Intermountain SD 40T-2

[phil55]

Any thoughts on this loco? Just picked one up cheap.

[C855B]

Not too bad. Mine operates well enough, but parts like handrail stanchions like to come loose, and I am having a devil of a time keeping the body "snapped" on the chassis after adding DCC and an extra light board for the SP-style Gyralite over the cab. Nothing that won't benefit from a little bit of undistracted bench time.

[sdodge]

There has been a lot of discussion and debate about these models over the years. Personally, I have 3 from the earlier runs that have multiple issues and are now basically hanger queens. Others have had more positive experiences.

[SkipGear]

My only complaint is the porches are not strong enough. When pulling long trains, they can flex/deflect enough that the couplers can release from the next engine or train car. It can be fixxed by gluing some styrene under the porch to stiffen it. The handrails are fragile but other than that, the ones I have run fine.

[jagged ben]

As long as you pick them up 'on the cheap' they can be a pretty good deal.  They have quite a number of small problems, but I've found workarounds and have kept running mine often.

As was mentioned, handle carefully to avoid dislodging and/or breaking handrails.

One of mine had the 'bending porch' problem mentioned above, which both looked bad and caused coupler problems;  I was eventually able to obtain a new shell for that one 'on the cheap', which didn't have the same problem.

The shell does not fit precisely on the frame and this can cause the trucks to bump up against the steps at the ends.   When placing the shell back on, take a jewelers screwdriver, and from underneath and one end or the other, carefully adjust the shell to have equal size gaps at both ends.  On a couple of mine I also added small squares of electrical tape around the little circular 'bubbles' on the sides of the frame, to keep the shell firmly on the frame.

While these do have some mistakes when it comes to prototype fidelity (e.g visible fans in the radiator section), I do appreciate the correct nose lights on the SP and D&RGW versions.   I have added additional lighting to 3 of mine (with DCC) and they are my favorite leaders for SP and D&RGW trains.

Pulling wise, they are similar to Atlas SD60s and such, which is to say not great.  Usually I run mine with a couple Kato SD40s or SD45s in the consist for better pulling power.  But the tunnel motors still get to lead with their lights.      

On one of mine, I replaced the wheels with Kato low profile wheelsets.  Runs a bit better now. 

[ryan_wilkerson]

I agree with Ben's suggestion on the Kato low profile axles. Makes them perform better and really improves the appearance too. This trick works on Atlas SD50/60 also and reduces the middle axle bounce.

[Ike the BN Freak]

I got a few, most for cheap...need to get a handrail set for one, as it was a used unit with broken handrail.

Also plan on doing the truck detailing that Mike Danneman (sp?) did in an N Scale Railroading a few years back, adding traction motors to the axles closest to the fuel tank.

[Leggy]

I've been keen to get some SD45-2s for the GDRMCo but I'm a bit on the fence about the IM model, would a detailed shell on a Kato SD40-2 mech be the best option?

[ryan_wilkerson]

I've been keen to get some SD45-2s for the GDRMCo but I'm a bit on the fence about the IM model, would a detailed shell on a Kato SD40-2 mech be the best option?

If I recall correctly, the IM SD45-2 shell is the right length to accept the Kato SD40-2 mechanism but will require some thinning of the mechanism (width) to make it fit.

[Leggy]

Shouldn't be too hard I'd guess, thanks.

[oakcreekco]

I got rid of all of mines years ago, and I'm a DRGW modeler.

I'm a "runner" and they just had too many issues for operation, and needed continual bench time to stay on the roster.

I would buy another batch in DRGW if they were new, and $20-30 a piece. Look good for display.

That's my thoughts on these, and that's with countless hours of working on them for running reliability.

[unittrain]

Was thinking about getting a couple of the SD45-2's when they first were announced years ago and the bad reviews stopped me from purchasing any. I was thinking about getting a couple again but this review of the SD40T has me scared again  probably will hold off especially with the prices they command  which is totally ridiculous given the problems people have with these    I have the F3A and like it they are good units Going to get a B&O F7A and B when they come out.

[dave n]

I've got 6 of them; 4 of them are regular runners on the layout (with the limitations that others have mentioned above).

Once weathered and tuned, and stashed in consists w/ Kato 'pullers', they perform well and look great ...well, sufficiently grungy anyway, in keeping with the SP tradition. . .

[carlso]

I have 3 of them and would agree with all of the comments from previous posts. I have never heard about KATO wheelsets making them better. Mine would hardly pull its own shadow and I found that decoders were extremely difficult to install with my 73 year old thumby (?) fingers. Oh well, I pulled all of the gearing and motors and made "dummies" out of them. Now they run very well with my KATO units and look pretty good as well.
Carl

[spam1234jay]

I have a SD45-2T that the rear part of the shell keeps raiseing up making the coupler to high any suggestion to fix this? The unit runs fine. Hand rails are very tender. I really like it but its still dc I haven`T put a decoder in it yet would like a sound decoder maybe