I've never used Fast Tracks jigs, fixture, tools or soldering equipment. However, I've built at least 1000+ N-scale turnouts using paper templates taped to my drafting table.
I decided to watch some of the videos that Fast Tracks provides which are instructional in the use of their products.
If you follow Fast Tracks instructions and construction methodology precisely for making points and installing them, you shouldn't have any problems.
HOWEVER, if you're having problems with constructing the points, even using their nifty "Frog Helper", I'm going to suggest that you are probably having problems with your soldering technique.
Since you haven't provided photos of what you consider to be "really nice frog points" I'm going to assume the problem is that the two frog point halves are not soldering up with a nearly indiscernible seam running down the middle...that really should be filled with solder and filed flat. If this is the case, then there could be multiple reasons why this is happening, but I'll explain what I would do to make sure I have "really nice frog points".
(1) Make sure that before you mount your rails in either the Filing Jig, or the Frog Helper, that the fixtures are CLEAN, dust-free, with no filings or metal powders in them or on them either on flat surfaces or in any of the slots.
(2) Make sure that your rails are also clean, with no burrs, no filing dust, no cobwebs or spider's nests anywhere on them.
(3) Make sure the rails, when placed in the Filing Jig, are properly in place so that the filed surface you're about to create is at a right angle to the railfoot...AND...that the exposed parts of the rails are long enough so that the filed surface will bring both rails to a sharp point...like dangerously sharp.
(4) After your remove your rails from the Filing Jig, make sure any burrs are completely removed from the filed rails. Inspect the two rails points you've just filed and make sure the filed surface is flat and the tips of the rails are sharp.
(5) Before you insert your rails into the Frog Helper, make sure that the Frog Helper is CLEAN, dust-free, with no filing chips, metal powders or anything else on it...especially in the slots.
(6) Before you insert your rails into the Frog Helper, clean the filed surfaces and surrounding rail areas with Heptane (Bestine) to remove any oils or waxes from what you're about to solder.
(7) Insert the rails into the Frog Helper, making sure that the filed surfaces mate up perfectly, with no space between them, but also with no excessive pressure, which will bow the rails. You want straight rails, tips exactly even, and zero space between the angled surfaces you've just made with your Filing Jig. Don't touch any of the rail surfaces you are about to solder. Tape the rails down, making sure their bases are flatly seated on the slot bottoms.
( 8 ) Inspect your soldering iron. It should be fully hot (at least a 35W iron) with a clean, bright tip that is tinned. If not, fix the problem right now.
(9) Apply your flux to the top of the rails right at the joint above the two mated surfaces you've just filed (just like in the Fast Tracks video).
(10) Lightly, but steadily hit both rails at their mated railheads and watch the flux melt into the joint (just like in the video).
(11) Apply your solder while lightly and steadily touching both rails with your iron. Ideally, you should touch both rails AND the tip of your iron at the same time, but keeping your iron on your rails will heat both of them up enough so that the solder flows into the joint, completely filling it up.
(12) Where you want to make sure your rails are soldered together is the very tip, but let the solder flow there, don't touch it with your iron. You can make the solder flow both ways along the joint by moving it slowly while keeping contact with both rails. Make a solder fillet on the portion of your rails where they're touching furthest from the tip of the point.
(13) Remove your iron and let your newly created frog point cool to the touch
(14) After the assembly as cooled, inspect it to make sure the joint is fully filled by looking at the tip, the top and the bottom. There should be no gaps in your solder in the joint. If not, replace the assembly into your Frog Helper, tape it down again, apply flux, heat it up and watch the solder flow. This may take a bit of time...don't be impatient and don't worry about overheating anything. Remove after cooling, inspect and you should be okay.
(15) The video recommends you file the top of the your frog point assembly at this time, by holding it in your hand and filing. I would place it on a hard, flat surface and file it that way with your new, sharp bastard file, making sure that the file is parallel to your railheads by resting it lightly on the diverging "Y" the assembly forms. Frankly, I wait until my turnouts are assembled before I file the frog top flat. This evens the whole frog area up and ensures my file is flat in relation to the railheads.
(16) As for aligning, I do it by gauging the check gauge on both sides of the frog point as is demonstrated in the video with my NMRA N Standards Gauge. If I have problems with an engine going through the frog after the turnout is installed, then it is always the wheel gauge on that engine that's the problem.
That should about do it. Look at the videos and follow their instructions, and you should be fine as long as your soldering technique is good.
I build my turnouts slightly differently, but Fast Tracks will give you a functional, robust turnout...and fairly good looking too.
As always, I highly recommend Superior No.30 Supersafe Soldering Flux...it is THE VERY BEST...used with 96/4 Tin/Silver coreless Silver-bearing solder, both of which can be purchased here:
https://www.hnflux.com/page22.htmlCheerio!
Bob Gilmore
