Author Topic: Weekend Update 9/13/20  (Read 9376 times)

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craigolio1

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #60 on: September 14, 2020, 07:00:27 PM »
+1
The Wind Turbine Blade Train makes up train 6 of my quick Run-by Catalog.   
Still about 25 trains left to catalog! 


Outstanding!!

mu26aeh

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #61 on: September 14, 2020, 09:24:16 PM »
+10
I am off work this week, so I'm hoping to get a lot of stuff off my work bench.  One thing that's been bothering me is my Gettysburg Truck 1 build.  I got Tru Color Emergency Yellow for the paint, and one of the first comments I got when someone saw a photo of it was " That's not bright enough".  Which I knew, and thought I could live with.  Well, fast forward to today when I'm at Hobby Lobby picking up primer and gloss coat.  I see Createx Fluorescent yellow.  Damn, that's bright.  Needless to say it came home with me.  Off came the decals I had started, I retaped everything, reshot it with white primer and loaded the airbrush with the Createx.






davefoxx

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #62 on: September 14, 2020, 09:24:28 PM »
+2

A Proud HOer
BUY ALL THE TRAINS!
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daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #63 on: September 15, 2020, 06:28:56 PM »
+16
Very late to the party but the first of the Walthers PD hoppers is nearing completion.

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sd45elect2000

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #64 on: September 15, 2020, 07:48:24 PM »
+3
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Finally some TOFC stuff 1926 style.

Randy

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #65 on: September 15, 2020, 08:09:38 PM »
0
Quote
Very late to the party but the first of the Walthers PD hoppers is nearing completion.

Good work Daniel; the new ends are a big improvement.  I have wondering if I can achieve similar ends in styrene for a new build I am contemplating.


Tim
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BCR Dawson Creek Subdivision in N Scale
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peteski

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #66 on: September 15, 2020, 08:39:01 PM »
0
Good work Daniel; the new ends are a big improvement.  I have wondering if I can achieve similar ends in styrene for a new build I am contemplating.


Tim

I don't see why not, but they will be so delicate/flexible in those thicknesses, that I'm not sure if they'll withstand much handling.  0.005" styrene is almost as floppy as a sheet of typing paper. 
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daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #67 on: September 16, 2020, 12:53:45 AM »
0
Good work Daniel; the new ends are a big improvement.  I have wondering if I can achieve similar ends in styrene for a new build I am contemplating.


Tim

Etched is the only way to go. These are nickel-silver and are still too soft. My initial concern was that too many bends would cause brittle stainless steel to break. The end result is that most of the smaller details like steps and grabs that were part of the fret could not be used because they would just deform and not hold their shape. That is the main reason why this model is using BLMA stirrups and bronze grabs instead of the etched ones.

My next run will be stainless steel.
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nkalanaga

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #68 on: September 16, 2020, 01:52:39 AM »
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Peteski:  With my experience with very thin styrene, I'd almost recommend the paper.  Get a good grade of cardstock, and at least it wouldn't break.
N Kalanaga
Be well

peteski

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #69 on: September 16, 2020, 03:51:54 AM »
+1
Peteski:  With my experience with very thin styrene, I'd almost recommend the paper.  Get a good grade of cardstock, and at least it wouldn't break.

Sure, paper would be stiffer (especially if saturated with CA glue after assembly. But since the main reason for rebuilding the end cages is to make them as close to scale thickness as possible, card stock would be too thick.  Like Daniel mentioned, thin etched metal is the best material for the task.  I would say stainless steel or phosphor bronze would be good choices.
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ednadolski

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #70 on: September 16, 2020, 02:09:03 PM »
0
I would say stainless steel or phosphor bronze would be good choices.

One note to BOLO for, be careful about having too much area that is half-etched.  I'm not so sure about the SS, but the PB at least can start to cup/curve/warp if too much of it is etched away on one side.

Ed

peteski

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #71 on: September 16, 2020, 09:50:18 PM »
0
One note to BOLO for, be careful about having too much area that is half-etched.  I'm not so sure about the SS, but the PB at least can start to cup/curve/warp if too much of it is etched away on one side.

Ed

Yes, I have also noticed this effect on brass etchings.  The thin metal probably exhibits some "memory" from when it was being rolled thinner and thinner.  But In this example I don't see any places where large areas would be half-etched, so it should be ok.
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nkalanaga

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #72 on: September 17, 2020, 01:40:00 AM »
0
Peteski:  Cardstock comes in various thicknesses, although probably not as thin as metal sheets.  What I was thinking of is thinner than the 0.005 styrene commonly available, but stiffer than ordinary typing/printer paper.
N Kalanaga
Be well

glakedylan

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #73 on: September 17, 2020, 01:48:39 AM »
0
60 lb cardstock is .005 thick
80 lb cardstock is .006 thick
100 lb cardstock is .0075 thick


according to several paper company and supply websites
claiming it is caliper measured


sincerely
Gary
PRRT&HS #9304 | PHILLY CHAPTER #2384

bbussey

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Re: Weekend Update 9/13/20
« Reply #74 on: September 17, 2020, 08:14:11 AM »
0
The anti-vandal screens in the Keyser Valley caboose kit were roughly .004” thick and, while strong, we’re flexible. I’ve etched stainless steel .008” and it is stiff enough to serve as end-cages for covered hoppers. Having fold lines etched in the parts should allow folding and I’ve never had parts break at the fold lines of brass or stainless parts unless I repeatedly fold at the seam and fold it beyond 90 degrees – neither of which would apply in forming end-cages.
Bryan Busséy
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