An N-Possible journal

[GaryHinshaw]

^Awesome job on porting these notes over Ed.  The site even looks good in my phone - unlike TRW.   

Two Athearn tankers.  This post covers two styles of modern Athearn tankers: the 30K ethanol tanker and the 33K LPG tanker. 



There have been at least 3 generations of these cars produced now: the first had truck-mount couplers with dodgy end platforms, the second had body-mount couplers, but no additional detail, the third added cut levers and air hoses to the end detail.  This post covers the two body-mount phases, but not the the truck-mount models.  (Those will eventually get bespoke 3-d printed replacement platforms.)

These are both very straightforward retro-fits with short shank couplers.  The only modification I made to the model was to add a ~0.25 mm printed truck washer to bring the coupler height to spec, but this is optional.  They are close enough to spec to work reliably without it.  (I'm just anal.)



The improvement in appearance and reliability is awesome, and the reduction in coupled car spacing is dramatic compared to the stock McHenry couplers:



These will look even better when they're weathered - and eventually replaced with shelf couplers.   

Added - I am not totally happy with the ride height on the ethanol tankers.  They should really be riding about 6" lower, but that improvement will have to wait for replacement end platforms.  The ride height on the LPG tamnkers is pretty good as is though.

[GaryHinshaw]

@James Costello , I love the weathering on both SP cars!

[James Costello]

@James Costello , I love the weathering on both SP cars!

@GaryHinshaw thanks mate. I'm still living that "Fading Fast" life down here.

Perhaps a equally important side bonus of these new couplers is being pushed to finish some stalled weathering projects and get some projects finished.

[OrangeAnon]

These will look even better when they're weathered - and eventually replaced with shelf couplers.   

Is that a tease for future N-Ps I see? Can I put in a request for type H couplers for all my passenger equipment? 

[GaryHinshaw]

Can I put in a request for type H couplers for all my passenger equipment? 

You just did. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Alright! All of Gary's posts are now here:
https://www.n-possible.com/doing-the-n-possible

Gary, would you like me to get you set up so you can add them directly?

[GaryHinshaw]

Great job Ed!  Thank you!  RE giving me access: I am quite happy with the job you are doing, but if it makes your life easier, by all means set me up.    Is the intention for there to be a general user-populated blog section on the site?

A tale of two Rapidos.  This post covers two quite nice Rapido cars: the NSC centerbeam flat car and the Procor 5820 covered hopper. 



The hopper is a very straightforward retro-fit with a medium shank coupler.   The only modifications to the coupler pocket are to file down some small protrusions in the rear of the box lid and to remove a very little bit of material under the centring spring:





The 33" wheels were replaced with FVM 3603 wheels.

The centerbeam flats are a staple of Tehachapi trains and the stock Rapido cars were a bit "problematic", so I was very motivated to bring these up to snuff.   I am extremely pleased with the results.  Here is a pair of shots that show all of the parts and the end result:





The modifications are as follows:
* Trim and remove the portion of the air line that sits behind the coupler box.  It interferes with the wheels even on fairly broad curves.
* Trim the outer end of the centre sill to provide clearance for the N-P centring spring.  This portion of the sill is separate plastic part from the cast metal frame, so this step is fairly simple.
* Remove the plastic insert that lines the "roof" of the stock coupler pocket and replace it with a 3-d printed part that includes a splitter and provides the proper vertical clearance for the coupler shank.  (See below for a link to the replacement parts.)
* Replace the stock couplers with a medium shank N-Possible and resuse the stock coupler pocket lid.
* Replace the 33" wheels with FVM 3602 wheels.
* Add a printed washer under the truck and a bushing around the truck screw.  These do not affect the ride height, but they greatly stabilize the relatively wobbly trucks.
* Check that the brake beam detail on the trucks is not loose.  Re-fasten or remove, as necessary.
* Optional: raise the ends of the under-frame air lines with some printed spacer blocks.

This seems like a long list, but each step is easy and the result is a car that performs as well as the best cars in my fleet.  The parts my be downloaded here.

[Olivani]

https://www.cvrco.ca/CVSearch/default.aspx?Manufacturer=517&start=B517-101SBXK&end=B517-301URSK

Thanks for doing the research for me, here is my thank you. Thank you 

[CNscale]

Next post posted: https://www.n-possible.com/doing-the-n-possible-posts/tools-of-the-trade

Did you intend to include a link with the phrase "Extensive discussion starting here." ? (Following "M1.2 or 00-90 wafer-head screws.  4 mm is a good length.")

[GaryHinshaw]

Here is the link again, if @Ed Kapuscinski wants to add it:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=54237.msg824445#msg824445

[GaryHinshaw]

[Note - this post is not about a specific N-P installation, just a musing about my OCD.]

Tank cars bring out the worst in me.  Ugh.  I'll be the first to admit that I have some OCD when it comes to freight car looks and performance - especially tank cars.  My goal is for all of the piping, railings, and platforms to be straight and true, and for the ride height to be close to prototype wherever feasible.   After converting a few Athearn tanks to N-P's (described above) my OCD reared up and caused me to stop and reflect...  Shown below are two LPG cars I converted: on the left is one I did a few years ago when I was moving towards LEZ couplers, on the right is a recent N-P conversion of a stock body-mount car:



From a distance they both look fine, and the N-P equipped car definitely has better couplers.   With the LEZ conversion I replaced the end platforms with 3-d printed parts that incorporated an integral coupler box.  This allowed me to lower the car while keeping the coupler height to spec.  With the N-P conversion in the stock box, I had to raise the car ever so slightly to keep the coupler height correct.  Here is a closer comparison:



Note how much higher the right guardrail is compared to the one on the left.   The ride height doesn't seem that much different, so what's going on?  This end view answers the question:



Note how canted the stock platform is on the right.    Now I'm thinking I will be printing new end frames for my N-P conversions too.  My goal is a fleet that looks like this:



even if it takes me years....

[Scottl]

Lol, I'm sending you all my freight cars for the Hinshaw treatment.

[garethashenden]

Lol, I'm sending you all my freight cars for the Hinshaw treatment.

But I think you'd get pictures of real cars in return. Hard to tell if some of them are real or models...

[Kentuckian]

I hope anyone can play?

Bluford Shops 2 Bay Hopper This is a straightforward conversion using the 101-URS-K Short Shank. Drops right in. I apologize for the poor photography. I’m not quite as precise as @GaryHinshaw.

[GaryHinshaw]

Hey, welcome to the party!  I've added this to the index in the OP.  I encourage anyone to post their conversions here, even (or especially) if you have a different approach to a conversion that has already been posted.  We can let @Ed Kapuscinski sort out the port to Andrew's site.