Broken rear stirrup on Kato E8A

[MK]

What's the best way to "repair" this?  The snapped off piece is no where to be found.

Getting a new shell and repainting and re-decaling is not an option for me.  I can file the nubs down and glue a third party piece if there is such a thing.  Matching touch up paint is not a problem if I can replace the stirrup somehow.

[altohorn25]

What's the best way to "repair" this?  The snapped off piece is no where to be found.

Getting a new shell and repainting and re-decaling is not an option for me.  I can file the nubs down and glue a third party piece if there is such a thing.  Matching touch up paint is not a problem if I can replace the stirrup somehow.

Your best bet would probably be to cut the rest of them off and replace all of them so they look the same.  Gold metal models makes replacement stirrups.  Look about 3/4 of the way down this page and you'll find them:  http://www.nscalesupply.com/Gmm/Gmm-Details.html

Part #160-48

Nate

[thomasjmdavis]

I will never understand this, I have some shells that have been in bin boxes of parts for years with all their stirrups, and others that seem to fall off when you let the factory air out of the box.  Kato seem to hold up better than Life Like, but I lose some of those as well.  I need to have a stirrup replacement day (or week) one of these days.

[mecgp7]

I have have some luck with the following. I glue the stirrups back on then glue tiny little strips of paper to the backs of the two vertical pieces and to the shell. You could use thread too. It doesn't show, adds a little strength, and it adds a little security to keep from losing the stirrups went they break again which they usually do.

[MK]

Thanks Nate.  That may do it.

Mecgp7, unfortunately I don't have the broken part.  It was bought used and I didn't notice it until I got home.

Thomas, how would do your Katos.  I'm assuming you saved the broken parts?

[x600]

MK,
Gold Medal Models makes a diesel stirrups set, #160-48 in etched brass.
Not too difficult of a project. I had a missing one on a Kato F-3 and replaced all of them.
You just have to get the holes centered on the body and CA them in place.


Greg O.

[MK]

Thanks Greg!  Would it be possible for you to post a quick photo of your F3?  I just want to see what it looks like after installation.  Thanks!

[nscalbitz]

I have have some luck with the following. I glue the stirrups back on then glue tiny little strips of paper to the backs of the two vertical pieces and to the shell. You could use thread too. It doesn't show, adds a little strength, and it adds a little security to keep from losing the stirrups went they break again which they usually do.

Paper strip?? Hmmm...
Not sure on actual size of the part, but I'd use my go to add on details method in militaria and plastic where appropriate-
1-  drill a securing hole in body; CA a pin [literally a steel sewing pin*]- they come in various thicknesses (find old steel ones in second hand shops);
-2 same hole in part being applied/ repaired, again with CA, and
-3 hold firmly for 5 minutes or until heat compensates for any humidity delaying a solid attachment.

*- Broken steel drill bits are excellent for this too. Recycle becomes repair. 100% environmentally friendly reuse 

Depending upon strength of bond, will never come off.
Regards davew

[x600]

Sorry, Nate, Didn't realize you had already posted the GMM thing.
MK, couldn't find a good picture of them on the F3, but while browsing my photos, I noticed that I had used them on
Phoebe Snow's E8 also. Because they are black, they don't show up well in photos.
This is the best I can do for now


Greg O.

[nkalanaga]

If you can't find old steel sewing pins, new ones are cheap when bought in bulk.

[MK]

Greg, they look awesome!  Thanks for posting the picture.  I can see them when zoomed in.  I'll order a set and try it.  My first loco detailing! 

[thomasjmdavis]

Thanks Nate.  That may do it.

Mecgp7, unfortunately I don't have the broken part.  It was bought used and I didn't notice it until I got home.

Thomas, how would do your Katos.  I'm assuming you saved the broken parts?

Gluing those back on is one of the last things I use old fashioned MEK based adhesives for.  I save the parts when I find them.  Have also had one or two Life Like purchased on the big auction site, that arrived with fewer stirrups than showed in the photos, but got them cheap, so its not a big deal- I figure I will replace them sooner or later anyway, just because the etched ones look better. 

[randgust]

I deliberately cut all the steps off of my F7 ABBA consist, replaced with GMM etched, and couldn't be happier.




So if anybody does change their mind and want to repair the plastic ones, I've got a baggie I saved of all of them.

[wcfn100]

If you can wait a bit, I may have a better solution.

I personally don't like the GMM stirrups.  They are too thin, but mostly they don't sit flush to the car side like the prototype.

Here's my solution.  It's doubled over for thickness and is flush to the side but still allows for the mounting holes to be in the centered depth-wise on the shell.





Unfortunately my first try ended up a bit long. Either my measurements are off, or the space between the truck springs and the side sill are shorter on the Kato model than the prototype.

I have a slightly shorter version ready to go but it's going on a sheet with some other items like Mike's switch stand and my Armco CGW depot that I'm still finishing the drawings for.

Hopefully I'll have something to show in the next couple months.


Jason

[nickelplate759]

Jason's design is very clever!