An N-Possible journal

[crrcoal]

Yeah I shoulda been more specific 

Oops!  I thought we were still on the TWX 89' flats.

[garethashenden]

How is everyone weathering their couplers?

[delamaize]

The more I follow this thread, the more I want to change. Ugh. these look and operate great, I just have so much rolling stock....

[dangerboy81]

The more I follow this thread, the more I want to change. Ugh. these look and operate great, I just have so much rolling stock....

Thats how I feel, plus, what to do with all these old knuckle couplers?, but I find myself buying another package or 3 everytime I go to Credit Valley!

[Maletrain]

.  .  .  what to do with all these old knuckle couplers?  .  .  .

A lot of old rolling stock with Rapido couplers is still knocking around the hobby, so I expect there is a market for used knuckle couplers if they are kept intact or at least as complete sets.  But, that seems like a lot of work, keeping the types separate and marked.  I am saving mine for application at the Club, where we get plenty of donations with Rapidos, and run conversion cars in a lot of trains on the N-trak modules.

[dangerboy81]

A lot of old rolling stock with Rapido couplers is still knocking around the hobby, so I expect there is a market for used knuckle couplers if they are kept intact or at least as complete sets.  But, that seems like a lot of work, keeping the types separate and marked.  I am saving mine for application at the Club, where we get plenty of donations with Rapidos, and run conversion cars in a lot of trains on the N-trak modules.

Thats true. I am going to keep them in the boxes for the cars they came off. If I ever want to switch back I can, or if I sell the cars, I can sell them as is or switch back to regular knuckle couplers.

[Iain]

i have a growing collection of hon30 equipment that needs couplers

[OrangeAnon]

One thing I don't think I've seen mentioned anywhere; The retrofit splitter seems to be a stamped part, as one side has a burr and the other side has a rollover. Not sure if I'm just unlucky with the batch I ordered or if they're all like this, but so far all the ones I've seen came with the burr side as the one that would face the coupler, which will cause excessive friction in a box that is otherwise not over tightened. Fortunately the metal will tolerate at least one more bend in the opposite direction, so I've been able to give the coupler the smooth side.

[Maletrain]

Are you saying that you bend the spring-centering tab to the other side?

Why not just take off any burr with some passes of a flat file?

For that matter, Andrew, why not bend the tab in the other direction during manufacture if it would put any burrs on the side away from the coupler?  A small burr might even help keep the piece in-place in the coupler box if pressed in.)

[OrangeAnon]

Yes, much quicker to bend the tab the other way than try to file such a small thin part.

[GaryHinshaw]

Interesting point.  I have been prepping my splitters by simply pressing down on the part with a piece of flat stock to make sure the base was nice and flat.  Since the splitter is in the top side of the coupler box with most retro-fits, I haven't found the burring to be an issue.  But I can see where it might be, and it definitely makes sense to bend the tab away from the burred side.

[Jesse6669]

AZL (Z-scale) retrofit.

I got my first few sets of N-P couplers and am testing retrofit into AZL trucks.  So far so good.  They look fantastic compared to the AZL couplers--much more realistic.



In order to fit the pin in the AZL pocket (1.2mm OD), there needs to be a bushing added.  I decided to cut down one of the AZL couplers to make this bushing and it fits.  (Whether this created binding is TBD).



Bushing inside part of NP coupler.


And in the pocket.


I have not tried operating with them yet, but just testing on the workbench revealed that there is a bit on an issue;  It seems something is binding thus keeping the couplers from closing completely.  Maybe (probably) it's my addition of the bushing.  They seem to stay a wee bit open and am exploring whether it's something that can be overcome with lubrication, filing down the bushing, or if some filing on the inside of the coupler pocket.  I tried cutting out some of the pocket as suggested in the instructions to improve range of motion, and that didn't help.  I might try making a 3D printed bushing instead of the crudely cut out one.  Or drill out the pin and replace it with a screw, eliminating the need for a bushing. 

[GaryHinshaw]

That looks promising.  A few comments/questions:

* I don't see a splitter anywhere.  Do you have one?  You need that to provide the recentering force.
* The box width is pretty snug, but it is probably sufficient for a truck mount application (since large coupler swing is not too important).
* If it were me, I would try printing a bushing that fits snugly around the post, instead of trying to lodge it into the coupler ring.

Good luck with it!  It looks like it should work.  They definitely look better than the AZL couplers.

[Jesse6669]

That looks promising.  A few comments/questions:

* I don't see a splitter anywhere.  Do you have one?  You need that to provide the recentering force.
* The box width is pretty snug, but it is probably sufficient for a truck mount application (since large coupler swing is not too important).
* If it were me, I would try printing a bushing that fits snugly around the post, instead of trying to lodge it into the coupler ring.

I tried with and without the splitter, this did seem to help a wee bit but they are just a hair too wide for the pocket and bowed inside.  I then tried cutting them down a little which allowed installation without a bow, but it didn't fix the issue.  I really wanted more expansion force in the spring.  On my desk was a rubber band.. hmm.. so I cut it down and removed the spring, smooshed it in, and voy-lay, the coupler stays closed.  I mated it with the other test truck and they snap and stay closed even when trucks are turned as if on a very tight radius.  Of course, it'll probably be harder to uncouple them as well, but I was more concerned about pull-aparts than intentional uncoupling.  Maybe a softer rubber would work...   



Hey, did I invent Z scale Super Shock Control Couplers?     

[Sokramiketes]

Now you too, intrepid viewer, can get a feel for the long monotony that is converting a unit train to layout ready status...  Featuring our favorite coupler, but also bolster modifications, good trucks and wheels, and base weathering.   

I wanted a full train to test, and these WISX hoppers have been sitting on the shelf awaiting inspiration.