Author Topic: Body Mounting the couplers.  (Read 4543 times)

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2-8-8-0

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2010, 06:12:31 PM »
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Is that C&O car in your second photo a recent item?? As in, perhaps still available?

Not to derail the thread...but I am easily distracted by Shiny Things!
Just say no to dummy couplers.

bbussey

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2010, 06:16:18 PM »
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Forgot to mention - the way the bracing is with the C&O car, you don't have to glue them in.  Once the diecast centersill is secured, it firmly holds the bracing in place.

Is that C&O car in your second photo a recent item?? As in, perhaps still available?
Not to derail the thread...but I am easily distracted by Shiny Things!

Isn't this your thread to derail?  ;)

Sadly no.  It is the MDC (pre-Athearn) kit version, so they are long gone.  Athearn I believe also released C&O, but I am not certain.  These turn up every so often at train shows.
Bryan Busséy
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Mark5

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2010, 06:17:36 PM »
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bbussey

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #18 on: April 15, 2010, 06:22:24 PM »
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One other detail - you have to notch the bottom of the MDC end sill to clear the top of the MTL 1016 coupler box.  The front face of the coupler box is flush with the end of the car, so everything does line up quite well.
Bryan Busséy
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wm3798

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2010, 06:25:05 PM »
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I was referring to the MT box that's mounted on their trucks.  1015's and 1024's work fine.  But the truck mounted box can't be simply clipped off and body mounted.  There isn't enough room between the wheels.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets

Lee Weldon www.wmrywesternlines.net

Mark5

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2010, 06:27:29 PM »
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I haven't actually body mounted any MDC or Athearn cars, but the cast "underframe" has provisions for body mounts. Looks as if Bryan felt the MTL piece was a better solution.

I bought the MTL parts with even older tooling such as the late 1970s Atlas 90 ton hoppers in mind (no mounting surface on the ends).

bbussey

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2010, 06:32:46 PM »
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I was referring to the MT box that's mounted on their trucks.  1015's and 1024's work fine.  But the truck mounted box can't be simply clipped off and body mounted.  There isn't enough room between the wheels.

Ah.  I misunderstood.

I haven't actually body mounted any MDC or Athearn cars, but the cast "underframe" has provisions for body mounts. Looks as if Bryan felt the MTL piece was a better solution.

I bought the MTL parts with even older tooling such as the late 1970s Atlas 90 ton hoppers in mind (no mounting surface on the ends).

Yes, I filed off the extensions on the diecast underframe.  They were basically in the way.

The MTL parts definitely will work on the older vintage models, but they they will have to be glued in.  You'll also have to use your discretion whether or not to use the finer MTL stirrups juxtaposed with the clunky grab irons, or just use the MTL part for the bracing and brake hardware and keep the existing clunky stirrups.
Bryan Busséy
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2-8-8-0

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2010, 06:43:12 PM »
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I have hopper envy...

Anyway, I am having NO luck tracking down coupler boxes seperate from trucks; McHenry makes them? I see nothing on their site.

Also have no idea what couplers to use...was hoping to place an order, but apparently this will take some research.
Just say no to dummy couplers.

wm3798

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2010, 06:46:56 PM »
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1015's from MT are the most cost effective.  You can get the kit that includes parts for 10 pair for about $12.  You have to get adept at assembling them, but when you're saving that kind of money, it's worth the effort.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets

Lee Weldon www.wmrywesternlines.net

bbussey

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2010, 10:50:04 PM »
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The McHenrys are not offered with coupler boxes yet.  If you're fully sold on the McHenrys, Atlas offers coupler boxes with the Accu-Mates (#23015 at $2.25 MSRP per pair), which is workable even if you discard the couplers (MTL 1015s are $9.40 MSRP assembled per pair).  Atlas doesn't offer a bulk pack on the couplers yet.  Accu-Mates and McHenrys work in the Accu-Mate boxes; all three couplers work in the MTL 1015 boxes.
Bryan Busséy
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2-8-8-0

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #25 on: April 15, 2010, 11:30:03 PM »
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Thank You! That pretty much answered my questions about compatability, I thinks i know what i need now. Really appreciate it folks.

tim
Just say no to dummy couplers.

inkaneer

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #26 on: April 16, 2010, 01:29:29 PM »
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The McHenrys are not offered with coupler boxes yet.  If you're fully sold on the McHenrys, Atlas offers coupler boxes with the Accu-Mates (#23015 at $2.25 MSRP per pair), which is workable even if you discard the couplers (MTL 1015s are $9.40 MSRP assembled per pair).  Atlas doesn't offer a bulk pack on the couplers yet.  Accu-Mates and McHenrys work in the Accu-Mate boxes; all three couplers work in the MTL 1015 boxes.


How do you get the coupler box to clear the outboard axle on the Atlas truck?    On the MT cars the coupling box is above the axle resulting in a higher ride height of the car but on the Atlas truck the coupler box is mounted toward the outside of the outboard axle and thus results in the extended coupling distance between cars. Would not moving the coupler box back so it is flush with the end of the car interfere with the axle?

pfs

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #27 on: April 16, 2010, 01:32:54 PM »
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1015's from MT are the most cost effective.  You can get the kit that includes parts for 10 pair for about $12.  You have to get adept at assembling them, but when you're saving that kind of money, it's worth the effort.
Lee

Didn't MT drop the bulk packs?, I recall they did. Never see them on any vendor www anymore.

bbussey

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #28 on: April 16, 2010, 02:50:28 PM »
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How do you get the coupler box to clear the outboard axle on the Atlas truck?    On the MT cars the coupling box is above the axle resulting in a higher ride height of the car but on the Atlas truck the coupler box is mounted toward the outside of the outboard axle and thus results in the extended coupling distance between cars. Would not moving the coupler box back so it is flush with the end of the car interfere with the axle?

It doesn't become an issue unless the body is so low that the 2004 offset knuckles are required as opposed to the 1015 knuckles.  Just as there is clearance between the top of a truck-mounted coupler box and the bottom of the floor, there is clearance between the bottom of a body-mounted coupler box and the axle.  And if the coupler box is integrated into the model (as with the BLMA CD4000 covered hopper, ESM G26 gon, Athearn Airslide and Bluford hopper), it's never an issue.

The Andrews trucks on the Atlas USRA wood-sheathed and steel-rebuilt boxcars have a lower bolster arm to allow the cars to sit at the correct height over the rails, among the first cars to do so.  I've had no problems installing body-mounted 1015s on those cars, and they sit above the outer axles.



Bryan Busséy
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Kiasutha

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Re: Body Mounting the couplers.
« Reply #29 on: April 16, 2010, 04:08:01 PM »
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"Didn't MT drop the bulk packs?, I recall they did. Never see them on any vendor www anymore."


As of today,MT still lists bulk packs of 1015 in black or brown on their web site.
$12.90 per 10 pairs (unassembled)
« Last Edit: April 16, 2010, 04:10:12 PM by Kiasutha »