An N-Possible journal

[GaryHinshaw]

You're almost making me regret getting rid of the bulk of my N scale fleet  😢

Good!   

[GaryHinshaw]

Two quick updates on the Scale Trains auto racks:

1. I tried converting a second car today and I had an issue welding the replacement styrene box lid to the floor of the car.  I used Bondene on the first car and that worked great, but the plastic on the second car seems slightly different.  The bond is ok, but I can pry the part off with a bit of force, whereas I was not able to budge the part on the first conversion.  The two cars were from different runs of the model, so maybe they changed their plastic formula?  (The problematic car is from the second run.)  I'll try some other glues and report back.

2. I'd say that 18" is a bare minimum radius for a short shank coupler.  Below is a shot of two cars on an 18" curve showing that the end details are almost touch each other.  I'm also not sure how these will do coupled to a shorter car on an 18" curve.    My initial testing with that has been ok, but not extensive.  I've been placing them in the last third of a train, so not under full stress.  I think they'll still need more weight and possibly a longer shank, or one that can rotate a bit more.  Auto racks have always been a challenge for Tehachapi, BC.

[Sokramiketes]

If you're up for loosing a bit on the appearance side with the scale box... the loco box might be a better option with more side swing on these autoracks.

Andrew made a live change to our business cars when we were out by you.  They were jumping with the scale box and a quick swap to the loco box left them running sweet for the rest of the visit!

[Maletrain]

Waiting for the locobox to be available, mainly for loco conversions, but also for some cars.  Any estimate for the date?

[Jbub]

I though autoracks had a longer coupler shank length. If so, would a medium or long shank be more appropriate and give extra space between cars on a curve?

[garethashenden]

I will take a picture, sometime when the cat is not trying to play with the train, but the Bachmann GE 70 tonner is the easiest Universal Retrofit yet! Short shank, kept the lid from the Bachmann box, about 5 minutes total.

[GaryHinshaw]

If you're up for loosing a bit on the appearance side with the scale box... the loco box might be a better option with more side swing on these autoracks.

I think a wider swing is exactly what is called for here.  The loco box samples I have are too wide to fit in the existing ST pocket, but I have an idea for a 3d print that should accomplish the same outcome and hopefully address the gluing challenge alluded to above with some of the cars.  If it works, I'll post the part here.

Glad to hear about the business car experience.  I guess I didn't notice that a loco box swap was made (or I just forgot).

I though autoracks had a longer coupler shank length. If so, would a medium or long shank be more appropriate and give extra space between cars on a curve?

I had that impression too, but I was checking photos and it seems like these cars have short shanks, for example:

https://www.railcarphotos.com/pix/133/TTGX_697635_133565_Cajon_CA_John_Schmeling_2022_09_17.jpg

They are pretty closely coupled and the N-P short shank captures this well.  I think a slightly wider swing should be all that is needed.  I certainly hope so because these cars have been sitting in a drawer for too long, and they're too nice not to run!

[Missaberoad]

Keep in mind in that photo the cars are under buff... when they are under draft the cushion drawbars have alot of travel and have longer exposed drawbars. You could probably get away with a longer shank if you chose.

[turbowhiz]

Keep in mind in that photo the cars are under buff... when they are under draft the cushion drawbars have alot of travel and have longer exposed drawbars. You could probably get away with a longer shank if you chose.

Exactly this! End of car cushioning devices have a lot of travel in the coupler, so your distance between cars is variable depending on train dynamics on cars so equipped, like autoracks.

Coupled joint, the car on the right is a MultiMax car.


I generally feel that modeling the EOC couplers under draft is the way to go, as they spend more time under draft then buff. Or you can have downgrade trains and upgrade trains modeled differently.

The scalebox has a limited amount of lateral coupler travel, and is more restrictive then the prototype in this case. As I recall the coupler slot width on the ST MM is pretty much spot on prototype width. It is very high riding, and I did lower a lot of these cars when converting them to prototype NP couplers.

If you're not lowering the car, then I'd just do a URS with a medium shank, and create clearance for the lateral motion of the coupler. Trim the URS retain post extension entirely. In any case, you probably want more swing on the coupler here then a SBX line box provides, given the length of the car.

[cjm413]

And flatcars are always a question. One of the best is still the GHQ 53’ AAR flat.

Screw right to the deck, and a 4mm screw length is flush with the deck on top.

I wouldn’t mind lowering the car a bit further, but that’s major surgery to move the coupler pocket up into the deck.

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Would a URS series in either a MTL 1015 or Accumate box mounted upside down without the lid work?

[cjm413]

First application I've personally found so far for the medium shank, Micro Trains ACF 3-bay covered hoppers.
Scalebox, no hat, trim the top lip, and filing a slight notch in the end cage piece is likely necessary.

FYI - Trainworx 100T trucks mounted "backwards" will give you the correct truck spacing on MTL's ACF 4650 (also applicable to their ACF 2980 and Evans 4780)

[vermonter_railfan]

Microtrains 48' Well Car AKA "70 foot" Husky Stack - Long Shank universal and Dremel needed

So I initially wanted to convert my fleet of ARZC well cars to Npossible when the couplers first released. But I did not realize how intense of a install it was going to be so I have been holding off. After a few train shows dealing with really bad slinky effect and random uncoupling with these cars I finally have decided to attempt the conversion. The conversion isn't as intense as I initially thought but you will need a Dremel or some sort of cutting machine to make the conversion work. Unfortunately using a Scalebox makes the coupler sit way too low against the gauge so using the universal was needed. Long Shank couplers ended up being the best choice so far for this conversion.

First off I remove all the coupler parts and trucks. I then used my handheld Dremel and carefully cut between the coupler box and the truck pin hole to remove some material to allow the coupler to swing. I also trimmed the very end of the coupler box sides to help with range of motion. From there it's a matter of installing the universal and placing the factory coupler box lid back into place.

Now these cars definitely have some play in the end frame with how they are assembled/made, so keep that in mind while checking the height gauge. I also checked between proper 33" wheels and 36" wheels. 36 inch wheels bring the height nearly to the correct height for the gauge as the 33" are too low. But if you're running a unit train of these like I will be, it's not a huge issue if you go with the 33" (ARZC had 25 of these cars for a "hay" train).

If anyone has a better way to do this conversion I am all ears.










36" Tangent axles/wheels ↓

[turbowhiz]

Microtrains 48' Well Car AKA "70 foot" Husky Stack - Long Shank universal and Dremel needed

If anyone has a better way to do this conversion I am all ears.

These cars have low couplers from the factory, and I believe the 33” wheels are prototypical on these cars.



I found my example, and your 301 URS install is identical to how I approached this conversion myself, and it’s probably the easiest option. Always cool to see my stuff being used in the wild as I’d conceived!



A little low, based on the car starting low..




That said, I had modified one of these cars in the before times to use a TSC, and had in the process removed the original box sides and post. This meant that a retrofit conversion wasn't going to work anymore, and since I had a “broken end” I figured let’s try one of the new TBX boxes to sort it out.




(101-TBX)

It works well too, no bolster milling required, just a new hole to mount the screw after decking off the original box components. There is enough thickness in the top to mount a screw and have it secure the box, I tapped for a M 1.2 screw. Adequate truck clearance is there too. Pros are since the tolerances are tighter you gain just a hint of height. It’s debatable if it’s substantially better or easier than a URS install, but I’m putting it out there....




The TBX along with the LBX should be shipping to dealers by the end of the month.

[vermonter_railfan]

These cars have low couplers from the factory, and I believe the 33” wheels are prototypical on these cars.



I found my example, and your 301 URS install is identical to how I approached this conversion myself, and it’s probably the easiest option. Always cool to see my stuff being used in the wild as I’d conceived!

A little low, based on the car starting low..

It works well too, no bolster milling required, just a new hole to mount the screw after decking off the original box components. There is enough thickness in the top to mount a screw and have it secure the box, I tapped for a M 1.2 screw. Adequate truck clearance is there too. Pros are since the tolerances are tighter you gain just a hint of height. It’s debatable if it’s substantially better or easier than a URS install, but I’m putting it out there....
The TBX along with the LBX should be shipping to dealers by the end of the month.

Yea, between how the platforms are attached on these cars and those couplers I have had way too many issues with the MTL factory couplers. Naturally I just ordered 5 more packs of long shanks today with some of the new 3281s. Guess ill have to wait on trying to LBX on a different car.

[Jimbo]

The TBX along with the LBX should be shipping to dealers by the end of the month.

OK… what is a TBX and what is an LBX?  How are these two different from a SBX?

Jim