Island Modelworks SW1001s

[DKS]

...perhaps going a little AZL with it would work, you know, replacing the sides with etched brass.

Nope, won't work. Goes against all engineering principles.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Bumped for Victor!

The problem here is the narrow internal width. They should be landing here in B'mroe some time in the next few days. I'll let you know the dimensions when I get them.

[up1950s]

Width inside hood .363
Width inside cab .638
Length inside hood .1.965
Length inside cab .482
Length inside cab rear step .010
Total inside length not counting end steps 2.568
Depth of hood to bottom sill indent under walkway .545
Depth of hood at slope at cab front .478
Depth of cab at side wall to bottom sill indent under walkway .634
Depth of cab under the cab step to the sideframe lower edge .195 

[delamaize]

the problem with the Kato Critter chassis trucks is the wheel base. that is the reason randy and I used them for thew Climax's, and why randy and others has used them for 44 ton switchers.

now on the same note, you might be able to modify 2 of the tomix commuter car chassis to get a power unit for this thing. using only one chassis will only yield one truck drive, one would have to us 2 to get a 2 truck drive. Heavy Imphasis on HEAVE MODIFICATION.

Here is a link to one at plazaJapan's ebay site. this is the chassis Randy recommends for his 70 ton switcher kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Powered-Motorized-Chassis-Tomix-TM-03_W0QQitemZ120304240990QQihZ002QQcategoryZ486QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

not sure, but I think that this one may have 2 power trucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Powered-Motorized-Chassis-Tomix-TM-08_W0QQitemZ120270589575QQihZ002QQcategoryZ486QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

[Ed Kapuscinski]

My thoughts this far were actually to fab up a chassis for it out of plastruct and use parts from other mechs, like the LL trucks (or Kato NW2 trucks), the motor from an MP15 (if people would stop frying them!!).

It's definitely going to be a project... and when it's done, I'll have to do the SECOND one I ordered (cause I remember seeing them in nose to nose pairs as a kid.

[victor miranda]

are the nw2 or ll 1200 trucks proper for this model?

now I have to hunt photos...

v

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I don't know about the LIRR ones, but I know that the CR units used the AAR-A trucks like the NW2 and SWs use. There may be minute differences, but if there are, DON'T TELL ME!!!!

[victor miranda]

the photos say to me to use the sw trucks...

v

[Mark5]

see the railwire links ....

http://yardlimit.railfan.net

[Chris333]

File the journals flat and glue on roller bearings from other scrap trucks.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

See, I told you not to tell me, you told me...

Actually, I was anticipating that one.

Looking at the proto pictures, it's gotten me thinking MAYBE I should do what EMD did and just replace the hood and cab on top of a 1200 mech.

Then all I've got to solve is the width issue.

Richie, do you happen to have a reading on the thickness of the shell?

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The flexcoil trucks should be available from Con-Cor... they were used in the aero-train.

[up1950s]

See, I told you not to tell me, you told me...

Actually, I was anticipating that one.

Looking at the proto pictures, it's gotten me thinking MAYBE I should do what EMD did and just replace the hood and cab on top of a 1200 mech.

Then all I've got to solve is the width issue.

Richie, do you happen to have a reading on the thickness of the shell?

This is a hard measurement to take , without sawing one in half .

Inside hood to outside sill is .194.
Outside sill to outside hood is .140
So the math says .054 for the hood thickness .

Cab side wall is .054 on a direct measurement .

Note these castings will give slightly different readings at different spots , but by and large the numbers should be good within .005 .

[Ed Kapuscinski]

So the hood and sill is one piece? Interesting...

Basically, my thought was how much material I can remove from inside the shell.

Did you try that?

[up1950s]

So the hood and sill is one piece? Interesting...

Basically, my thought was how much material I can remove from inside the shell.

Did you try that?

No , the effort to thin the hood evenly is high as is the risk for a blow-out . Crossed my mind though . I thought of using the mill as well but once resin gets thin its strength to resist a finger squeeze really drops off . Risk just wasn't worth it to attempt .