Weekend Update 1/15/17

[dmidkiff]

@MarkJ - Thank you, I used Tru Color paints. Before I get into my method, I have to say that everyone has their own preference and methods that work best, you just have to try different things, there are some good posts here on TheRailwire that can help. One problem I have with Tru Color is that each bottle has a different consistency, I believe this to be the result of the thinner they use flashing off or evaporating in the bottle.  Nominal mix would be 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner, I like to use straight lacquer thinner, it doesn't flash as quickly as acetone and gives me a little more time to keep the paint wet. I use old film canisters to mix my paint and I go to the point where the paint leaves a nice thin, nearly transparent color on the side of the canister as I tip it; the bulk of the mixture should run back down into the canister. I spray at 30psi, that pressure works best for me spraying the paint about 4 inches from the model with quick strokes. I use an Iwata Revolution CR double action brush.  Two light coats from each end to catch the ridges and detail, then a nice wet coat straight on from the side to finish it up.

Hope that helps.

Doug

[rhiadon]

I worked on the layout a bit tonight. Trying to finish up the last bit of roadbed for the section of hidden westboud downhill main. On another note, ive made code 55 unitrack!
No, you can ruin pizza cutters on it but all of my other stuff seems to roll smoothly on it!
Adam Draskovich (Attachment Link)

Adam,

Nice that you discovered this too. I fiddled with this idea a few months back because I wanted to use unitrack for the interconnects between modules but didn't want to use code 80. So I cut a piece of unitrack down and slid some code 55 rail in. Tada, beautiful solid connections from the unitrack with a rail that doesn't look giant.

[chicken45]

Josh,

Having been to several plants where agricultural and construction equipment is manufactured and seeing how the equipment is built and painted, I believe the engine and tracks would have been painted yellow.  The paint would wear off the tracks very quickly once the equipment was in use.

Regards,
Scott

Never saw one that didn't start all yellow.  Except the seat, a couple of knobs, and the gauge glass.

Thanks, guys!

[mu26aeh]

I got my next string of ballast hoppers painted

20170114_121619 by Adam Henry, on Flickr

[wm3798]

Dear lord, is that BALLAST?







I have to work on making the little yard tracks functional next, then it will be on to the staging tracks...

Lee

[narrowminded]

@MarkJ ........ Two light coats from each end to catch the ridges and detail, then a nice wet coat straight on from the side to finish it up.

Hope that helps.

Doug

Very nice finish.  Do you leave any measured time between the first coats from each end for the paint to have time to get some "tooth" or do you go straight to the finish pass?  And I'll guess there's a sealer for the decals.  Any particulars there?  I've done my share of 1:1 painting and can get a very respectable result but no miniature stuff or air brush yet.  Thanks.

[dmidkiff]

@narrowminded - It kind of depends on the scale of the model.  I tend to struggle to keep the paint wet, so if I feel my first two light coats are drying too fast, I will leave it there and come back with the wet coat later.  These were HO models and I had to put a second coat on as the first coat dried before I could get back to it.  If I can keep the paint wet and keep moving with the brush, I'll go to the finish coat right away.  With the N scale models, it's a lot easier as there is less surface area. I use Future to seal my decals and then Model Master acrylic clear for the final semi gloss coat. My dad has painted 1:1 cars his entire life, winning numerous best paint awards at shows, he taught me what I know, but I still can't get the finishes he does.

I'd be interested to hear more detail about how @ednadolski painted his O scale geep.  Seeing as he and I are both in Colorado and used Tru Color paints.  I've seen that loco in person and it does not look like a plastic model.

Doug

[peteski]

@narrowminded  If I can keep the paint wet and keep moving with the brush, I'll go to the finish coat right away. 

That is a very important for achieving smooth paint jobs.

[MK]

@MarkJ - Thank you, I used Tru Color paints. Before I get into my method, I have to say that everyone has their own preference and methods that work best, you just have to try different things, there are some good posts here on TheRailwire that can help. One problem I have with Tru Color is that each bottle has a different consistency, I believe this to be the result of the thinner they use flashing off or evaporating in the bottle.  Nominal mix would be 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner, I like to use straight lacquer thinner, it doesn't flash as quickly as acetone and gives me a little more time to keep the paint wet. I use old film canisters to mix my paint and I go to the point where the paint leaves a nice thin, nearly transparent color on the side of the canister as I tip it; the bulk of the mixture should run back down into the canister. I spray at 30psi, that pressure works best for me spraying the paint about 4 inches from the model with quick strokes. I use an Iwata Revolution CR double action brush.  Two light coats from each end to catch the ridges and detail, then a nice wet coat straight on from the side to finish it up.

Hope that helps.

Doug

Hi Doug,

I use Createx Auto Air (not for MRR) and although from the factory it looks watery sometimes, depending on how long it has been sitting on the shelf, what consistency should the paint be when spraying at 30-35 psi?  I've read something like the consistency of 2% skim milk, which to me is thin like water.

Sometimes I'm lazy to thin and use it straight from an opened bottle and it doesn't spray well.  Yet the paint doesn't look that thick (I'm sure it probably was).  I'm using a Paasche VL double action brush at around 35 psi if that helps.  Should I increase the PSI or just thin it and use more coats?

That paint job of yours is incredible.  Like someone said, like the factory (and they use pad printing).  I think it's better than factory!!! 

[dmidkiff]

@MK - I haven't sprayed Createx in years, I learned on that stuff back in high school doing spheres on paper, I doubt I'll be much help here.  I wouldn't try more pressure.  When I used to spray acrylics (PollyScale and ModelFlex), 2% milk was the consistency to mix to, then I would keep the paint flow minimal as too much would bead up and run off the plastic. Multiple thin coats is best for acrylics in my experience, build up coverage and color. Maybe you are not mixing the paint thoroughly enough?

Doug

[MK]

Thanks for the reply Doug.  Now that I think back, I'm almost 100% sure that the paint was not thin enough.  It's as if the nozzle of the airbrush was partially blocks (it wasn't as I keep my stuff very clean).  Next time I'll aim for 2% milk consistency and do many more multiple coats.