going Soundtraxx in BLI t1

[ChristianJDavis1]

WOW!  Allrigthy then . . . . 
And yes, they are beautiful models (and with all their warts, still better in every aspect than the brass Centipedes).
I also agree that a person should not have to futz around with a model that costs as much as those do. They should run, out of the box,  like the proverbial swiss watch.

I think my brass centipedes stutter just a tiny bit less than my BLI centipedes (they don't have to reset every time they lose a tiny bit of contact). Two very different animals, though, and I'll profess I've run the BLI's a heck of a lot more (my brass ones aren't DCC and I only just acquired them recently, not to mention they aren't as kind to curves as the BLI's.

propmeup's problems seem to be par for the course with the BLI centipedes, though; look great, don't like to run consistently. Mine are hit and miss as to if they want to run at all. I'd love to see a pair with a different decoder (or even just straight DC) to see if the decoder is the biggest problem like I suspect, or if they are just flawed to begin with.

[peteski]

propmeup's problems seem to be par for the course with the BLI centipedes, though; look great, don't like to run consistently. Mine are hit and miss as to if they want to run at all. I'd love to see a pair with a different decoder (or even just straight DC) to see if the decoder is the biggest problem like I suspect, or if they are just flawed to begin with.

As I see it, they have multiple issues: narrow gauge, crappy pickup, and sub-par decoder design. Maybe more.  One of my set is in pieces, stored in a tray, awaiting my tender touch.

[CRL]

With all those wheels, you’d think poor electrical pickup would be the last problem these would have.

[dem34]

With all those wheels, you’d think poor electrical pickup would be the last problem these would have.

Ha fool. You underestimate some people's will to innovate.

Semi related, anybody find it weird that almost every BLI loco has a completely different internal set up to another model almost to the point of being deliberate? Like, I can crack open a LifeLike and tell instantly that its a LifeLike, I can do the same to an Atlas and tell immediately that its Atlas. etc

[ChristianJDavis1]

Ha fool. You underestimate some people's will to innovate.

Semi related, anybody find it weird that almost every BLI loco has a completely different internal set up to another model almost to the point of being deliberate? Like, I can crack open a LifeLike and tell instantly that its a LifeLike, I can do the same to an Atlas and tell immediately that its Atlas. etc

I don't think they've quite figured out a system that "works" for them, yet. Their priorities seem to be "jam as many electronics in it as possible and worry about the running characteristics later." Their HO equipment always looked pretty consistent to me, but they've been more HO-centric from the beginning. It almost seems like they are trying to be innovative, but we all know what happens when you try to reinvent the wheel. The centipedes without their electronics and low-friction mechanism design like a Kato would be quite the locomotive, but like I said; they try to build a locomotive around a decoder. Odd, because the mikado's seem very nice (although I have no first-hand experience with them).

[Teditor]

On the subject of BLI, I have an SD40-2 that keeps cutting out, not mine, having a look at it for a fellow club member, sending it back is not really an option, anything in particular to look for?
Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under

[greenwizard88]

On the subject of BLI, I have an SD40-2 that keeps cutting out, not mine, having a look at it for a fellow club member, sending it back is not really an option, anything in particular to look for?
Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under

If it's anything like my SW1500 (HO) that had these issues, BLI suggested to put it on a glass table and make sure everything is flat and you can't slide a piece of paper under any of the wheels. Personally, I made sure that the brass pickup was actually touching the wheels to pick up power (they weren't), and that the pickup wire was soldered properly. In my experience with BLI power issues, the problem is always based around the truck.

[rrjim1]

On the subject of BLI, I have an SD40-2 that keeps cutting out, not mine, having a look at it for a fellow club member, sending it back is not really an option, anything in particular to look for?
Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under

Remove the trucks and check out the frame to truck contacts. Clean and adjust so the frame contacts when pushed straight up will go all the way into the frame pocket.

[Sharky_McSharknose]

I have a T-1, Centipede A-A set, and Alco PA and powered PB from BLI. Luckily I've not had decoder operating issues with them but the diesels have given me some conductivity issues. To reduce the number of pickup issues I was seeing, I applied conductive lubricant on the axle ends and pickups. It was very helpful, especially on the Centipedes where there is a lot of play between the axle ends and the holes in the pickups. I used CRC 2-26 but Conduca-Lube will also work.

[peteski]

I applied conductive lubricant on the axle ends and pickups. It was very helpful, especially on the Centipedes where there is a lot of play between the axle ends and the holes in the pickups. I used CRC 2-26 but Conduca-Lube will also work.

"Conductive lubricants"  is a misnomer (at least for those you used), often propagated throughout the modeling community.  If you stick an ohmmeter probes in them, they are non-conductive.  They however aid in conductivity by coating the metal parts, preventing oxidation (which is what causes conductivity problems).

There are true conductive lubricants out there. They usually have powdered metal (liek silver) in them whihc is what conducts the electricity. Those are quite pricey.

[propmeup1]

I have a F3 and three F7s. They all needed Frog Snot on one axle.  I have an A-B set pulling 20 empty hoppers and caboose and that's all they pull without spinning. They are too light and need traction tires, WTF BLI ! Lets get your sh-t in one sock and get squared away as my company commander would say back in boot camp.

[Cajonpassfan]

I have a F3 and three F7s. They all needed Frog Snot on one axle.  I have an A-B set pulling 20 empty hoppers and caboose and that's all they pull without spinning. They are too light and need traction tires, WTF BLI ! Lets get your sh-t in one sock and get squared away as my company commander would say back in boot camp.

A-B set, both powered?
Otto K.

[propmeup1]

both powered.

[Mark5]

For the BLI F-units, tractive effort was a common complaint. A remarkable achievement given that there is so much shell that could be filled with weight.

Mark

[propmeup1]

I've weighted other locos using 1/16 and 1/32 tungsten rods I get from the weld shop at work. It's a very heavy alloy and using a Dremel cutting wheel to make it to the length I need. It works out well. I haven't weighted any F units yet but they are next.
    I've used it when i made a Pennsy H-10 and L1 using Shapeways shells. There was some room to put in a few grams and it helped a lot.  Also in my Reading G1 with a 3D shell running on a Bachmann frame.

As for the BLI 2-8-2s, i have a light and a heavy. Both run great. I mean so good it's like they are another brand other then BLI. They got something right this time or maybe the gremlins haven't woken up yet in these two.   Oh crap, I probably jinxed myself now. I can pull 35 hoppers with false loads up my 1.34% grades.  36-37 hoppers they want to slip.  The heavy will soon become a Reading M class. I was born in Reading, PA.    Tomorrow a T1 and E7 are going to FL for work. If it happens again I'll do a decoder replacement.