Track Painting - Has Anyone Else Noticed This?

[nscaleSPF2]

Recently air brushed about 3 scale miles of Atlas C55 with Floquil RR Tie Brown.  Removed the dried paint off the tops of the rails with 800 grit sand paper, and cleaned the residue off with alcohol.  All was well, and the locos would run ok at about 60 mph.

When slowed to about 30 mph, one of the diesels (a LL) would stall consistently at several locations.  After some head-scratching, and a high magnification, close-up look at the top of the rails, I discovered that there was a microscopic amount of paint on the top of the rail, along the inside edges, everywhere that the loco stalled.  The top the rail has a very slight curvature, so sanding the top of the rail doesn't always get all of the paint off (duh.)

Scraped off this tiny amount of paint with the edge of a razor blade, and magically the loco will now creep the whole way around the layout.

Has any else experienced this?

Jim Hale

[peteski]

How long you waited for the paint to dry?  I usually don't let the paint dry more than few hours.  Then I gently sand it off (using a track cleaning block) then I use lacquer thinner (which is much stronger solvent than alcohol) on a rag to wipe the rail tops clean.  That work for me.  If you let the paint dry and harden too long, it is difficult to fully get it off the rail top.

[up1950s]

I used to drag a razor blade at 10 degrees off vertical when I had a layout ..... I felt it left lass scratch marks to accumulate stuff of the non-conducting kind . I bet the sanding method helps with traction though . The inside radius of the rails is as you found out a primary contact area . The wheels treads are not perpendicular to the wheel face , that way the wheels center themselves betwixt the rails , thus achieving less frog and point problems , and less drag . On inside corners is where the flanges get a rub down . 

[MVW]

FWIW, I don't sand. Before painting, I use the old trick of applying a thin film of 3-in-1 oil to the railtops. Immediately after painting, I wrap rag around a piece of scrap wood, splash a bit of isopropyl alcohol on it, and scrub the rail tops with it. The paint and oil come up quick and easy.

As a finishing touch, I also give the rail tops a quick swipe with a razor blade. Seems to always scrape something up.

Jim

[rogergperkins]

It has been a few years since I followed MR Clinchfield n-scale article directions and air brushed flex track with Polly S roof brown paint.
When I did so with it in place, I immediately wiped the top of the rail with 800 grit "sand-paper" with a block backing. 
My experience more recently with Kato Unitrack did NOT work well in brushing it onto the roadbed.  Paint gets into the track joints and acts as insulation to power flow.
 

[kornellred]

Spread a little (very little) petroleum jelly with a Q-tip on the top and inside surface of the railhead and no sanding will be necessary.  You just wipe the stuff off and away you go.

[DKS]

Everyone has their trick for cleaning painted track. Mine is to use an Xacto chisel blade: first I run it perpendicular to the rail to clean the tops, then run it again at about a 30-40 degree angle to get the inside corner of the rail head. Finally, I wipe the rail down with a rag wet with rubbing alcohol.

I'm not fond of sanding. It roughens the rail head, which tends to accumulate more dirt, and it's easier to miss spots, as you noticed. Even my method isn't perfect, so I will run an engine at slow speed to help find spots I missed.

[mplsjct]

WD40 makes a magic marker that works great for coating the tops of rails prior to painting

http://www.wd40.com/products/no-mess-pen/

I'm not a big fan of applying anything abrasive to the tops of rails.

[Roger Holmes]

Like DKS I use an X-Acto chisel blade and do it right after painting while the paint is still wet (I use spray cans).  I follow up with a dry paper towel wrapped over a flat screw driver blade and before running trains I use a Brite Boy block.  I've only had a few minor issues in a hundred+  feet of track.

[SP-Wolf]

Shortly after painting. Just about as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. (I airbrush) so that is not to long. I run a "brite-boy" over the rails. Then I run a vacuum over the rail. Followed by a cotton cloth (Old t-shirt) with "Goo Gone" or "goof Off"- whatever it's called. Then a dry cloth.  Works well for me.

I don't like putting sand paper to my rails either.

Another 2 pennies worth,
Wolf

[chuck geiger]

After that, two drops of Wahls Clipper Oil....no problems

[DKS]

[/thread]

(Recommended in order to avoid the usual food fight over the pros/cons of adding oil to rails.)

[wazzou]

Isn't using a Bright Boy negatively affecting the rail-head in much the same way that you're trying to avoid by using sandpaper?   

[nscaleSPF2]

Thanks to all you forumers for your insights.  It's nice to know that I'm not the only one who experienced this.

Peteski - I let the paint dry for at least 24 hours.  I used to use lacquer thinner as a solvent, until it killed a co-worker.  They were using it in a confined space, went into a coma, and never woke up.  This kid needs to keep those few brain cells that he has left.

Richie - I forgot to mention that I use 1500 grit sandpaper after I use the 800 grit.  Puts a nice polish on the rails.

Jim

[coosvalley]

Since nobody has mentioned this yet here is my way.....

I wait about an hour after painting ....

I then use a fine sanding sponge, which seems to find those little nooks that sanding blocks miss.......such as the inside of the railhead....

Just my 2cents.....