gluing down track ballast

[DKS]

interesting method Dave. Can you peel up the track at a later date? I would think once you glued it down with that type of double stick tape it was fairly permanent. The double stick tape i've seen in videos or articles to hold the track in place until the caulk sets is more like the Scotch brand stuff.

Well, how often would one expect to be moving track around on a permanent layout? This is an alternate to all other methods, because it does away with the need for cork roadbed, caulk or other adhesive, and waiting for things to dry. You can start ballasting the instant the track is down.

Now, if you must make changes, remove as much ballast as you can (if it's been ballasted), then slice through the foam horizontally with a packing knife. This of course means removing the remains from the track. With care, after soaking off the ballast, it will usually peel right off track; if it doesn't, apply heptane (rubber cement thinner) to remove the remains of the tape.

What's great is the double-stick tape will instantly bond to any type of subroadbed--wood, foam, styrene, sheet metal, whatever. And the track instantly bonds to the tape very securely. Since it is indeed permanent, I lay the track using pushpins before removing the tape cover as a tracklaying "rehearsal." If after securing the track minor adjustments are required, you can flood the area with heptane, wait about 30-60 seconds, and the adhesive softens enough you can shift the track around a little, and when the solvent has evaporated, the track is re-secured.

Many moons ago I did a clinic on it, and the attendees were quite amazed. I may one day make a video of the clinic so people can see why I don't use any other method for tracklaying. You can lay all of the track of a good-sized layout literally in a matter of minutes.

If you have back issues of MR, you can read my article "Double-sided foam tape makes tracklaying quick and easy" in the March 1992 edition, page 110.

[diezmon]

The only advantage of washer fluid over alcohol is the smell.BUT,I would never use washer fluid,simply because the blue dye may stain the ballast.

nah.. it really doesn't..  I've never ever noticed a shade of blue..

[MichaelWinicki]

Well, i'm concerned about the alcohol' s dissolving properties in that it may cause the glue to... well... not be glue... that is since i'm using WS scenic cement rather than 50/50 white with water.


-Cody F.

No... it has no affect on the glue, either scenic cement, which I've used in spots or diluted white glue.

I ballasted mine in 2009 and it has survived temperature ranges from 0 to 90 degrees and almost daily train running with none of it loosening.

[MichaelWinicki]

I painted most of my track after it was laid.

I tried doing some flex track before it was laid but the the painted rails played a little havoc when creating curves and the spike heads would peel off the paint.

I found the Floquil Weathered Black marker to be a gem when it comes to painting the webbing of the rail. 

The darker you paint the webbing of the rail, the smaller the rail looks.

I also did some industrial tracks using a rust colored paint.

[VonRyan]

No... it has no affect on the glue, either scenic cement, which I've used in spots or diluted white glue.

I ballasted mine in 2009 and it has survived temperature ranges from 0 to 90 degrees and almost daily train running with none of it loosening.

What type of ballast are you using?

I'm using WS medium grade buff-colored currently on my N-Trak module on cork roadbed, first "painted" with full strength white glue, ballast spooned on and then moved with the spoon to get the shoulder right, then misted finely with cold tap-water with 2-3 drops of  thinned joy yellow dish soap. As is i've never noticed any soap left over on the ballast, no smell, no odd texture, just a very hard bond of the ballast to the roadbed. To debond the ballast i use 70-90% alcohol applied with an oral-type syringe at a ratio of a oit 10-15ml per sq. inch.

When the alcohol evaporates the glue is non-existent, gone up in fumes, and the ballast back in its granular form.

-Cody F.

[Carolina Northern]

David,

I remember that article - didn't realize it was you.

[MichaelWinicki]

What type of ballast are you using?


-Cody F.

Hey Cody, it's High Ball N scale ballast.  A combination of 6 parts light gray ballast, 6 parts dark gray ballast and 1 part black.

[VonRyan]

Hey Cody, it's High Ball N scale ballast.  A combination of 6 parts light gray ballast, 6 parts dark gray ballast and 1 part black.

I see. I've yet to find anything with a good tan color like WS buff, i'd prefer a real-rock ballast, but unless someone comes out with a tan color that is like WS buff before glue is applied, i'll be forced to stay relegated to walnut shells.

-Cody F.

[mmyers]

Alcohol evaporates faster than water. I use it instead of water to dilute my white glue. It's an old painter's trick.

[Flatrat]

Thanks Cody, for the color, ballast texture, comments and your take on what works well for you.

Windshield washer fluid seems diluted to about 30% alcohol to water, if you use the expensive brands then there may be about 1% detergent in the mix, probably why people report little alcohol smell. If people are diluting the 70% rubbing alcohol in the medicine chests 1:1 then it's about the same effect without the blue tint. I haven't read so far about anyone complaining their track lifted from the layout with those dilution rates so I'm going to guess that works as a safe ratio.

MMyers sounds like you may be doing a one step process on your ballast if you're diluting glue with alcohol. How do you hold your track down on your layout? Glued/caulked first? Track nails? cork roadbed or no cork?

[Flatrat]

Hey Cody, it's High Ball N scale ballast.  A combination of 6 parts light gray ballast, 6 parts dark gray ballast and 1 part black.

That's a thirteen part mix? Is that metric or something? [chuckle] thanks Mike. Looks good. I like the blend in your photo and think adding some staining on top of it between the rails will look real nice.

I like the Floquil marker ideas on the rails too. thanks,

Scott

[LV LOU]

Well, how often would one expect to be moving track around on a permanent layout? This is an alternate to all other methods, because it does away with the need for cork roadbed, caulk or other adhesive, and waiting for things to dry. You can start ballasting the instant the track is down.

Now, if you must make changes, remove as much ballast as you can (if it's been ballasted), then slice through the foam horizontally with a packing knife. This of course means removing the remains from the track. With care, after soaking off the ballast, it will usually peel right off track; if it doesn't, apply heptane (rubber cement thinner) to remove the remains of the tape.

What's great is the double-stick tape will instantly bond to any type of subroadbed--wood, foam, styrene, sheet metal, whatever. And the track instantly bonds to the tape very securely. Since it is indeed permanent, I lay the track using pushpins before removing the tape cover as a tracklaying "rehearsal." If after securing the track minor adjustments are required, you can flood the area with heptane, wait about 30-60 seconds, and the adhesive softens enough you can shift the track around a little, and when the solvent has evaporated, the track is re-secured.

Many moons ago I did a clinic on it, and the attendees were quite amazed. I may one day make a video of the clinic so people can see why I don't use any other method for tracklaying. You can lay all of the track of a good-sized layout literally in a matter of minutes.

If you have back issues of MR, you can read my article "Double-sided foam tape makes tracklaying quick and easy" in the March 1992 edition, page 110.

David,I'd be a little leery of using double back tape,unless I was someone who changes railroads frequently.I have MANY RC cars and other projects that are over ten years old,frequently,some brands of double back tape turn pretty much to dust after a few years,many turn rock hard,some shrink,some turn to cheese,many just loose their grip..Never had that happen to cork..

[peteski]

That's a thirteen part mix? Is that metric or something? [chuckle] thanks Mike.

Um, if you feel uncomfortable with the thirteen part mix here is a formula which will work just a well:
A combination of 12 parts light gray ballast, 12 parts dark gray ballast and 2 part black.

[DKS]

David,I'd be a little leery of using double back tape,unless I was someone who changes railroads frequently.I have MANY RC cars and other projects that are over ten years old,frequently,some brands of double back tape turn pretty much to dust after a few years,many turn rock hard,some shrink,some turn to cheese,many just loose their grip..Never had that happen to cork..

For one thing, I only ever use 3M brand tape; their adhesive formula is the best in the industry. Back in the early 80s when I worked for a sign company, we attached a sign to a brick building with 3M foam tape. When the company moved several years later, they took the sign down--and the tape tore off some of the brick. I still have some models I assembled in the 80s with the tape, and they're in perfect condition. When I built a diorama recently (http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/chapter_8.htm), I used track pieces I'd laid in 1990, and tape was every bit as strong as it was when new. One nice thing about the tape is that it allows the track to assume a more even contour, since the foam will compensate for small irregularities in the subroadbed.

I've been using the tape for tracklaying since the 80s, and have never had an issue with any of it. I continue to use it with complete confidence. On the other hand, I've seen a lot of cork get hard and disintegrate over time, and I've watched some of it swell up and distort during ballasting and force track out of alignment.