3d printed handrails

[Lackawannae8]

Does anyone here 3d print handrails for locomotives in a decently reliable material?  I am looking for help getting some made

[Jesse6669]

I have printed loco handrails in T scale.  These are quite short, however.  I used Phrozen RPG resin, which is very flexible.  I have not tried making any in Z, yet, although I want to try printing for my TrainMaster in Z.  But I expect etching will be the better way to go.   

Printing has some inherent issues--notably shrinking with really fine long lengths (like handrails) will cause warping/curling.  I have done some N-scale and Z-scale grab irons, that's about it.

[Erock482]

Phrozen RPG resin is pretty good, but lacks detail in my opinion. Especially in HO Scale.

I find a mix of 80% Phrozen 8K and 20% Sirya Tech Tenacious makes a good detailed resin that is alot more durable than the regular detail resins.

Might be an option to look into

[Lackawannae8]

Looking for someone who already does this and can help me out. Last thing I want to do is add another hobby inside a hobby. I wouldnt even know where to start on a 3d printer nor want to

[Jesse6669]

Phrozen RPG resin is pretty good, but lacks detail in my opinion. Especially in HO Scale.

I find a mix of 80% Phrozen 8K and 20% Sirya Tech Tenacious makes a good detailed resin that is alot more durable than the regular detail resins.

Might be an option to look into

I've done basically the same mix with Aqua 8K but used Onyx, but honestly it just got to be a bit more of a hassle mixing it and I couldn't really tell the difference in detail to the RPG resin. 

[AlwaysSolutions]

FWIW I use ANYCUBIC ABS-Like Resin Pro 2 and do handrails with it.  Has anyone used that resin and are able to compare it to other resins that work better?  I tend to stick with what works for me instead of experimenting with other resins, sometimes to my project's detriment.  The ABS-Like is flexible enough but not bullet proof.

Mike

[Scottl]

I printed bridge handrails with Anycubic ABS v2 and they worked well.  No breakage during support removal.

[robert3985]

FWIW I use ANYCUBIC ABS-Like Resin Pro 2 and do handrails with it.  Has anyone used that resin and are able to compare it to other resins that work better?  I tend to stick with what works for me instead of experimenting with other resins, sometimes to my project's detriment.  The ABS-Like is flexible enough but not bullet proof.

Mike

I also use ANYCUBIC ABS-Like Resin Pro 2 for my detail parts.  Although it can be snapped, it takes a deliberate and repetitive effort to do it and I'm talking about tiny cross sections.  One of the problems with brittle parts, at least using the AC ABS-Like resin I'm using is over-curing.  I've cut my curing/exposure time back to a mere fraction of the time I initially started out with and that helps the resin to retain its inherent flexibility...especially with tiny parts with thin cross-sections.

However, I have yet to design or print anything resembling engine handrails.  I'm working on caboose end-platform railings and ladders at the moment along with more 1st and 2nd gen diesel details, as well as present-day UP and Pennsy excursion E-Unit details.

I'm thinking that designing the rails so that when they shrink, they shrink to the correct length is probably one of the solutions along with part angle on the build plate, supports and curing time...as well as using a high quality resin.

Photo (1) Detail parts with tiny cross sections particularly the firecracker antenna support tube, the snowshield legs, and the legs of the horn bracket.  These are surprisingly durable: 


Photo (2) Detail parts (MU Hoses/Ditch Lights, Rotary Beacon, Cab Vent, Front Snowshield, Rear Snowshield, Firecracker Antenna) mounted on two otherwise undetailed Kato E-Units) emphasizing small cross-sections on several parts:


I think that we're pretty close to being able to print N-scale handrails that are finer than their injection-molded equivalents and having them be at least as durable and much more detailed with correct cross-sections.  I know that some of the work being published here with Z-scale cabooses and cars gives me great hope that larger N-scale items that are similar in cross-section but longer can be successfully printed without warpage and be durable also.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[dem34]

FDM can kinda do this too, but won't be as detailed as etched or DLP/SLA

But they would probably be better in durability than the Resins. So maybe an option for filler rolling stock.