Island Modelworks SW1001s

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I knew I was about to get called for being a slacker! I haven't touched it since that weekend. I've been tied up with CRHS stuff. Hopefully after this weekend I can get back to the important stuff!

[victor miranda]

you are gonna hafta slack a lot harder than that
for me to call you a slacker.

You see, I have a carefully printed (suitable for framing and guess why it ain't framed?)
piece of paper stating I will never graduate from slacker school...


I was wondering about it and thought you might have had chance
to do some testing
and was avoiding telling me the bad news or such...

v

[victor miranda]

ok this is a nudge.

news ?

victor

[wm3798]

Don't bother Ed... he's making trees... ;D

Uncle Slacker

[Bob Bufkin]

Lee, you trying to say that Ed has too much slack action in his caboose?

[victor miranda]

yalls killing me ;D

[Robbman]

truck wheelbase 8'-00" and truck centres 30' according to:

http://www.thedieselshop.us/Data%20EMD%20SW1000.HTML

30' is not the wheelbase... that's the distance from the leading axle to trailing axle.  Bolster to bolster on a SW1000 is the same as nearly all EMD switchers up to the MP15.... 22'

[victor miranda]

wheel base....

I alway took it as the distance from the first axle to the last axle.

and with a 22 foot bolster to bolster
plus 4 feet to each outside axle...
you end up at 30 feet....

I was looking for the truck center to center and I hit 22 feet.
I got that from proportion of photos and measuring the LL unit
they all seemed the same numbers.

so that is the chassis ....

victor

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Where did my post go? Odd... anyway, last night I meant to post that I HAD actually started looking at this, and realized that the frames were too long. How do I trim PC board? Razor saw?

[victor miranda]

Hi Ed,
I left them what I hoped would be a little long.
I used a cutoff wheel to shape printed circiut boards.

they are a lot like fiberglass....

the fit was otherwise good ?

v

[randgust]

Sorry I missed this one....  There's some great stuff going on here.

I suppose if you left me alone in a room with a free pile of parts and asked me what I'd do with it, I'd probably take the Tomytec drive parts and custom-fit a frame to the right wheelbase.  Since the darn thing doesn't have sideframes anyway, that's not an issue.

So far, my very favorite conversion with those parts has been the rebuilt Whitcomb centercab, where I completely pulled the original Tomytec motor and flywheel and put in a Kato critter motor (12v) married with the Gizmozone gearhead that normally has the 3.5v motor the same size.  That thing is SLICK; smooth, slow, powerful, and whisper quiet.  If you had it in a design that allowed you to overweight one end (like my GE 70-tonner) on the cab end, the one-truck drive is much less of an issue.  The SW1001 sure qualifies.  One good thing about this is that you can set the wheelbase to whatever you want, and the resin frame that holds all this isn't that incredibly difficult to master up and reproduce.



This sounds like a fun project, actually.  It's a little pricey though, because you're approaching this with a Tomytec truck, a Kato Critter Motor, and a Gizmozone gearhead.  I'm curious if anybody thinks this is really a viable concept.

The other thing is that the Tomytec flanges are deep, although with split-frame axles like Kato you can turn them down in a motor tool.  The truck design is really good, just as good as Kato, and the axis of the truck is on the universal joint so there's no driveshaft swinging around as on the Kato 11-105.   I don't think the Kato critter drive would work on this at all; wheels are too small (27") and the truck wheelbase is 5'6".  I use Critters on the Climax kits and the 70-tonner; the Tomytec parts are on this Whitcomb switcher kit and the powered boxcar.

The critter motor on edge is darn narrow, don't think that would be an issue at all.  It's in the shell of my 44-tonner, and that's as narrow as it comes.  I tipped the motor up on the Whitcomb frame to work with the TM03 flywheel, but that doesn't have to be that way either.  It could be mounted lower and flat.  The Whitcomb shell is way,way,way too narrow for anything but this approach as it has that distinctive taper to it which defeats any other approach but this, so this isn't new to me.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ok, so it's been 12 years for this thread but I'm bringing it back from the dead because I've had a huge breakthrough.

I realized "hey moron, you have some SW1500 shells, why not combine the hood with the 1001 cab?".

Now, I know that an SW1500 hood is NOT an SW1001 hood with an extra exhaust stack. It's close, but there are some discrepancies (but I'm not gonna tell you what they are). Similarly, the SW1500 frame is NOT an SW1001 frame, but again, I'm not calling out the differences.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so last night I got out the razor saw and got to work.

So far it looks like it'll work. It's not perfect. Far from it in fact, but I'm happy with the progress.

Much more to go, but I think this may get me my 90% SW1001 with a minimum of craziness.

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[amato1969]

Zombie thread indeed, but definite Reading goodness!!!

[wcfn100]

Doesn't the SW1500 sill sit higher with deeper steps?

Jason

[jpf94]

Ed,

Nice adjustment and thanks for bringing the thread back.  I wonder now with 3D printing if the frame could be printed to fit the actual shell for the SW1001?  With Victor's motor and flywheel I think that could work.