When ya can't tell C70 from C55 ....

[OldEastRR]

Code 70!! Ordered wrong part!! And as a kicker, can't return it because I cut it. AND MBK has NO code 55 ME switches.

Anybody want to buy a brand-new slightly modified ME Code 70 RH switch?  Five (5) bucks plus shipping.  Honest.

[ncbqguy]

Too bad.
We still need a North American code 55 turnout line that has Peco robustness (imbedded rail...a design that goes back to Midlin HO) but with proper tie size, spacing and configuration. 
Hope it is a anomaly and not a step in the wrong direction....
Could you post some picture?
Charlie Vlk

[nkalanaga]

Is it actually code 55. or did they send you a code 70 by mistake?  I know, you'd see  the difference connecting it to your existing track, but just holding it it might not be as obvious.

[x600]

OldEastRR, you are correct that the ME c55 joiners are a real pain. After I installed 6 turnouts on a oNetrak module, I was about to take up basket weaving. I was taking an exacto blade in the joiner and twisting a little to open them up before trying to force them on the turnouts with a pair of tweezers
  I was looking in my track parts stuff for more joiners and found a package of Atlas c55 rail joiners and tried them out. They slid right on and were firm, and didn't interfere with MT pizza cutters. The next 6 ME c55 turnouts went a lot easier and I sold my basket weaving supplies on ebay for a profit. (who knew) Try the Atlas c55 joiners, both the metal and the insulated, if you need them.

Greg O.

[thomasjmdavis]

OldEastRR, you are correct that the ME c55 joiners are a real pain. After I installed 6 turnouts on a oNetrak module, I was about to take up basket weaving. I was taking an exacto blade in the joiner and twisting a little to open them up before trying to force them on the turnouts with a pair of tweezers
  I was looking in my track parts stuff for more joiners and found a package of Atlas c55 rail joiners and tried them out. They slid right on and were firm, and didn't interfere with MT pizza cutters. The next 6 ME c55 turnouts went a lot easier and I sold my basket weaving supplies on ebay for a profit. (who knew) Try the Atlas c55 joiners, both the metal and the insulated, if you need them.

Greg O.

I've done the same thing and use Atlas joiners for ME installation.  I gave up on ME joiners since I ruined a lot of them trying to get them open and fitted on the track, not to mention the occasional poke in the finger from sharp joiner ends and Xacto knives.  The savings on band-aids will pay the cost of buying several packs of Atlas joiners. 

[OldEastRR]

It's C55 rail, I know it by sight. Their website says in 2014 they went in for completely new tool and die work for their switches, but i hadn't bought any ME switches since before 2000. I'm wondering if anybody else bought new versions and tried using the "old" version joiners and found out they weren't wide enough,like I did. After 35 years of using them I'm already painfully (literally, had my thumb skewered a lot) aware how tough their joiners are to get on rail.  I just didn't expect them not to fit their own track! The web of the rail is exactly the width of the total width of the joiner, obviously the thickness of the metal bent back to form the sleeve means the inside width of the joiner is too small. Just prying open the ME joiners doesn't work -- I'd have to open them up flat again then REBEND the flaps to fit the rail. Not gonna do that!
I'll just grinds down the too-fat web a little on both sides. Luckily for the 2 track end I need to cut the tracks back to fit so I can clip away tiles and just use a file. On the single track end I'm going to have to use a very slight touch with a very slow dremel cut-off wheel to get just the rail and not slice through the plastic ties. Ugh.
Also wondering about the faint brassy tinge to the NS rails. With rail like KATO or Atlas the nickel-silver is SHINY on all sides from all directions. The ME rail looks very slightly tarnished, yet doesn't. Very strange.
I'll have to write them about the joiner situation. Maybe they rejiggered their joiner-making machines to fit the new rail, and only old stock has problems.

[peteski]

I think that you finally got onto something here.  If they did change the rail profile, they likely created new joiners. Trying to use old joiners on new rail will be futile. No?

As for the color, nickel-silver is actually a type of brass alloy, so there is always a warm tone to its color (it will never look like cool blue steel rail). Maybe they are using different nickel-silver alloy than other companies?  But rail usually gets weathered, so the color of unpainted rail should not be a problem.  They also sell weathered rail so modelers can skip painting it.

[nkalanaga]

Do you meant the web (vertical section), or the base (flat part against rail) is wider?  To have the web as wide as the joiner would basically be a square bar, which is why I was wondering of it was larger rail.

[OldEastRR]

Is it actually code 55. or did they send you a code 70 by mistake?  I know, you'd see  the difference connecting it to your existing track, but just holding it it might not be as obvious.

Ordered the wrong number part. Picked the Code 70 version. HEY! EVERYBODY! Did you know Code 70 track is different in size than Code 55?  Who knew!! Hope I got the warning out in time!

Of course the last part of that is snark.

[Chris333]

It's C55 rail, I know it by sight.

[Missaberoad]

https://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/Dial-Calipers-Series-505-C1387.aspx

 

[peteski]

It's C55 rail, I know it by sight.

But not by height? 
I should seriously nominate you for the Railwire's official ranter. Lots of finger pointing and ranting, just to discover that the problem was self inflicted. 

https://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/Dial-Calipers-Series-505-C1387.aspx

 

Yes, those are good (and pricey) professional calipers. But for mere $18 there are perfectly serviceable (and plenty accurate for hobbies) digital calipers are available from Harbor Freight (and likely on eBay too).  That is the exact caliper I've been using for at least last 15 years (problem free).

6 in. Digital Caliper
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-63711.html




Or, for a dollar more you get a 6 in. Digital Caliper with SAE and Metric Fractional Readings
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html

[DKS]

[Missaberoad]

Yes, those are good (and pricey) professional calipers. But for mere $18 there are perfectly serviceable (and plenty accurate for hobbies) digital calipers are available from Harbor Freight (and likely on eBay too).  That is the exact caliper I've been using for at least last 15 years (problem free).

I did simply post the link as a snarky reply, but I do love my 30+ year old Mitutoyo dial calipers... Pleasure to use and I can trust them to be consistant and accurate... 

[Chris333]

Can we make this "Best Of" ?