3D printing warp help

[Chris333]

That is what I ment by Will Smith eating spaghetti.

[Dave V]

That is what I ment by Will Smith eating spaghetti.

Before I applied any heat, I noticed how warped the base plate was, so I tugged on it a little. Of course it broke free. That's when I noticed that some of the handrails curled...they must have been under tension. The heat gun actually made a lot of that better, but definitely put a sag in the upper landing.

Oh well.

I could always build the handrails and landing from scratch.

[Dave V]

A little more careful fiddling and everything looks good. No worries.

[Chris333]

I'd guess the model was originally for HO and he just scaled it down, making some of the parts too thin even if they are to scale.

[Dave V]

I'd guess the model was originally for HO and he just scaled it down, making some of the parts too thin even if they are to scale.

Some of the window mullions suggest that's probably true.

[Dave V]

Still working on detail painting (and nothing is glued together yet...not until I install window glazing). The staircase is propped up against the rear of the structure which is why it's leaning. But...good 'nuff.

[John]

Some of the window mullions suggest that's probably true.

The HUNT tower model had that problem .. I think I threw 4 of them out before we got a decent one .. there are so many variables in 3D printing that can contribute to success and failure .. it takes a while to dial that in .. . In Nscale you have to adjust any model scaled down from another design to adjust .. I normally use around .5mm as my minimum dimension for railings and windows .. sometimes I can get decent results at less ..

 I've seen some vendors at train shows that sell 3D printed parts, some are really good, printed with optimized supports, good resin, and proper drying and cleaning .. then I've seen some that think they hit the gold mine and put "junk" that is warped and otherwise flawed .

[Jesse6669]

.. there are so many variables in 3D printing that can contribute to success and failure .. it takes a while to dial that in .. .

I've noticed I have to get the models off the build plate and cleaned promptly, and don't let them sit overnight or the print (absorbs more moisture or something?) wants to bulge/warp and pull away from supports.  I'm also working in Z scale which makes it a little more difficult with thin parts as well.  I sometimes compensate with thicker attachment points--usually .35mm or larger--but with a thin wall or handrail that creates other issues.   

Now if someone made a printer that automatically cleaned parts after printing.. that would be something interesting.  Even if they stay on the build plate. 

[Scottl]

Moisture is an enemy here for sure.  I clean promptly as well.  Self cleaning would sure be nice!

[JeffB]

I've noticed I have to get the models off the build plate and cleaned promptly, and don't let them sit overnight or the print (absorbs more moisture or something?) wants to bulge/warp and pull away from supports.  I'm also working in Z scale which makes it a little more difficult with thin parts as well.  I sometimes compensate with thicker attachment points--usually .35mm or larger--but with a thin wall or handrail that creates other issues.   

Now if someone made a printer that automatically cleaned parts after printing.. that would be something interesting.  Even if they stay on the build plate.

Yes...  The sooner you get the parts off the machine and cleaned the better.  Also, I do not soak the prints long in the alcohol baths.  About 30sec to 90sec tops.  Three cleaning baths to full clean the prints.  Less than five minutes in the IPA total.

Dry the prints on a rack for 24-48 hrs depending on temp and humidity in your drying area.  Then cure.  Don't leave them too long before curing as they can absorb ambient moisture and/or warp pretty significantly.   

You can speed up drying with a heat gun, blow drier or make a simple "oven" with a 100W incandescent bulb and a cardboard box, but don't let the prints get too warm, that can definitely cause them to distort if left unchecked.

Another thing that helps with long parts...  Add supports manually in your 3D design software, then make a thickish raft, stiffening bars around the perimeter...  This will keep the raft from warping the part.  Obviously this is unnecessary if you remove the part from the supports right away.

Jeff

[peteski]

How about using a food dehydrator for curing?  In the model car kit hobby many of us use a food dehydrator (set to about 100-120 deg. F) to speed up paint drying/curing and setting up of resin or epoxy glues.    Sounds like a dehydrator would be handy for the 3D printing hobby.

[JeffB]

How about using a food dehydrator for curing?  In the model car kit hobby many of us use a food dehydrator (set to about 100-120 deg. F) to speed up paint drying/curing and setting up of resin or epoxy glues.    Sounds like a dehydrator would be handy for the 3D printing hobby.

That's one of the things I'd like to pick up in the future Peteski...  I normally dry prints on a rack over my gas furnace in my work area, but with warm weather upon us, the furnace won't be kicking on until fall.  A food dehydrator is a good substitute.

Jeff

[Jesse6669]

I recently tried out a new resin--RESIONE K+ ABS-Like and the warping I am finding on this stuff is far less than what I have used in the past.  They tout its low water absorption and I suspect this is why.  So far the detail is as good as I was getting from the Phrozen RPG and 8K resins.  I'm going to try printing some Z scale horns so we'll see how it holds up to very fine details. 

Edit:  Resione K+ handled this Z horn quite well:

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[Erock482]

I recently tried out a new resin--RESIONE K+ ABS-Like and the warping I am finding on this stuff is far less than what I have used in the past.  They tout its low water absorption and I suspect this is why.  So far the detail is as good as I was getting from the Phrozen RPG and 8K resins.  I'm going to try printing some Z scale horns so we'll see how it holds up to very fine details. 

Edit:  Resione K+ handled this Z horn quite well:

(Attachment Link)

Do you by chance have a side by side comparison of the same print in the phrozen 8k and the Resione? I've been using Phrozen 8K and recently started mixing it with sirya tech tenacious for some better flex/durability. Curious to see how the K+ stuff looks

[Jesse6669]

Do you by chance have a side by side comparison of the same print in the phrozen 8k and the Resione? I've been using Phrozen 8K and recently started mixing it with sirya tech tenacious for some better flex/durability. Curious to see how the K+ stuff looks

I don't; Just prior to Resione I had been using the Phrozen RPG resin. I have not used 8K since I was modeling in T-scale, and switched to RPG since it was more flexible/less brittle than the 8K.

However, I'm attaching some comparisons of the raw Resione K+ and Phrozen RPG finish on Z scale 48' containers.

My (somewhat subjective) opinion is the Resione K+ is as good of a finish/detail as the 8K and the RPG resins (especially when you allow for primer/paint); the durability and detail seems as good as the RPG resin, and with less warping than either.

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