, if this works, you should definitely contact Island Modelworks and sell them some, or sell them the plans, or something!

daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #56 on: September 26, 2008, 01:37:38 PM »
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In related news, my SW1500 shell is complete. I origonally glued the air tanks onto the still. When Rich ran into problems milling the ConCor SW1200 frames, I had to hack the old walkway off and put a new part on. I have split the airtanks in half, which will alow the CC chassis to be used with a minimal of grinding. I wonder if this will work for the SW1001 as well. Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the shell?

Victor... you got further then me on the chassis fab. I gave up months ago. I may copy your ideas for my NW5 though.
'In my great and unmatched wisdom'

up1950s

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #57 on: September 26, 2008, 02:41:40 PM »
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Here is the underside , never mind the tube in the thing , I was just using it to maintain an adjusted distance to re-plumb the end sills after some resetting via a little crack and a little crack there method, or did I use the hot water treatment , I forget .






« Last Edit: September 26, 2008, 02:45:10 PM by up1950s »

daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #58 on: September 26, 2008, 03:34:39 PM »
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How wide is the inside of the shell compaired with the MP15 hood?

Rich, did you get my PM over on Atlas?
'In my great and unmatched wisdom'

victor miranda

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Re: Island Modelworks SW1001s
« Reply #59 on: September 26, 2008, 03:40:39 PM »
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hi daniel_leavitt2000

sorry to hear of a failed attempt.
(this is very likely to be a failure also)

I knew I could build this chassis, so I have made the attempt.
there is a more complicated way and I am not at all sure
I have room for over the top of the motor for the attempt

this will eventually work because this motor will fit
under the hood. the armature is a touch over 9mm across
and If the hood is really 10mm across
we have about  a half a milimeter of spare space on each side to get  the chassis
from one truck to the other.

my problem is the truck requires an 8 mm hole or more important
there has to be a ring that the truck rides on.
and there is not much space left to get the sides to attach to the truck 'ring'
and you have to be able to get in there ti fix or clean or adjust
so some options are a problem...

ooops I am building again

I posted the photo as a heads up
I'll take another If I get any progress tonight
and I'll include the bottom.
It really is a piece of one sided printed circuit board
I cut a center line to isolate the pickups...
victor