An N-Possible journal

[turbowhiz]

OK… what is a TBX and what is an LBX?  How are these two different from a SBX?

Jim

Good point! Probably should publish more on the new stuff coming.

LBX boxes are oriented to locomotive installs, but not exclusively. The box outline is effectively like 1015 type box, so they fill in pilot gaps. They also allow for considerably more lateral coupler travel then a SBX box, so they’re also great for passenger cars.

They’re supplied with two lids; The thick lid is for traditional 1015 replacements. The thin lid is for Kato locomotives specifically although I’m sure there will be other utility too. You can install the LBX into a Kato locomotive without any modifications at all.



The TBX is similar to the LBX, but its entirely topless. Its useful for offset shank replacements, like MTL cabooses. It’s also useful for Kato locomotives, and is again designed to fit a Kato pilot perfectly. Kato coupler heights are all over the place, so depending on the model, the TBX or LBX is appropriate.



Also coming soon are the SBM and SBL boxes. Effectively elongated SBX type boxes, they match the 201 and 301 shank lengths.

SBM



SBL

[James Costello]

Looking good Andrew - any idea when we can see the new boxes in the shops?

[turbowhiz]

Looking good Andrew - any idea when we can see the new boxes in the shops?

Targeting the end of the month on the TBX/LBX, probably another month for the SBM/SBL, assuming I don't run into any packaging issues on those.

[James Costello]

Targeting the end of the month on the TBX/LBX, probably another month for the SBM/SBL, assuming I don't run into any packaging issues on those.

Awesome, thanks!

@turbowhiz knowing what you know now, what's the best approach for ScaleTrains locos (C44s, AC44s, SD40-2s, etc)? The forthcoming LBX?

[Jimbo]

I learned something today…

Always read ALL the documentation!

I’ve slowly been converting rolling stock over to N-Possible.  Most of what I have is Micro Trains products:  PS1 boxcars, twin bay hoppers, some tank cars, etc.  All of these had truck-mounted couplers.  Because the couplers are truck mounted, there’s a gap between the top of the coupler and the bottom of the car floor, where a body-mounted coupler attaches.

In the process of converting these cars, the couplers were consistently too high.  I struggled to understand what I was doing wrong; I thought I might be installing them crooked. But it was happening on EVERY MT truck-to-body mount conversion.

Well, today I looked over the documentation for the SBX and compared that to Micro Trains’ documentation for the 1015.

The bottom of the floor of MT cars with truck-mounted couplers is 7.4mm.  But cars that shipped from the factory with body mounted couplers are 7.1mm.  When you buy 1015 couplers, they include shims to allow these couplers to be used for both types of installations.  (No shim when replacing a body mounted coupler; shim needed when replacing truck-mounted couplers.)  I had assumed that the “hat” included with SBX couplers acted as this shim, but it doesn’t.  With the hat, the floor of the car should be 7.1mm, not 7.4mm.  So, even with the hat, I still need to add a shim.

At least now I know.  And now I need to figure out a source for 0.3mm shims.  (On the plus side, the results I am getting from my MT installations are consistent, and they do play well with each other.  So at least I have the rest of the process figured out.)

I hope others find this information useful.  In the meantime, I guess my conversions are on hold.  ( Feel free to offer suggestions.)

@turbowhiz :  how about offering a “thick hat” option (say, 0.3mm thicker!) with SBX for these types of installations?

Jim

[Sokramiketes]

I learned something today…

Always read ALL the documentation!

I’ve slowly been converting rolling stock over to N-Possible.  Most of what I have is Micro Trains products:  PS1 boxcars, twin bay hoppers, some tank cars, etc.  All of these had truck-mounted couplers.  Because the couplers are truck mounted, there’s a gap between the top of the coupler and the bottom of the car floor, where a body-mounted coupler attaches.

In the process of converting these cars, the couplers were consistently too high.  I struggled to understand what I was doing wrong; I thought I might be installing them crooked. But it was happening on EVERY MT truck-to-body mount conversion.

Well, today I looked over the documentation for the SBX and compared that to Micro Trains’ documentation for the 1015.

The bottom of the floor of MT cars with truck-mounted couplers is 7.4mm.  But cars that shipped from the factory with body mounted couplers are 7.1mm.  When you buy 1015 couplers, they include shims to allow these couplers to be used for both types of installations.  (No shim when replacing a body mounted coupler; shim needed when replacing truck-mounted couplers.)  I had assumed that the “hat” included with SBX couplers acted as this shim, but it doesn’t.  With the hat, the floor of the car should be 7.1mm, not 7.4mm.  So, even with the hat, I still need to add a shim.

At least now I know.  And now I need to figure out a source for 0.3mm shims.  (On the plus side, the results I am getting from my MT installations are consistent, and they do play well with each other.  So at least I have the rest of the process figured out.)

I hope others find this information useful.  In the meantime, I guess my conversions are on hold.  ( Feel free to offer suggestions.)

@turbowhiz :  how about offering a “thick hat” option (say, 0.3mm thicker!) with SBX for these types of installations?

Jim

A good opportunity to lower the car!  You can file bolsters, or you can go to a BLMA style lowered bolster truck. 

[Ike the BN Freak]

Atlas GP40 replacement coupler box 3d printed using short shank.  .stl belolw.   

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9RTSs22dP6c-atlas-coupler-box?sharecode=X6MkIuG5qrP3DcHNWDKy8DbVaQRhGG2_B4xEY-GKvwI

(Attachment Link)

@turbowhiz any chance you'd do a locomotive box similar to this?

[Iain]

I learned something today…

Always read ALL the documentation!

I’ve slowly been converting rolling stock over to N-Possible.  Most of what I have is Micro Trains products:  PS1 boxcars, twin bay hoppers, some tank cars, etc.  All of these had truck-mounted couplers.  Because the couplers are truck mounted, there’s a gap between the top of the coupler and the bottom of the car floor, where a body-mounted coupler attaches.

In the process of converting these cars, the couplers were consistently too high.  I struggled to understand what I was doing wrong; I thought I might be installing them crooked. But it was happening on EVERY MT truck-to-body mount conversion.

Well, today I looked over the documentation for the SBX and compared that to Micro Trains’ documentation for the 1015.

The bottom of the floor of MT cars with truck-mounted couplers is 7.4mm.  But cars that shipped from the factory with body mounted couplers are 7.1mm.  When you buy 1015 couplers, they include shims to allow these couplers to be used for both types of installations.  (No shim when replacing a body mounted coupler; shim needed when replacing truck-mounted couplers.)  I had assumed that the “hat” included with SBX couplers acted as this shim, but it doesn’t.  With the hat, the floor of the car should be 7.1mm, not 7.4mm.  So, even with the hat, I still need to add a shim.

At least now I know.  And now I need to figure out a source for 0.3mm shims.  (On the plus side, the results I am getting from my MT installations are consistent, and they do play well with each other.  So at least I have the rest of the process figured out.)

I hope others find this information useful.  In the meantime, I guess my conversions are on hold.  ( Feel free to offer suggestions.)

@turbowhiz :  how about offering a “thick hat” option (say, 0.3mm thicker!) with SBX for these types of installations?

Jim

better than shims, file down the bolsters so the cars sit at a more prototypical ride height

[Mark5]

I learned something today…

Always read ALL the documentation!

Most of what I have is Micro Trains products:  PS1 boxcars,

Some discussion on MTL PS1 ride height fixing here (7 pages!): https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45350.0

[dandopinski]

The stirrups should be as high as the truck bearings. Just think if you were a trainman and you had to swing your leg up there as the car is rolling along...if it looks too high then the car is probably too.

[GaryHinshaw]

This is a short delta update on the Athearn Auto-Max which I originally covered in this post.

The latest run of these cars ship with body mount couplers which accept a very straightforward urs conversion with a short shank.  I had to file down the inside of the box lid a little bit to avoid binding, but it was otherwise very simple:



The height is perfect:

[turbowhiz]

@turbowhiz :  how about offering a “thick hat” option (say, 0.3mm thicker!) with SBX for these types of installations?

Jim

The SBX hat does by design function as a shim. It shims the box down .4 MM when using it, leaving the top profile the same as a stock 1015 box.

I’ll just highlight again that the front of the box has a striker plate detail that is also .4 MM high. Depending on the install scenario, you might need to remove the striker plate when not using the hat if its not sufficient clear of the floor/car body. This is very important, as if you leave the striker plate in plate without the hat and its not free of obstruction, you will end up with a out of level box which will lead to coupling issues. When the hat is installed, the striker plate height is now level with the hat height, so you don’t need to remove the striker plate even of the box does not extend beyond the floor.

If you don’t want to lower the car as others are suggesting, you could use a second hat… Chop off the ears and remove the holding pin, and you’re going to have what should be a perfect thickness shim for your purpose.

If there is substantial demand for thicker hats I could produce them easily enough, but it’s probably better just to the lower the car I’m thinking.

[turbowhiz]

@turbowhiz any chance you'd do a locomotive box similar to this?

The LBX is very similar; The tapered edge on the top you can accomplish by filing the thick top lid to a 45 degree angle and you're there.

Bespoke per model box designs are possible; Its very easy to design them. The bigger problem is the complexity of producing/inventorying/supporting (i.e. "Which box do I need for X") a massive range of bespoke products. So at least at this time, I'm developing things with the widest range of universal appeal and utility. In time, more bespoke options for specific scenarios will make it into the product line, but starting with at least scenarios that require a bespoke part to accomplish the conversion.

[turbowhiz]

Awesome, thanks!

@turbowhiz knowing what you know now, what's the best approach for ScaleTrains locos (C44s, AC44s, SD40-2s, etc)? The forthcoming LBX?

The Scaletrains SD-40-2 works perfectly with a LBX with a thick lid, although you can URS convert those too.

The Scaletrains GE’s at this point in time are converted with URS shim in the factory box, because the box shape is not the same as a 1015 style, at least specifically the ET-44’s and the -9’s, which use the same type of box. These might merit a custom NP box at some point in the future to make conversions simple, but it’s not a high priority.

I think the GP-30’s has a narrow box, but people have URS converted those successfully too.

[turbowhiz]

The ESM GSC Well Car

These cars have MTL offset shank couplers in a integrated box setup. On the surface of it, you might assume these are going to be a problematic conversion. While certainly not drop in, they’re considerably easier to convert then you might assume with the new TBX topless box.

Factory Setup



Stock End Profile




These cars snap together, with the inner metal cast section snapping into the plastic body. Note that the coupler/stirrup section has a physically separate coupler box support block that at least in my example wasn’t glued in. This makes this conversion super easy.



Just cut out of the car end section to match the profile of the floor section.




I don’t love glue in installations, but sometimes it’s the only way. The TBX fits perfectly here, and you can glue the front of the box into the car so there is little risk of accidently glueing the coupler part here. I used tire glue.



Trim the stirrups off the coupler box bottom section. They are held in as originally designed by the metal underframe section.



The car end profile is considerably improved!



Perfect height too!