Need some tips on installing Micro-Train couplers

[Chris333]

The hardest part for me is separating the springs that have "coiled" together.

This is the main reason I stopped buying 903 Z couplers. I have no problems putting them together, but getting those springs apart is a pain in the 

[Freight Train]

One thing I would add is to use a lid off of a box as a try when assembling the MT couplers. The lid turned upside down creates a barrier that can sometimes help to keep those MT parts from going off on the floor. Especially those little springs. Go to place one into a coupler box and it decides it doesn't want to be a train but wants to fly......The lid acts like flight control and helps keep those little boogers grounded.

[Bart1701]

Thanks everyone - a lot of good advice. Special thanks to John C. for his detailed notes!

It may be a few weeks until I start working on these, but I'll report back on my experience.

Thanks,
Bart

[nkalanaga]

I've used 1025s since they were labeled MT-5, and agree with the knife blade trick.  The box lid as a tray is also very handy, especially since I usually have the lid available for the car being done.  Just make sure the springs and screws don't roll out through any latch slots in the lid!

Chris333:  I've never had a problem assembling the 1025s, although as I've gotten older, magnification helps.  On the other hand, I never could get a 903 to work, even if I did get the springs apart.  So, my narrow gauge gets the preassembled 905s...  It's odd, because the only difference is size, and I can SEE the 903 parts just fine!

For someone just starting the conversion, I'd suggest buying a few packages of assembled couplers, and using them to practice mounting them.  Once you're comfortable with that, then you can try assembling the kits.  Two new skills at the same time can be confusing, if not frustrating.  You might want to try both 1015s, which seem to be the modern preference, and 1025s, which are the original MT body mounts.

[robert3985]

Good advice on the MT assembly jig, using a #11 blade lengthwise to separate the springs, and a #11 blade near the end of the spring to position it.  I use a little spit (SPIT) to keep the spring in place.  Works great.  Just gotta make sure I haven't been sucking on any Lifesavers near the time to assemble my Z-scale couplers, or the couplers won't work.

Also, file the sharp edges off the Magnematic "dongle" (what the hell is that thing called anyway?) before inserting into the hole.

If ya want to assemble Z scale couplers, I use a vasectomy cauterizer to "weld" the covers on in three spots.  Works great.  A fish line hot-cutter available at most fly fishing stores will also do the trick if you don't have a friend who works in a hospital.

One last thing.  Make a transition car (or several), with an MT coupler on one end and a Rapido on the other.  That way, you can run ALL of your cars while converting them.

Happy Converting!!

[GimpLizard]

"If ya want to assemble Z scale couplers, I use a vasectomy cauterizer to "weld" the covers on in three spots."

A vasectomy cauterizer. Ya... vital part of everyone's toolbox. 

[chicken45]

A vasectomy cauterizer. Ya... vital part of everyone's toolbox. 

Was that pun intentional?

Josh

[peteski]

When I assemble the 1023s I simply use a soldering iron with a sharp pointy tip to weld the cover shut (similar to what MT does on their assembled version).  No need for specialized equipment.    BTW, the weld raises the plastic a bit - I just slice that extra plastic off, flush with the surface, using a hobby knife with a sharp (new) #11 blade.

[nkalanaga]

I don't weld them at all.  Just predrill and tap the hole, assemble the coupler, and screw it on right then.  Once it's on it can't come apart.

[Kisatchie]

I don't weld them at all.  Just predrill and tap the hole, assemble the coupler, and screw it on right then.  Once it's on it can't come apart.

That's what I do. Many years ago, I didn't have a soldering iron, so I used a small jeweler's screwdriver heated on the stove burner to melt the couplers shut. Worked pretty good, but I found the couplers worked just as well when I just assembled them and immediately put them on cars.


Hmm... not to mention
all the burns that Kiz
sustained...

[nkalanaga]

Dee:  Not to mention that my main work area is a piece of ceiling tile on my bed!  Hot tools are a fire hazard.  All of my soldering is done in the train room, but there it has to be done standing up, in a small area, not ideal for general model building.

[strummer]

So far, I don't think that anyone has mentioned the MT jig, their part number 988 00 191.  It helps to keep all those tiny pieces from disappearing.  I'm not coordinated enough to assemble these without the jig.

Jim

I find the jig to be invaluable; I find it difficult (at best) to assemble these couplers without it.

Mark in Oregon

[robert3985]

"If ya want to assemble Z scale couplers, I use a vasectomy cauterizer to "weld" the covers on in three spots."

A vasectomy cauterizer. Ya... vital part of everyone's toolbox. 

Yup! 

[Sokramiketes]

This is the main reason I stopped buying 903 Z couplers. I have no problems putting them together, but getting those springs apart is a pain in the 

All you need to do is roll them back and forth between two objects and they will separate.  I use the desktop and my x-acto blade on its side.