Weekend Update 2/28/16

[Rich_S]

Not sure what you guys are looking at, all I can see is what looks like a major derailment at the coal mine    Just Kidding David, you're off to a great start on the river. Two thumbs up 

[mu26aeh]

Not sure what you guys are looking at, all I can see is what looks like a major derailment at the coal mine    Just Kidding David, you're off to a great start on the river. Two thumbs up 

Haha !  That's what I saw too, you beat me to it.  Though nothing that a couple of side crane crawlers wouldn't get uprighted fairly quickly. 

[Bendtracker1]

David,
I have always enjoyed following along with your build!   
Still do!

I remember when you first started on the layout and you had issues with the rock castings, you weren't happy with them or the way they were going on.  Several folks here jumped in and gave you some good tips and you started over again.

You've made some great progress with fantastic results.
Please keep posting and sharing...

[tehachapifan]

David, I will go so far as to say that your scenery is some of the best I've ever seen! Exceptional work!!

[Santa Fe N Scale]

After a couple of setbacks I'm calling this one done. Got the Loksound Micro programmed and she's running good.




Bob

Sweet looking engine Bob! Nice work!

Craig

[unittrain]

Got struts built and installed on part of upper chord to my bridge scratchbuild.

[Scottl]

Love those bridge parts!

[Jim Starbuck]

Finally finished TMER&L #4.

It'll be running this weekend at the High Wheeler show at Harper College in Palatine IL with the Modutrak guys.

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[davidgray1974]

Thanks everyone for the great comments and suggestions!
 

The deep pool just past the bridge is the only thing that immediately grabs me as not quite natural.  A scour pool like that would tend to have a steeper cut bank corresponding to it.

Nice observation and I completely agree.  Will definitely make it look more gradual.

Haven't used Tamiya but used plenty o' Magic Water.
MW takes solvent-based paints, so I usually mixed drops of Floquil BNSF Green with a few drops of Grimy Black (it really doesn't take too much to tint).

Magic Water is amazing in it's ability to creep, soak, drip through any pore, so I've found doing a small first initial darker-tinted pour is worth it to both get a feel of the ooze/color & to allow it to seep in & seal any holes.
Just drip it along the center bed & then use a disposable brush to push into crevices.
Especially as you already have rock/dirt material secured, this way the next day you'll see how it far it goes.
The good news is that it doesn't go much farther than the first pour

Just advocating for the slim-pour / fat-pour method.
Need a dam good dam, too.
Food for thought.

Great suggestions M.C.!  I've seen some videos online where people commented on the curing time taking almost a week.  Have your experiences been the same?



Thanks again everyone!  Rail wire has always been an invaluable modeling resource and I can't say enough great things about everyone here.

David

[M.C. Fujiwara]

I've seen some videos online where people commented on the curing time taking almost a week.

Only when I didn't mix proper ratios 
Or when I didn't stir/mix it enough 

If anything err a little heavier on the fixer.

But you do need to stir/mix the crap out of it.
I mix it a lot, and then add the drops of solvent-based paint, then mix some more.
If done properly, should only take 24 hours to cure.

Do the thin pour just so it soaks into the surfaces.
If it's still sticky to your fingers 3 days later, you messed up the mix.
But it will still eventually cure.
You don't have to wait for it cure, though.
Just pour another (properly mixed) thin layer over it.
Use an old (but not shedding cheap) brush or even a dowel to push the MW into crevices & around rocks: basically outline with MW where you want it to go & the tension will keep it there.

Unless there's a little hole somewhere, & then it'll find it and all spill out.
Another reason for a small thin first pour, and for putting plastic down on the floor well beyond the bounds of your pour space: that stuff can travel under wood & start dripping many inches away from where you pour 

[CNR5529]

Finally finished TMER&L #4.

It'll be running this weekend at the High Wheeler show at Harper College in Palatine IL with the Modutrak guys.

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@Skytop 47, beautiful model! Not sure if you mentioned it yet or not, but is this a kit or a scratchbuild?

[Scott Lupia]

Bill, nicely done brake pipe hoses on #4!  Nothing harder than bending one of those things in 2 degree weather!  The engine. Is really nice too!

Scott Lupia

[Philip H]

Finally finished TMER&L #4.

It'll be running this weekend at the High Wheeler show at Harper College in Palatine IL with the Modutrak guys.

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That is a serious thing of beauty.  remind me - is it a Shapeways shell?

[Jim Starbuck]

That is a serious thing of beauty.  remind me - is it a Shapeways shell?

Thanks guys,

This is a heavily modified Shapeways shell on a BanDai chassis with a DZ126 decoder.
The rivet detail are Archer decals and there are lots of scratched details.

The designer did an excellent job on it.
A search for Baldwin Westinghouse should find it.

Jim

[skytop35]

Bill, nicely done brake pipe hoses on #4!  Nothing harder than bending one of those things in 2 degree weather!  The engine. Is really nice too!

Scott Lupia

Nice work indeed but I can't take credit. That is the work of my friend and fellow Modutraker Jim S. He is skytop47, I'm skytop35 !