Need some tips on installing Micro-Train couplers

[Bart1701]

I am finally going to start replacing Rapido couplers with Micro Trains couplers. I have been putting this off for years, but I guess the time has come. I was hoping everyone could share any general all-purpose tips and suggestions they had on putting these together and getting them on the locos and rolling stock with the least amount of difficulty.

I was specifically interested in tips on handling the tiny little springs and tine little screws that are involved with the couplers you have to assemble. If the past is any indication of the future, I would end up dropping the screws or shooting the springs off into some direction never to be seen again. 

Thanks,
Bart

[Kisatchie]

Micro-Trains gives instructions with their couplers, but since you're new at assembling them, you'll find you need help. I'm not capable of making one, but a video would really be helpful. Maybe Youtube has some.

If you use an X-Acto knife blade to pick up the springs very close to the end, the springs will be far less likely to disappear into space. Putting the springs into position inside the coupler shanks takes a little practice, but it gets easier the more you do.

One suggestion - don't try to do a whole lot at one time when you're just learning. Once you have the technique down pat, it'll seem less tedious. I may be a glutton for punishment, but I routinely make a few dozen pairs of couplers at one sitting nowadays.



Hmm... no wonder Kiz is
getting nuttier all the
time...

[rsn48]

Valium helps to keep you calm when you just want to go out and break something because you are having a hard time installing the couplers.

[Hornwrecker]

I use a toothpick to put a dab of Vaseline in the coupler pocket to attempt to keep the spring in place.   Works sometimes well enough for me to assemble one, or even two, before I have to quit in frustration.

[muktown128]

If you use an X-Acto knife blade to pick up the springs very close to the end, the springs will be far less likely to disappear into space. Putting the springs into position inside the coupler shanks takes a little practice, but it gets easier the more you do.

+1

I used a very small flat head screwdriver when I assembled a couple of MT1015's last weekend for installing in a couple of locos.

I would also second the comment about only doing a few until you get the hang of it.

Scott

[Nato]

               Do not I repeat,do not assemble the couplers over a Shag Rug or patterned carpet,a plain floor is better,but work in a large over turned box lid. Those @..*..$..@..# little springs just fly off into eternity at warp speed never to return. Locomotives and cars that can take 1015/16 (old numbers?) couplers, I recommend buying them ready assembled and fitting them into the coupler boxes,some of the others that you have to assemble,then retrofit into the Crapido coupler pocket (box) on the cars are harder to do untill you have done a few,but it certainly is cheaper than buying the truck mounted couplers for a lot of cars.                       Nate Goodman (Nato).

[jdcolombo]

While it is certainly not my idea of fun, it's also not THAT hard once you get the hang of it.  Here's how I assemble 10 pairs of 1015's at one sitting.  Work at a table with a white surface - a nice piece of white posterboard helps.

1.  Cut all the parts off the sprues, and put into 4 piles (top half of coupler, bottom half, coupler box, coupler box top).  Turn the coupler box tops so that the indentation for the coupler pin is facing down, and they are ready to be popped on the coupler box.  Then make a pile of trip pins and a separate pile of springs.

2.  Put trip pins into each coupler bottom half (yes, all 20 of 'em).

3.  Assemble coupler top and bottom half.  I find the MT assembly tweezers handy at this stage, but you can do it without them by simply slipping the top coupler half over the trip pin and lining it up with the bottom half.

4.  Take assembled coupler and put into coupler box.  Hold the box in your left hand with your thumb and first two fingers (thumb and first finger holding the sides of the box, supported at the bottom by your second finger) and use your thumb to force the coupler as far forward against the post on the coupler box as you can manage.

5.  With right hand, take a stiff drink (optional).

6.  With right hand, use the very tip of a #11 blade in a hobby knife to pick up a spring by sliding the knife between the spring coils as far to the right end of the spring as possible.

7.  Put the left end of the spring against the post down inside the coupler; push with the knife toward the post and down to push the right side of the spring inside the coupler, sliding the knife out at the same time, while moving your left thumb over the post and assembled coupler/spring to keep the spring from bouncing out.

8.  Take a coupler box top in your right hand with thumb and forefinger, front of top to your right, and indentation for centering pin down.

9.  Slide coupler top under your left thumb (which should still be covering the coupler box) until you see ends line up.   Your left thumb will now be on top of the coupler top, with your second finger supporting the bottom of the box.   Press down with your thumb until the top clicks into place.  You have assembled one 1015 coupler.

10.  With right hand, take another stiff drink (optional, but highly recommended).

11.  Breathe and repeat.

It takes me about a half hour to assemble 10 pairs of couplers.

John C.

[Day One]

Excellent timing on this thread. I'm about to embark on the same task. 10 packs of 1015's just arrived...

will be body mounting the couplers and switching out to FVM wheels as well.

[nscaleSPF2]

So far, I don't think that anyone has mentioned the MT jig, their part number 988 00 191.  It helps to keep all those tiny pieces from disappearing.  I'm not coordinated enough to assemble these without the jig.

Spraying a small amount of graphite powder into the box also seems to maintain the operation of the coupler, over time.

Here's my benchmark.  One hour to assemble the first one, about 5 minutes to assemble the tenth, including removing the parts from the sprues.  I can't assemble more than 5 pairs at a sitting.  More than that, and my attention starts to wander and I begin to lose parts.  Kis has a much longer attention span than I do.

Don't forget to breathe.  And oh, yeah.  Make sure that you don't put more than one spring into the coupler box.  It's easy for those little buggers to coil themselves together.  Unless your eyesight is really good, you will need a magnifier to see this.  Don't worry if you lose a spring or three.  They give you extras.

Jim

[Kisatchie]

...I can't assemble more than 5 pairs at a sitting.  More than that, and my attention starts to wander and I begin to lose parts.  Kis has a much longer attention span than I do.

I just have a greater pain threshold. It comes from being a manic depressive. And yes, having been in the Army helps.


woo hoo... Army almost
beat Navy this year...

[peteski]

Unless your eyesight is really good, you will need a magnifier to see this. 

That is where Optivisor (with #7 lens plate) comes in. At least for me....    And lots of light!

[Ike the BN Freak]

I build 10 packs of 1015s at a time, kinda like John C does.

I also use the coupler assembly fixture from MT.  It helps somewhat.

[GimpLizard]

The hardest part for me is separating the springs that have "coiled" together.

It's kind of hard to explain, but I use the sharp edge of a X-acto blade. laid lengthwise along the top of the coil. then gently rock(& roll) it back and forth. It isn't easy, but if you do it right, the blade works its way down in between, and dividing, the springs. If you do it wrong, they fly off to spring heaven. 

Oh, and Dee... just so you know... "almost" only counts in horseshoes, hand-grenades... and sex.

[Kisatchie]

Oh, and Dee... just so you know... "almost" only counts in horseshoes, hand-grenades... and sex.

Hmm... (blush)...

[lock4244]

I use a toothpick to put a dab of Vaseline in the coupler pocket to attempt to keep the spring in place.   Works sometimes well enough for me to assemble one, or even two, before I have to quit in frustration.

Does that do anything to lessen the 'slinky' effect?

I have a fool proof method for assembly... I buy a few packs of 1015's unassembled, carefully store them somewhere, and buy pre-built ones for whatever pressing needs I might have (like the M420 kit). The unassembled ones are stored for those less critical needs... the ones that are in the 'someday' pile