Author Topic: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...  (Read 1952 times)

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strummer

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"True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« on: March 18, 2018, 02:35:35 AM »
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I dunno if this has already been asked, but has anyone here used this product on their F units? I know that the use of Unimate-type "shorties" has been discussed a lot (in fact, I'm using them now, thanks to you guys!), but it occurred to me that this small coupler might be a good, if not better option(?)  At least it has its own mounting box, and there's no tiny springs to deal with...

I apologize if this is old news...

Mark in Oregon

bbussey

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2018, 02:42:51 AM »
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I haven’t used them on MicroTrains F units. But I have installed them on Life-Life FA/FB, PA, and DL109 units that are MU’d and they are a vast improvement regarding the distance between the units as well as eliminating coupler oscillation.
Bryan Busséy
NHRHTA #2246
NSE #1117
www.bbussey.net


altohorn25

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2018, 08:45:50 AM »
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I haven't used them between units; I tried it but didn't seem to get the close coupling that I wanted.  The unimates still work best for me.  That being said, I have installed quite a few of them on the front of A units that are in the lead; they look quite nice and I'm not going to couple anything to them anyways.

Nate
Nate Pierce
Modutrak - Wisconsin Division
www.modutrak.com

strummer

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2018, 10:37:59 AM »
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I haven't used them between units; I tried it but didn't seem to get the close coupling that I wanted.  The unimates still work best for me.  That being said, I have installed quite a few of them on the front of A units that are in the lead; they look quite nice and I'm not going to couple anything to them anyways. Nate

Good to know. I got to thinking; of course the Kato F's have truck-mounted rear couplers, so I guess my question really only applies to the front end anyway...

Mark in Oregon

AKNscale

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2018, 04:53:27 PM »
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Good to know. I got to thinking; of course the Kato F's have truck-mounted rear couplers, so I guess my question really only applies to the front end anyway...

Mark in Oregon

Unless you body mount them.

strummer

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2018, 07:37:11 PM »
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...and how have you done that? Would like to see some pics!  :)

Mark in Oregon

Tom L

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2018, 04:41:17 AM »
+1
I just did a Kato FP7, which I assume is the same as their other (New DCC ready chassis) F's. It's a hole drilled and tapped into the back of the frame with a .030 long spacer made of styrene tubing (can't remember the size, it was in my scrap bin). Run a 00-90 brass flathead screw up through the coupler box and spacer into the tapped hole. I beveled the hole on the bottom of the coupler box so the head of the screw is flush, clearance is pretty tight. Clip off the truck mount coupler and round off the back of the coupler box to ensure clearance. The screw is not tightened down all the way, so the coupler box can pivot side to side, since the short Tru Scale couplers have so little side swing themselves. I used a little tacky glue as a thread lock to ensure it doesn't work itself any looser. The older split frame versions would be another story..........

Tom L.
Wellington CO

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strummer

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2018, 10:43:32 AM »
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...nice...

Mark in Oregon

mark.hinds

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2018, 12:20:26 PM »
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To answer your OP, this guy used them on F-units; see this thread, post 473:  https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=39941.465

BTW, if you are aiming for the correct scale 18" spacing between elements of an F-unit set, these don't quite get you there, however.  The only way I've found to do this is the following:

Quote
There was a guy on another Forum who used HOn3 couplers from "Rail Line"; part number #116.  They are a soft-ish plastic, and you cut the shaft to the desired length, and drill a mounting hole.  I modified his design by putting a Micro Trains spring on the mounting screw, as you can't torque it down for obvious reasons.  I also carved off the top portion of the coupler to get the look I wanted for N-scale; note how the side-view image of the couplers looks flat on top.  The close-coupling couplers can be substituted for the standard Micro Trains couplers on the Intermountain F-units, at any time desired.  So, if I want 2 A-units back-to-back, I can switch them out appropriately.  BTW, there is no oscillation with this coupling method (good).  OTOH these can't be uncoupled during an operating session (bad), so are most appropriate for multi-unit diesel sets, such as 1950s-era F-units, which the prototype operated in sets. 



MH
« Last Edit: March 19, 2018, 12:23:29 PM by mark.hinds »

RBrodzinsky

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2018, 12:32:08 PM »
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One way to help disguise the distance is to add diaphragms. While they don't change the spacing, the eye sees them as closer, since there is no longer a visible break.
Rick Brodzinsky
Chief Engineer - JACALAR Railroad
Silicon Valley FreeMo-N

mark.hinds

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2018, 01:22:12 PM »
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...and how have you done that? Would like to see some pics!  :)

Mark in Oregon

Here's an image of my shallow MT coupler box mod for the 1021 coupler, mounted at the rear of a brass Samhongsa F7b.  It is made by rotating the top to the 1021 coupler box around to the front, and welding it in place.  The remaining portion of the coupler box to the rear is then cut off.  It still works the same, since the working portion of the coupler box is untouched.  You may be able to drill and tap a hole in the your plastic shell to hold a mounting screw, as I did with the Hallmark brass F7.  IIRC, there may also be a pin on the upper surface of the box which requires a hole (to give 2-point connection). 



« Last Edit: March 19, 2018, 01:36:54 PM by mark.hinds »

NorsemanJack

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2018, 10:50:47 PM »
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I just did a Kato FP7, which I assume is the same as their other (New DCC ready chassis) F's. It's a hole drilled and tapped into the back of the frame with a .030 long spacer made of styrene tubing (can't remember the size, it was in my scrap bin). Run a 00-90 brass flathead screw up through the coupler box and spacer into the tapped hole. I beveled the hole on the bottom of the coupler box so the head of the screw is flush, clearance is pretty tight. Clip off the truck mount coupler and round off the back of the coupler box to ensure clearance. The screw is not tightened down all the way, so the coupler box can pivot side to side, since the short Tru Scale couplers have so little side swing themselves. I used a little tacky glue as a thread lock to ensure it doesn't work itself any looser. The older split frame versions would be another story..........

Tom L.
Wellington CO

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I'm curious why you would take such drastic measures with that Kato locomotive when either the Red Caboose or Kato dummy coupler would provide close coupling in a much simpler (and reversible) manner?  I really wouldn't like the idea of butchering the Kato truck just to allow body mounting.

Tom L

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2018, 05:59:55 AM »
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I'm curious why you would take such drastic measures with that Kato locomotive when either the Red Caboose or Kato dummy coupler would provide close coupling in a much simpler (and reversible) manner?  I really wouldn't like the idea of butchering the Kato truck just to allow body mounting.

I have a short Milwaukee road local type passenger train that I use the single FP-7 on. It's a combination of Kato, Fox Valley and MT passenger cars that I have converted to Tru scale couplers.  So when I got the FP-7, it looked like a pretty straight forward conversion and I wanted a consistent look of all the same couplers.

I guess the whole thing could be reversed by buying a new rear truck,but I just don't care for how truck mounted couplers look, so even if I wanted something more functional back there, I could just replace the a Tru scale with a 1015.

Tom L
Wellington CO


AKNscale

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2018, 09:36:43 PM »
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I'm curious why you would take such drastic measures with that Kato locomotive when either the Red Caboose or Kato dummy coupler would provide close coupling in a much simpler (and reversible) manner?  I really wouldn't like the idea of butchering the Kato truck just to allow body mounting.

If you don’t want to “butcher” it, buy another front truck and put it on the rear....

NorsemanJack

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Re: "True Scale" Couplers on F Units...
« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2018, 11:26:07 PM »
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I have a short Milwaukee road local type passenger train that I use the single FP-7 on. It's a combination of Kato, Fox Valley and MT passenger cars that I have converted to Tru scale couplers.  So when I got the FP-7, it looked like a pretty straight forward conversion and I wanted a consistent look of all the same couplers.

I guess the whole thing could be reversed by buying a new rear truck,but I just don't care for how truck mounted couplers look, so even if I wanted something more functional back there, I could just replace the a Tru scale with a 1015.

Tom L
Wellington CO

You included Kato in your car listing.  Have you body mounted a tru-scale coupler on a Kato car?  How did that go?