Weekend Update 2/1/15

[nkalanaga]

Puddington:  By 1973 every car in interchange service had to have an ACI label, so, yes, you need to add them.  The GN (and BN) were among the roads that liked the system, unlike some, so these cars would certainly have had them.

If the photo dates are accurate, newly delivered GN cars started receiving ACI plates in 1968.  It's hard to tell how accurate the dates in a book are,, but the cars in question look new (unweathered), and the "NEW" dates match the published dates.  By the BN merger it appears that all GN, and probably NP, cars already had the plates.

Somewhat off topic:  ACI "labels" are actually metal plates, so shouldn't be modeled with decals.  Has anyone ever made peel-and-stick ACI plates, from self-adhesive paper or foil?  It would be a lot easier than decaling a finished model, then trying to match the flat finish, and be prototypical.

[Cajonpassfan]

I'm typically very disciplined about my purchases and don't own too many things that don't fit my place and era. But, for some heretofore unexplained reason, I recently acquired an inexpensive Metrolink set off feebay. How I will explain a Metrolink commuter train in my circa '50 San Bernardino is beyond me.... a vision of things yet to come?
Otto K.
PS: after some tweaking and reprogramming, the DCC/sound engine sounds truly good!

[eja]

Ryan,


Nice work .... how do you power those Amtrak marker lights once they are in the car?  Are you DCC or DC ?


eja

[jagged ben]

I'm typically very disciplined about my purchases and don't own too many things that don't fit my place and era. But, for some heretofore unexplained reason, I recently acquired an inexpensive Metrolink set off feebay. How I will explain a Metrolink commuter train in my circa '50 San Bernardino is beyond me.... a vision of things yet to come?
Otto K.
PS: after some tweaking and reprogramming, the DCC/sound engine sounds truly good!

The  station hasn't changed much.  Just say there was a classic car event going on that day.   

[Puddington]

I know I should add the ACI plates but the thought of sitting down and adding two decals to 100's and 100's of cars is as mind numbing as watching the Maple Leafs play....... hey, wait.. I already do that........

[wm3798]

Did a little paving around Highlandtown and Canton this weekend.  More in the Layout Engineering Reports section.

Lee

[CodyO]

My first attempt at weathering a building

[Santa Fe Guy]

Otto Maybe you had a temperature that day LOL.
Rod.

[John]

Just in time for an ops session next weekend, I got my CTC panel just about done ..

[Chris1274]

No modelling to report yet, but I now have all the turnouts for my upcoming layout:



Next stop: Home Depot for a 36x80 HCD

[mark dance]

No modelling to report yet, but I now have all the turnouts for my upcoming layout:



Next stop: Home Depot for a 36x80 HCD

Nice...good, solid, trustworthy engineering

md

[kalbert]

Renumbered three MT GN Grain hauler hoppers and now trying to weather them... not done yet, have to dirty the sill up some... kinda a boring project but only have three GN hoppers left and the 27 GN hopper fleet (of varying types, sizes and liveries) is done...

Nice work there. Can we get a whole fleet pic?

[Mark W]

Scenic upgrades on some of my Free-moNebraska modules. 







Once that glue dries, just a quick touch-up of ballast on the ends, add trees, and we're done!

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

Well I got the Grain Elevator done and ready to sell. I think we got it cheap at a show because the walls were put together wrong. I didn't notice until I had it all painted windows in and really for final gluing of the sheds. Well what would you know the long shed stuck out the wrong side of the elevator. So I had to hack the long shed apart and flip the half back panel so it would work the wrong way around. Then the hole in the roof needed to be moved. For anyone who has this kit and hasn't built it at least once MAKE SURE THE WALLS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDES. The walls only fit one way if you are building it the way the kit comes.









Jeff

[ryan_wilkerson]

Peteski,
Thanks but I think it was a lot of luck and some tricks I had read about from you guys on the forum. Next project will be replacing headlights in some locomotives. Then I might tackle ditch lights. I had purchased this size red LEDs for crossing gates but that looks to be much trickier.

I agree that I could have used a larger LED but these were the ones I had purchased so I gave it a shot.

Thanks for detailing your method...I definitely need to have a process that involves less luck.
-Ryan

Nice job Ryan!  You are not a member of the exclusive 0402 soldering club!   
For that particular install you had plenty of empty space behind the marker lenses. A 0603 or 0805 size LED would have worked just a well with less stress on you during soldering.  When I solder 0402 LEDs I usually resort to using my dissecting zoom-stereo-microscope. It makes the job much easier than just a magnifier.    You do have a very good soldering iron - that is also important for the job.  Steady hand and light touch is also required.

I usually make up a strip of blue masking tape with the adhesive facing up.  To do that I split a length of 1" wide tape lengthwise into 3 strips. I glue the outside strips (adhesive-to-adhesive) on both sides of the center strip.   That way I end up with a piece of tape where the center piece has the adhesive facing up.  I stick this tape to some surface I'll be using for soldering.  Then I place the SMD LED upside down on the exposed adhesive.  That gently holds the LED in place. Then using a sharpened toothpick I put a very small amount of Radio Shack electronic soldering paste on the LED's pads.  That will make the soldering job much easier and cleaner.  Then I put a tiny amount of solder on the very tip of the iron.  Next, with one hand I hold the end of a stripped magnet wire over the LED's pad and then I touch the area with the soldering iron's tip with the solder on it.  The soldering paste does its job and I end up with a nice and clean joint. Then I repeat the process on the other side. I have to be very quick no to re-melt the first joint.  The heat from soldering softens the tape's adhesive a bit but it usually holds the LED pretty well.