3D printing warp help

[Lemosteam]

Understood, I just think that heat is not the answer as it will only expand them further as compare to the legs and warp them more. 

[Dave V]

Understood, I just think that heat is not the answer as it will only expand them further as compare to the legs and warp them more.

I'm also wary of the heat gun. And the idea that a soldering iron couldn't melt resin... That warrants an experiment on the sprues I cut away. I remain skeptical, but we'll see.

I'm leaning heavily toward just replacing them with more realistic styrene braces.

[Scottl]

Resin is not plastic.  It will not readily melt, but of course you can burn it if you push the limits.  I've seen people make turnout jigs with resin and they serve well for the soldering of the rail to the ties.

[Lemosteam]

Yep, but it does get more brittle.  I have made lead casting molds from it.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=51669.msg703146#msg703146

[JeffB]

Resin is not plastic.  It will not readily melt, but of course you can burn it if you push the limits.  I've seen people make turnout jigs with resin and they serve well for the soldering of the rail to the ties.

Yes...  3D printing is great for making homemade Fast Tracks like turnout jigs.  They're not as durable as machined aluminum, but they do last quite a while.  Great for custom turnouts or if you just want to save a lot of money.

Jeff

[Scottl]

Thanks @JeffB , I think it was your fixtures I was recalling.

[John]

I would cut the cross braces out, and replace with some styrene strip .. easy peasy - once painted, no one will notice .. this can happen on long length thin parts -- sometimes it will clean up after drying ..

[Dave V]

I would cut the cross braces out, and replace with some styrene strip .. easy peasy - once painted, no one will notice .. this can happen on long length thin parts -- sometimes it will clean up after drying ..

Yeah, this was both my first instinct and my current instinct. Honestly? These would have been overlapping boards anyway, not some strange "X" shaped piece as it's printed.

[Sokramiketes]

Have we cut off the offending parts yet or are we still talking about it?   

Better modeling through peer pressure...

[Dave V]

Have we cut off the offending parts yet or are we still talking about it?   

Better modeling through peer pressure...

Only had a few minutes to work on it so I started painting the tower (primed it earlier).

Gonna trim and replace with styrene. The rest of the staircase is just barely in kilter so I don't want to make anything worse.

[peteski]

Make sure to use CA or epoxy adhesive as regular polystyrene cements will not adhere well to the 3D resin.

[robert3985]

Make sure to use CA or epoxy adhesive as regular polystyrene cements will not adhere well to the 3D resin.

OR...use canopy cement.  I'm finding that I'm doing most of my attachments with canopy cement, other attachments with UV activated CA (which is highly limiting my usage of smelly Accelerator when I don't need the capillary action of runny CA).

My favorite brand of "light activated" CA is JB Weld's 33301 Superweld, which comes with it's own tiny UV light.  Best price is directly from JB Weld here: https://www.jbtools.com/jb-weld-33301-total-repair-accelerated-instant-cure-super-glue-0-18-oz/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22207956140&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6a6ztMq7lAMVfy5ECB34GAYTEAQYBiABEgJL7vD_BwE

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Dave V]

Yeah, I've used enough 3D prints such that I'm aware of what glues work. Thanks, though!

[peteski]

OR...use canopy cement.  I'm finding that I'm doing most of my attachments with canopy cement, other attachments with UV activated CA (which is highly limiting my usage of smelly Accelerator when I don't need the capillary action of runny CA).

I guess you haven't tried Bob Smith Industries (BSI) brand accelerator.  I have been using it for years.  It has very low (almost strawbery-like) odor, and it is not as aggressive as the acetone-based accelerators like the Pacer Zip-Kicker.  I also apply it very sparingly using micro-brush (never spray it!). I also use BSI CA glues (including the more expensive low-odor Gold CA which does not fog clear parts.

[Dave V]

Just for schnitzengiggles, I tried the heat gun.  Fixed it, but definitely warped other things.