Briggs Models MLW S13 review and build thread.

[craigolio1]

Tim I broke the ones that came with the models as they are extremely brittle and stick right out there like a sore thumb. Those are Miniatures by Eric switcher bells. Not correct but close enough and they won’t break.

 Craig

[BCR 570]

Thx - reason for asking is I will need three for my RS-3s.

Tim

[craigolio1]

I think it is the NB 17 top mount diesel bell.

For the purpose of this thread though I was just on the MBE website and the NB10 F-unit bell looks like a very good match for the S13 so in the future I may switch them out.

Craig

[BCR 570]

I think that NB10 could work for both the RS-3 and S-13 if the horizontal end portions were removed.  They look promising so will try and source one for further examination.

Thanks,

Tim

[craigolio1]

More progress on 503.



This was done using:
HiBall Graphics FN-334 BC Rail cabooses for the stripes and logogram.

Microscale 60-783 British Columbia Railway two tone green diesels (1972-1984) for the side and rear cab numbers, and front diagonal stripes.

Microscale 60-726 BC Rail late 80’s locomotives for the BC flags and electrified territory warning labels.

Craig

[philippe.whyte]

Nice work Craig... it's looking great!

Philippe

[craigolio1]

I’m back at that S13. I’ve installed a Digitrax DZ126N into 503. It fits nicely in the cab with out having to squish it. I need to up my game on decoder installs. I have been using liquid connector coating to insulate my solder connections. But obviously I didn’t do a good enough job. The first time I folded the wires so that the decoder could nestle into its spot I let a bit of the magic smoke out. Everything runs fine, except the headlight is on permanently. That’s fine as I’ll run these two back to back in switching duties and planned to have the head lights on all the time anyway. Everything is packed in really tight and now with the liquid connector coating on there I would have to strip all of the connections again. Some wires don’t have the length which would mean rewiring the pickups. Not going to happen. So I’ll leave it. But like I said I need to up my game. Time to move to tiny shrink tubing.

[peteski]

Nice job Craig (well except for the magic smoke part)! 

When I use Digitrax decoders I find their wire too thick and stiff.  ESU sells decoder wire which is thinner and much more flexible. Same so does ZIMO and TCS, but ESU seems the best. I often unsolder the Digitrax wires and replace them with ESU wires.

[craigolio1]

Thanks Pete.

These are the decoders that have the 6 pins on them. No wires. It’s my first time trying them and I thought it would make for a neater install. WRONG.

On the first I wound up soldering wires to it. That worked fine but created more clutter than I would have had just using a wired decoder.

On the second I had the idea to bend the pins over at a right angle which worked except while soldering the last wire I managed to bump the first and tore the solder pad right off. It was a motor wire so this decoder is ruined.

It has not been a good night for decoders. For the next go ‘round I’ll just use a wired decoder.

Craig

[peteski]

Thanks Pete.

These are the decoders that have the 6 pins on them. No wires. It’s my first time trying them and I thought it would make for a neater install. WRONG.

On the first I wound up soldering wires to it. That worked fine but created more clutter than I would have had just using a wired decoder.

On the second I had the idea to bend the pins over at a right angle which worked except while soldering the last wire I managed to bump the first and tore the solder pad right off. It was a motor wire so this decoder is ruined.

It has not been a good night for decoders. For the next go ‘round I’ll just use a wired decoder.

Craig

Sorry to hear bout your bad decoder night.
But if you took a 6-pin decoder and soldered wires to it, you created a standard wired decoder (since the circuit board is the same on both versions).  I'm assuming that you unsoldered the pins and soldered wires onto the same pads?  If that's the case, why would a wired decoder result in less clutter?  You would have created your own wired decoder, identical to what is sold by Digitrax (less the orange sleeve over it).

[craigolio1]

Simply because I’m messy. Yes I removed the pins. But when I added my wires and I tinned them I used too much solder which made them stiff. And hard to bend. There for hard to fit.

We’re I doing this kit again I would have left the leads I soldered to the motor and trucks much longer so that I could just solder them right to the decoder. Woulda shoulda.

Always learning!

Craig.

[peteski]

Simply because I’m messy. Yes I removed the pins. But when I added my wires and I tinned them I used too much solder which made them stiff. And hard to bend. There for hard to fit.

Got it!

We’re I doing this kit again I would have left the leads I soldered to the motor and trucks much longer so that I could just solder them right to the decoder. Woulda shoulda.

Always learning!

That is exactly correct - now you know what to do on your next model.   Hands-on experience is a good thing. 

[craigolio1]

I’m starting over. I’m taking advantage of the Digitrax Craig-proof warranty and rewiring the locos.

[craigolio1]

I rewired the chassis tonight and I’m very pleased with the result. I used a smaller wire to the truck pickups which made it much easier to route through the chassis. I got it from Ngineering.



And the final product has wires long enough that I can solder them directly to the pads on the decoders when they come back. This will make for a much cleaner and more reliable install.



Craig

[craigolio1]

Today I did the cab attachments. I wanted them to be sturdy yet removable. With the decoder being inside the cab I felt it would be a benefit to be able to do final wire dressing with the body on but the cab off.

Thankfully there is room under the sills to hide some screws. I attached styrene angle to the inside of the cab.



And then drilled holes through the sill into the angle. I then clearance the holes in the sill, and threaded the holes in the angle for an MT coupler screw.



From the side the screws are not visible.



Craig.