Kato GS-4 ?

[Flagler]

I like my GS 4,however they seem to be  a little jerky while nagavating curves of 15" Radius and 133/8" Radius.The engines seems to bind  and slow down .only to return to smooth operation after completing entry into the curve.What can do to help eith this?

[victor miranda]

If you want to know the cause...
do these one at a time.
grease the siderods
oil the axle bearings
oil the gear

after those....
check the tender truck pick-ups
check the connections in the drawbar.

this last one is the most likely
victor

[bobdobbs]

I would check the latter before slapping lubrication on your models, excess lube causes more issues than it fixes.

[Flagler]

The draw bar seems to be a good start.I also have another GS4 that keeps throwing a TT whule going around a 15" radius curve while pulling a load up a 2% grade.Any ideas about this fix?Its the same side of the engine each time.I have replacment TT.Do these get stretch out?

[victor miranda]

not an easy question for me to answer.

I would certainly try a replacement traction tire.

I have read a few ideas about fixes...
paint and various glues.

If you have the tires give it a trial.

victor

[superturbine]

I agree that adding lubrication would likely lead to other problems.  This engine is easly effected by excess lub. Did you add a decoder to this engine?  I would say that the power transfer strips from the tender to the draw bar are not making proper contact.

Do this... with the engine on the track slightly lift the tender and test the power pick of the engine and tender.  Rock the tender back and forth to test the power pickup of the tender.  Surprisingly, some of the GS4’s have poor power pickup on the engine when compared with the tender.  So, look to the tender and drawbar power transfer points for your problem.

Give this a try until Peteski joins in and says were are all idiots and need to learn something about model railroading.

[superturbine]

The draw bar seems to be a good start.I also have another GS4 that keeps throwing a TT whule going around a 15" radius curve while pulling a load up a 2% grade.Any ideas about this fix?Its the same side of the engine each time.I have replacment TT.Do these get stretch out?

Yes the traction tires do stretch out and become useless after mutiple incidents.

[Flagler]

Thanks Super T, How do you replace the TT,up to this point I have always just retreaded it while its to inside of the rods

[superturbine]

You must be very careful to not lose drive the rod pin.  I personally would do this procedure inside of a cloth lined box.  I generally use rail cutters with lite pressure remove the driver rod pin and place the pin in a very safe place.  To install the tire I usually use three small screw drivers.  Install the tire around the upper half of the driver, then with two screw drivers (with one hand) holding the tire at approx. at 9 and 3 o’clock run the third screw drive between the tire and the driver to install the tire.  I do it this way to avoid removing the other driver rod pin (again so I don’t lose one). Others may say to completely remove the driver but I have found this works well. 

Legal notice….. This advice is not recommend to be used for an actual repair and is considered for entertainment purposes only.  Any liability due to over-heating caused by soldering irons is strictly limited to the cost of the solder used.  In addition, liability caused by anyone stabbed by and errant screw driver is limited to the cost of the 4x1/2 inch band aid. 

[Flagler]

You must be very careful to not lose drive the rod pin.  I personally would do this procedure inside of a cloth lined box.  I generally use rail cutters with lite pressure remove the driver rod pin and place the pin in a very safe place.  To install the tire I usually use three small screw drivers.  Install the tire around the upper half of the driver, then with two screw drivers (with one hand) holding the tire at approx. at 9 and 3 o’clock run the third screw drive between the tire and the driver to install the tire.  I do it this way to avoid removing the other driver rod pin (again so I don’t lose one). Others may say to completely remove the driver but I have found this works well. 

Do you have a picyure that shows the drive road pin?


Legal notice….. This advice is not recommend to be used for an actual repair and is considered for entertainment purposes only.  Any liability due to over-heating caused by soldering irons is strictly limited to the cost of the solder used.  In addition, liability caused by anyone stabbed by and errant screw driver is limited to the cost of the 4x1/2 inch band aid. 

[Flagler]

Thanks for the help to all,I found the instuction for the TT install on the kato web site

  Thanks Again

[victor miranda]

Hi Flagler,
ok you found the Kato instructions, good.
I forget those are there.

I feel you need a little warning about replacing the main crankpin
there is only one correct place for it.
the eccentric should be very near the center of the driver.

once you are done, at first run the loco at a slow speed
and look for that crank to be the cause if the loco stalls.
the test is to reverse the loco and it will roll
about 3/4 of a turn the other way.

once you are sure that is right, back to other testing.

superburbine and bobdobbs
I am solidly of the opinion that no lubrication is FAR worse
that any concept of too much.

There is such a thing as too much, I agree.
most of those problems have more to do with getting the lubrication
on the track and scenery than harm to the loco.

When you are looking for causes of curve transitions stalling and stuttering,
there are a whole pile of causes and often more than one.
The lack of side rod and axle bearing lube being high on the list of causes.

in the case of the Kato GS-4... however...
that drawbar and its connections often vary in conductivity
from one angle to another of the engine and tender.
so it is high on the suspect list.

victor

[superturbine]

Victor-  Had I not completely disassembled modified and completely rebuilt over 40 GS-4’s I would say you could be correct.  However, Flager is trying to solve a stalling problem in curves.  In too many GS-4’s I have seen only slightly too much lubrication cause stalling problem.  In my experience, recommending to oil the axel bearing when trying to solve a problematic stalling problem will only lead to additional stalling problems. 

Jason Smith

[Flagler]

I replaced the TT,the small hemastats were the biggest help with the rod pin.
I dont know what to look for as far as the stalling,I susspect its the draw bar,its the engine does not come to a complete stop, but Its not running as good as the others. These engines are DCC.The draw bar connection is complecated as far as I have seen ,I have taken one apart before.It looks ok but something is not working correctly

[SkipGear]

Victor-  Had I not completely disassembled modified and completely rebuilt over 40 GS-4’s I would say you could be correct.  However, Flager is trying to solve a stalling problem in curves.  In too many GS-4’s I have seen only slightly too much lubrication cause stalling problem.  In my experience, recommending to oil the axel bearing when trying to solve a problematic stalling problem will only lead to additional stalling problems. 

Jason Smith

It depends on the lube you are using. Atlas Electrolube (AreoCar Conductalube) is about all I use for N scale lubrication and contrary to popular belief, it does improve electrical contact. Most oils are too heavy for N scale use, including Labell.