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I miss the Cow Palace!! I will assume Brad is there from TNR?
As for the screw, take the screw and screw on a 00-90 nut or two, or three (if you can fit them).
Thank you! Reading your comment makes me think I can probably do the same thing with a piece of metal and tap it for 00-90. Bonus would be its larger and easier to hold as a result. Sam
Thanks, Jim! Chris, that loco is stunning and the patch-out and ghost lettering effects are top notch!
I really want to see that chassis!
...I'd love to see how you built the chassis!Chris
My contribution is not nearly the same level as shown by other members have shown this week. Recently I was thumbing through one of my car builder's cyclopedias and ran across a few drawings of an unusual car, built in the late 1950s. It has ended up being my first 3d printed car. On a positive note, the coupler height seems to match my MTL gauge. I need to figure out if I can shorten up MTL coupler screws without damaging the threads.Pre bestine bath (Attachment Link) Post bath: (Attachment Link)
My contribution is not nearly the same level as shown by other members have shown this week. Recently I was thumbing through one of my car builder's cyclopedias and ran across a few drawings of an unusual car, built in the late 1950s. It has ended up being my first 3d printed car. On a positive note, the coupler height seems to match my MTL gauge. I need to figure out if I can shorten up MTL coupler screws without damaging the threads.
Thanks, guys! Here's a shot of the chassis with the sound decoder temporarily installed. Is it a bit on the light side? Yes. The plastic frame was originally intended to be a test mockup before I built it one out of brass. Then I decided why not just use it. It can't pull a lot, but it can pull the handful of cars that I want it to up a pretty steep grade....