KATO vs BLI Heavy Mike

[Shaggy170]

I have a question about the heavy Mike's made by Kato and BLI. I have a GHQ L1 conversion kit. I have heard that Kato Mike's are a pain to convert to DCC with sound. The BLIs come equipped with sound. Would the GHQ kit work on a BLI?

[ncbqguy]

I don’t have any BLI Mikados but there should be no reason not.   There might be some minor filing invoved but the BLI and Kato are similarly poportioned so it should be minimal.   I don’t know if the BLI Light and Heavy have the same mech....the Light might be the better choice if not to give more clearance. Try getting the M1a trailing truck instead of kludging on the GHQ side frames...
Charlie Vlk

[mmagliaro]

The GHQ boiler is very very thick.  It's not like a typical loco "shell".   You can use a Dremel with a fairly coarse-toothed grinding bit to remove pewter from inside a GHQ boiler, but it will still load up the cutter with soft metal and you'll have to stop frequently to clean out the teeth.

Looking at the shell-off photo of the BLI on Spookshow's loco review site, I think that GHQ boiler will require significant reaming to fit, but having said that, I bet you can make it work.  Just don't expect it to only be a bit of filing here and there. 

[ncbqguy]

Judging from Spookshow’s review pictures I don’t think there will be much filing.   The mech has no integral inside-of-the-boiler weight and, while it is not mentioned, it seems like the same mech is used for bothe the Heavy and Light.  If the filing down of the Kato mech required more removal than the inside of the USRA Light boiler no Kato mech would be under a GHQ shell.
Charlie Vlk

[propmeup1]

I have both Kato and BLI Mikes. I had the same thoughts about this and have the GHQ kit. I already did one using the Kato long before the BLI came out. I've had trouble with pick up issue on the tender trucks with the Kato. I been eyeballing the BLI a lot and I will use one the those next and yes since it already have the sound but I'm not overly pleased with BLI sound, not much option once I been use to Tsunami 2 in my Kato.   Oh and another thing is I find the BLI Mikes pull a whole lot more then my Kato does.   That's my take on it.

[Shaggy170]

Thanks for all of the input everyone. I will start looking for a BLI Mike and try to get a M1a trailing truck. Once I get to the project, as long as it doesn't end up like my others (sitting on the workbench, waiting to be completed), I will post pictures of the work and end result.

[Lemosteam]

Thanks for all of the input everyone. I will start looking for a BLI Mike and try to get a M1a trailing truck. Once I get to the project, as long as it doesn't end up like my others (sitting on the workbench, waiting to be completed), I will post pictures of the work and end result.

Buy a Bachmann K4 trailing truck fro their parts store. The M1 truck is vaporware.

[mike_lawyer]

I have done 4 GHQ conversions on Kato Mikes.  There is plenty of room in the front of the boiler (where the light PC board sits) to install a very nice decoder using the GHQ boiler. I like Zimo decoders.  I would stick with the Kato Mike for the GHQ conversion kit.

[Boilerman]

mmagliaro,

If you use a little lube oil when cutting with a Dremel in soft metals the cutter will cut faster and not clog so bad.

[mmagliaro]

mmagliaro,

If you use a little lube oil when cutting with a Dremel in soft metals the cutter will cut faster and not clog so bad.

Thank you.  I appreciate the tip.  I will try that!

[mike_lawyer]

The DCC install on a Kato Mike is a lot easier with the GHQ boiler than with the stock Kato boiler.  There is more room in the front of the boiler area with the GHQ boiler.  Simply remove the PCB board with the light, take two pieces of brass strip and place them where the PCB board used to be.  Now you have two solder pads for your right and left power to your decoder.  Then run the motor wires back to the motor. 

Definitely stick with a stock Kato, I think it will be a lot less work and much fewer headaches in the long run.

[jdcolombo]

The DCC install on a Kato Mike is a lot easier with the GHQ boiler than with the stock Kato boiler.  There is more room in the front of the boiler area with the GHQ boiler.  Simply remove the PCB board with the light, take two pieces of brass strip and place them where the PCB board used to be.  Now you have two solder pads for your right and left power to your decoder.  Then run the motor wires back to the motor. 

Definitely stick with a stock Kato, I think it will be a lot less work and much fewer headaches in the long run.

The OP indicated a desire to have sound.  There's not enough room even with the GHQ boiler to put a sound decoder and a speaker in the boiler area.  If you want sound, you'll have to do a tender install for the decoder and speaker, and if you're going to do that, the BLI option is better since it is already wired for sound.  Yes, I hate the Paragon decoders, but if they sound good enough for the OP, that fixes the sound DCC issue.  And if it doesn't sound good enough, he can always do what I did: strip out the Paragon and replace it with a LokSound 5 micro, 10x15 speaker, and a TCS KA-1 keep alive.  Then you will have the best-sounding, best-running, no-stalling, best-pulling Mike ever done in N scale.

John C.

[squirrelhunter]

Buy a Bachmann K4 trailing truck fro their parts store. The M1 truck is vaporware.

I've seen comment this pop up a few places, but I don't understand it- I've bought 3 M1b trailing trucks from BLI and I've even got one installed on a BLI light mike. I bought 1 in 2020 and 2 this spring. They are a drop in install for the BLI USRA mike.

[Lemosteam]

Ok thanks @squirrelhunter - I was not aware that BLI sold parts?  Do you have to call them?

[squirrelhunter]

They have a link on their site- http://bliservice.com/

Just click on the "request a part for your model form" and fill out the web form there. You should also note the part number from the exploded diagram for the model you need parts from. The M1b trailing stick is part 19 and 20 (that is the frame and axle).