An N-Possible journal

[peteski]

Very enlightening info  Gary, but I noticed that the photos are hosted on a host outside TRW (Flicker). I know Flicker has been around forever, but there is still a chance that someday all the text will remain visible here but the vital photos will be gone. 

[learmoia]

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "1015 retrofit conversion" but it is worth emphasizing that an N-P shank is a drop-in-place substitute for an MTL coupler in a genuine 1015

I guess a better way to ask the question..

How often are you running into obstructions behind a 1015 style box that obstructs the spring? like Locomotive trucks built in boxes, car frames, ect..


~Ian

[GaryHinshaw]

I don't really have a good answer to that yet, but as I add examples to my index in the OP, I will try to record that info next to each car style.  For locos, my fleet is overwhelmingly dominated by Kato 6-axle power, and there are no clearance there.  I just haven't taken the time to do the conversions yet.  I'd look to Andrew's web site for more guidance on other loco models.

Below are two examples of boxcars that used the retro-fit shim but required a bit of minor surgery.  I do have other examples coming up of retro-fit conversions where no surgery was required.

[GaryHinshaw]

Two 50' box cars with extended draft gear.  Next up are two PC&F box cars that used the retro-fit shim in the existing extended draft gear: the Rapido  B-100-40 (left) and the Wheels of Time 70-ton insulated car (right):



The conversion of the Rapido car required a bit of trimming around the back of the box with a chisel type blade, but it was very straightforward:



In addition to the coupler conversion, I added a thin printed washer and a truck screw bushing to help stabilize the very wobbly trucks:



This step is optional, but it vastly improves the tracking stability of these cars.  The parts may be found here.  The scale coupler looks a bit lost in the oversize draft gear, but the look is still much improved:



The Wheels of Time car was very similar.  I had to remove a bit of material behind the box, but it was also very simple:



I also lightly filed the inside of the box lid just a bit to make sure the couplers swivel freely.  (They do.)  The resulting appearance and performance improvements are similar to the Rapido box:

[James Costello]

@GaryHinshaw are the two boxcar examples above with a medium shank?

Thanks for the documentation!

[GaryHinshaw]

Ah, forgot to mention that.  Both are short shank.

[Sokramiketes]

Some transition era notes too. Anything that had a 1015 body mounted is a pretty straightforward conversion. Here’s an FVM wagon top. No hat needed on the nPossible to make the height work.

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[Sokramiketes]

And flatcars are always a question. One of the best is still the GHQ 53’ AAR flat.

Screw right to the deck, and a 4mm screw length is flush with the deck on top.

I wouldn’t mind lowering the car a bit further, but that’s major surgery to move the coupler pocket up into the deck.

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[garethashenden]

And flatcars are always a question. One of the best is still the GHQ 53’ AAR flat.

Screw right to the deck, and a 4mm screw length is flush with the deck on top.

I wouldn’t mind lowering the car a bit further, but that’s major surgery to move the coupler pocket up into the deck.

The existence of these couplers opens up the possibility of advancements in N scale flatcars. I know I'm not happy with the ride height of any of mine.

[nickelplate759]

So, if I'm replacing a 1015 body-mount, it probably has an 00-90 screw in it.  Should I just re-use that?  Seems that trying to force an M1.2 screw in might be a bad idea, but all these pictures seem to show new M1.2 screws.   Those M1.2 screws are certainly nicer than the sliver or brass round-top 00-90s I have.

[Sokramiketes]

So, if I'm replacing a 1015 body-mount, it probably has an 00-90 screw in it.  Should I just re-use that?  Seems that trying to force an M1.2 screw in might be a bad idea, but all these pictures seem to show new M1.2 screws.   Those M1.2 screws are certainly nicer than the sliver or brass round-top 00-90s I have.

Just run it home.  The M1.2 screws have phillips heads.  Combine that with a nice Wiha precision screw driver and you'll throw out all the flat head 00-90 that you've collected over the years.  They're just too fiddly. 

[GaryHinshaw]

The only time I will ever use a slot head 00-90 again is if I have a car with a pre-tapped 00-90 hole in a metal frame.  In that case, (re)starting the screw is pretty easy.

[turbowhiz]

So, if I'm replacing a 1015 body-mount, it probably has an 00-90 screw in it.  Should I just re-use that?  Seems that trying to force an M1.2 screw in might be a bad idea, but all these pictures seem to show new M1.2 screws.   Those M1.2 screws are certainly nicer than the sliver or brass round-top 00-90s I have.

You can still use a 00-90 screw no problem with the scalebox parts. I was using 00-90 screws myself since I had a pile on hand, and it was technically developed with that size in mind as it is the traditional standard. That said, the M1.2 are a better option if you are buying screws, I bought some on Amazon along with a tap and it was cheap. And slot heads stink, so going forward I’ll be sticking with the m1.2 myself.

[garethashenden]

My plan is to use the existing screw if I’m reusing an existing hole. If it’s a new screw then M1.2, purely on a cost/availability basis.

[GaryHinshaw]

An Atlas 42' coil steel car and an Athearn articulated auto rack.  These two conversions are both fairly easy:





The coil car is a straightforward retro-fit with a medium length shank:



The only modification I made was to add a 0.2 mm truck washer to bring the coupler height up to spec.  The washer may be found here.

The auto rack is equally straightforward.  I screwed a scale box with a short shank directly to the car's floor:



I lined up the front face of the box with the end of the car:



The short shanks work fine with 18" curves.  If you have sharper curves, you may need to go with a medium shank.  At some point long ago I swapped in MTL truck-mount couplers to bring the car spacing closer than with the stock Athearn couplers.  The coupler height is perfect with the MTL trucks; I'm not sure what it would be like with the stock Athearn trucks, but it's probably fine.